Has anyone used this stuff?
http://www.custommachiningusa.com/Evans_NPG+.html

I never heard of it before today.

 

I just found a thread over on TTORA about it:
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum...ighlight=Evans

 

ive herd its good stuff well worth what it costs.

 

Sounds alot better than the water wetter trick, unlimited lifespan for a coolant is astonishing.

 

sounds pretty decent, seems to cover all the bases regarding problem areas. i looked around to check the price but couldnt find it listed anywhere. would someone post it up, please and thank you!

lee

 

Price information is available on the Evans Cooling web pae:
- https://www.evanscooling.com/catalog/C_SrdForm.htm

 

thank you mr brown, much appreciated!

lee

 

a lot of rx-7 guys use it to keep the heat down on the the rotarys(sp). If i remember correctly it is also a no pressure system so less wear and tear...

 

I've been using Evans for years now. You ought to be able to find it for sale outside of Evans' website. I've seen it for around $27/gall and if you buy from someone closer to where you live it'll be cheaper to ship. It's on ebay although you might get a better price elsewhere. I use Sierra brand coolant as a flush. It's propylene glycol which isn't toxic and is actually easier to clean up. NPG+ doesn't need any system mods. There's a lot of old information about bypasses and mods which started with their original coolant, NPG, which is thicker than NPG+. It's nice sitting on the grid waiting for my race without having to worry about overheating.

 

Thanks, was this is a motorcycle or car? From your user name I'd say a dirtbike lol. Yeah it would be real nice to climb a long 7% grade, in 100 deg heat, loaded down with gear, and not have to worry about the coolant boiling, I'll probably try it myself. I found some in Tulsa for a little over $30/ gal.

Thanks everyone for the input, I'll let you know how it goes.

 

Will this product signifigantly decrease your engine temps under normal driving conditions?? The reason I am asking is that engines are designed to run most effecient at certain temperatures. If it runs too hot your losing efficeincy and power, and if it runs too cold, the same happens. I could see the benfit of this product to help the devestating effects of over heating, but, as long as you can still keep the coolant temps high enough to have the engine run effeciently.

 

No, it won't decrease the normal operating temp. It just raises the safe temp limit higher than a water based coolant can handle without boiling. What it would do is signifigantly lower the hot spots on the head that result from a normal water based coolant boiling when running above the normal operating temps.

 

I forgot about the thing called a "Thermostat". Duh!!

 

If I remember correctly, many engine sensors will not work correctly if there is no water in the engine coolant. This is why it is not recommended to run straight anti-freeze in the cooling system. Does this product overcome this issue?

 

Anti-freeze doesn't work as well without water in it, that's why it isn't recommended.

As for engine sensors not working, which one? The only sensor (that I can think of) that checks the engine coolant is the coolant temperature sensor, and I can't think of any reasons why it wouldn't work...

 

Haven't heard of it being an issue.

 

I can't think of any reason either Brian.

 

There was a problem, as I recall, with some Honda, and I think other manufacturers, some 5-10 years ago with some sensors that directly read the water temp in the cooling system. If there wasn't at least a 60/40 mix of anti-freese/water, they wouldn't read properly. I can't remember exactly which sensors, but I'm sure there were more than just the sensor for the water temp gauge. (The other sensors may have been for emissions control) This problems may very well have been fixed in the newer vehicles, and is no longer an issue, I just don't know for sure.

 

No, as mt_goat mention.
If your cooling system is in good shape than you're banging up against the thermostat.





Fred

 

I talked to Tom at Evans (888) 990-2665 and he was very helpful. He said the website is a little out of date on some things and they need to redo it.

They now recommend flushing out all the water-based coolant (especially the long lasting red coolants like the Toyota coolant) from the whole system with water until it runs clear and using a flush product to complete this cleansing of the system.

Run it up to temp with the flush chemicals and drain again and flush with plain water again to remove the flush chemicals (I'd use distilled water for this last step at the very least) and don't forget to include the heater core in this flushing by turning the heater lever to max heat.

Then drain completely by opening all the block drains (the 5VZ only has one by the passinger side motor mount), the radiator drain, lower radiator hose and t-stat, also get the water out of the heater core by gently blowing compressed air into the heater hose or gently sucking with a shop vac. Then close the block drains and (with the t-stat out) jack up the rear of the vehicle as high as possible so the water in the block drains to the front of the block and out the t-stat hole and pour in the Evans prep into the upper radiator hose openning at the top. He said you will see the water come out first because the prep is heaver than water it will displace the water in the low spots and then you'll see the water flow start changing over to the Evans prep because it looks slightly different. At that point you can start catching the prep that comes out in a very clean container and recycle it for later use by boiling off the water in a pot on the BBQ grill.

I hear you can also use the prep to get the remaining water out of the heater core by pouring it into the heater hose. One gal of prep should be enough to do the whole system according to Tom. IIRC he said you want there to be no more than 5% water in the system.

There is a tester to determine the % of water in the coolant (if you're really anal) and I suppose if the % was too high you could also drain all the coolant out into a clean container and boil off the water in a big pot on the BBQ. One of those deep fryers for turkeys might work for that just make sure to clean the pot out real good (before and after lol) BTW Evans coolant is non-toxic but I wouldn't want to try it as a turkey seasoning.

At that point you should be good to go and just add the Evans coolant. The prep remaining in the system is fine because its actually a formulation of their racing coolant. He said the older water-based coolants are a contaminate to the system and cause problems down the road if mixed or left in the system.

He said if you're running a copper/brass radiator with the small 3/8" tubes for the cores there may be a small increase in coolant temps over the water-based coolants (5-10 degress) because the Evans coolant is slightly thicker than a water-based coolant and it doesn't flow through the small cores as well. It works great in the newer aluminum radiators because they use the high-flow 1" or bigger tubes.

The stuff lasts a long time, I've heard anywhere from 100,000-500,000 miles, although it will discolor with use, that doesn't hurt it. Do as directed and you'll never boil-over again.

I'm placing an order now I'll let you know in a few weeks. I'll probably try it first with my copper/brass radiator but I think I see an aluminum radiator somewhere in my future.