Epic Ed

I have lights, a CB, and other electronic junk running straight to the battery. This was done on the "quick and cheap" when first installed just to get the project done, but now I'd really need to clean this mess up and do it right.

I can't seem to find an after market fuse box anywhere and I'm not sure exactly how to hook one up properly once I get it. Obviously, the power for all devices I want to route through it go to the fuse box, but what links me from the fuse box to the battery? If it's just one, larger gauge power line, then what am I really accomplishing?

I must be missing the physics of how this is supposed to work, so any input on where to find a good fuse box and how to hook it up would be great.

Thanks,

Ed

Tanto

you can check out http://www.4wheelparts.com/4wp/produ...e&man=PAINLESS and click on 7-CIRCUIT WEATHER RESISTANT FUSE BLOCK #70207

You can get a fusebox that has both always-on and key-on slots or one that has one or the other. For the always-on you wire one pair to the battery but for the key-on slots you piggyback a set of wires to an empty fuse. The box should have directions in it (like mine did).

I have not installed mine yet because I'm waiting for enough devices to warrant its use.

tc

I got mine at West Marine...

Erich_870

tc, where did you put yours? I bought one from a marine electronics store and I can't find a spot to fit it.

Erich

4x4Lamm

As someone who has oodles of lights and other electronic things on my truck, here is what I did:


It's hard to see, but there is a 100 amp circut breaker on the inside of the fender. This recives power from a SHORT 4 AWG cable coming off the Optima's side posts and sends power out via another 4 AG cable.



This 4 AWG cable goes to a junction stud near he barke master cylinder where it is split 8 ways into a Hella Aux. Fuse Block. I still need to clean up the wires going out of the fuse box.

The return pate is similer, I have 2 underhood junction studs connected with 4 AWG and 10 AWG cables to the Optima's negetive side post (soory no pic)

With this setup, every circut is protected with its own fuse of your choice and the main power line is protected with the circut breaker. Also, unlike a large in-line fuse, if something is going haywire, I can open the circut breaker in a moments notice with the push of a button.

I also have a setup for 4 fused relays for high amp draws, but also, sorry no pics.

Lamm

tc

Hard to describe - need to take a pic. Basically, I made a little "landing area" out of some sheet steel to go OVER some factory stuff on the passenger side near the firewall...

EDIT: Here's pix!

Corey

iTrader: (1)

Do ya ever check out the Tech section on the main www.yotatech.com page in orange text?

Two articles in there.
One from me
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f127/auxiliary-fuse-box-2nd-gen-4runner-75190/

One from Bob
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f127/fused-distribution-box-power-inverter-3rd-gen-4runner-75254/

Erich_870

Cool, that's the exact same box I have. I had the one like Corey's that I put in the same place he did ,centered on the firewall, but this new one is too big. I'll look into making its own "landing area" like you did

Erich

Epic Ed

Excellent input and photos from everyone -- much thanks. Cory, I didn't even think to look in the tech section -- thanks for the links. I may have a few questions once I get started, but right now I need to find a good fuse box. I'm favoring the Hella that 4x4Lamm is using. Any other recommendations for idiot-friendly fuse boxes?

Ed

4x4Lamm

If you order one, get it through rallylights.com (Susquehana Motorsports).

It is one of the few places that still values customers and offers great products at great prices. Also, if you ask for some Hella stickers, you will get more than you bargined for.

Lamm

shawn0890ss

ok dude you want to do exactly what i just diid last weekend same deal as you the PO had rverything just running to the batery so i needed to clean it up so it would only work with the ignition so i dont accendently leave something on and kill the battery.

now i did mine a little diffrent then you want, i did not use an auxilery fuse box. instead i used a 30 amp relay kit wired to the battery and tied into an existing fuse so it would only supply power when the ignitoin was on. then from their i ran the power from the relay to a switch block that i got from pepboys that uses a flat four button switch pad and a 4 terminal 40 amp switch block. i simply wired what i needed to the designated terminals for positive and negitive on the switch block and it was done. now i just turn the key and press a button and boom i have light then to turn it off just push the button again or remove the key.

Epic Ed

Yeah, I'm looking for the right combination of relays and switches right now. This has become a bit more of a project then originally intended (like they all are, right?) and I'm going to be running a dual battery set up. Alternator upgrade and the works. Should cost a lo...errrrr, I mean, should be fun.

Ed

tc

If you're doing this for 'wheeling and using a winch, make sure you specify the new alternator does full output at idle, otherwise it won't do you any good.

Lysmachia had someone rebuild hers that way - may want to shoot her an email or PM.

snap-on

check out http://www.12voltguy.com/

theres also a handy relay box you can can get from hella

Cebby

I found this waterproof fuse box at Susquehanna. It's by Hella - was a bit pricey, but it will look great and factory-like IMO.

drguitarum2005

i just picked up a 6 blade aix fuse block at my local auto parts store along with some 10 gauge wire and some 10 and 15 amp fuses. i also grabbed a specific relay and toggles for wiring up some back-up lights