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Issues with CV axle replacement

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Old 12-26-2011, 11:08 AM
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Issues with CV axle replacement

This is my first repair with the new to me 95 4runner. Had a bad boot on the CV joint and started taking things apart today. While trying to get the old axle out, after figuring I needed to remove the shock bolt, I noticed that while rotating the hub itself was NOT rotAting the axle. Anyway, got the old one out, and while putting the new one in, I again rotated the hub, and the Axle did NOT rotate with it. I still have the ADD hubs (they are not the manual ones I know). To me this does not seem correct. I have to stop for a bit to go get food for the kiddos, but will look at it again shortly. I don't think the hub should rotate without rotating the axles, for everything I've read about this system says the hub and axle are permanently locked together. Can some one verify or set me straight?
Thanks, Craig

PS, Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas.
Old 12-26-2011, 11:17 AM
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Do you still have the hub taken apart, or is it fully assembled and still not axle rotation?
Old 12-26-2011, 11:30 AM
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The only thing left is putting on the outer 6bolt flange with cone washers and gold
Cap. Other than that its completly together.
Old 12-26-2011, 11:32 AM
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Couldn't he have the auto locking hubs? I don't see how you could put together the add ones the wrong way... I mean if you got the bolt in the end of the axle it should be in at least correct enough to spin the axle when you rotate the hub... Check just towards the drivers side of the front diff on the front of it and see if you have 2 vaccum lines and a wires going into it. (could be 1 line and 1 wire, cant remember and too lazy to look lol) If you don't have that, then you don't have add and it is a different style hub.
Old 12-26-2011, 11:33 AM
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Ahh ya you got to put the flange in for it to work bud...
Old 12-26-2011, 11:33 AM
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Oops, if im not mistaken, that flange has splines,which would lock them together. Right?
Old 12-26-2011, 11:34 AM
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should have splines in there that grab the axle also you should have a bolt with a built on washer that goes in the end of the axle after the flange is put on but before the cap
Old 12-26-2011, 11:34 AM
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Of course, I was overthinkin the problem again... lol
Old 12-26-2011, 11:38 AM
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BTW at this point it would be very easy for you to swap to manual hubs and possibly gain a mpg or 2
Old 12-26-2011, 12:49 PM
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Yep, that was it.
Old 12-26-2011, 02:00 PM
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I am looking for a setof manual hubs. Im having 4wd problems also. I have searched and read every topic on '4wd not engaging', but have not been able to locate the problem yet. Dash light will come on between 2wd shift to 4wh, but goes off in 4h. Havent checked for a vaccum at the acuator, but (with a friend shifting) can hear the VCC (whatever is called) clicking back up between the battery and firewall. Anyway, im leaning towards bypassing the ADD altogether, therefore needing locking hubs. On another issue, im tryig to get the A/C evaporator out from under the dash to replace it. Just spent 2 hours trying to get the box out that encases it. Not enough time in the day. Had to put it back together.
Thanks for the replys,
Craig
Old 12-26-2011, 02:25 PM
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You could start it, lock it in 4 hi, kill it,put in first, jack the front up and try spinning the drivers side tire. the pass side should spin. if it don't spin at all, your add isn't locking in... I've never had any problems with mine, I actually have it on a switch and I have manual hubs. I have a my diff welded and like to turn every once and a while lol
Old 12-30-2011, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Leviticus6432
should have splines in there that grab the axle also you should have a bolt with a built on washer that goes in the end of the axle after the flange is put on but before the cap
I've tried a little bit of searching around but since every time I try the search bar it only uses my first word it makes things a little difficult. Anyway I just got done replacing my upper ball joint, Races, Seals, and Bearings and of course I'm almost done and I go and start putting that little brass bolt/washer set on and it snaps off inside the axle. My question is what is my best option to do from here? I know I can get a whole new CV axle and just throw it up there after obtaining a new bolt/washer. I also know I could get one of the extractor kits like QuikCenter and drill it out and again replace the bolt/washer. The thing I was really wondering is if I could run without it. I am rather ignorant about a lot of things so it seems to me that the bolt and washer seem to just limit travel of the Axle? If that's the case there's already that that snap ring back down the Axle a little that limits it's travel. I know that wouldn't have as much holding power though if I was to put it through some rough stuff. Just looking to see what some options are and see what ya'll think I should do. Thanks for any input everyone!

I have manual locking hubs not add. I'm trying to figure out how to add a picture right now so there would be no doubt what I'm talking about.

Oh and by the way I wasn't trying to hijack and conversation going on I just didn't want to start a thread about my issue since this one has already been started.

Last edited by DixieThunder; 12-30-2011 at 09:46 PM.
Old 12-30-2011, 09:50 PM
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It's the one that is labeled 18(185, 13)
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