toyota_junkie505

I have looked through a bunch of previous threads to see if i could figure out my problem but couldn find anything exacly the same. I have a SAS on my 90 pickup and just upgraded from the solid rotor to vented rotors with the larger calipers, and now my pedal is very spongy so i started to bleed them all, but i think i let it run dry. So i bled the master, but still no brakes. I bought a new master because thats what it seemed like to me, but after bench bleeding and bleeding the master, drums, calipers, and lspv. But now when i drive it around it feels like there is no front brakes. The pedal goes to the floor right away very easy but the last inch will lock up the rear drums... maybe another bad master or do i just need to keep bleeding? Another suggestion a friend had was a booster? i dont think so.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Did you upgrade the master cylinder? Any leaks?

You probably just don't have all the air out of your lines.

:wabbit2:

blake.nemitz

on mice after hooking up the rear drums after the leaf conversion i had no brakes and had to pump the pedal to get them to work, there was no air in the line and was caused by the shoes needing adjusted. i adjusted the shoes now its gravy

toyota_junkie505

I bled the fronts today for 30 mins a piece before work to no avail. Still only have rear brakes. I already have a new master cylinder but it does the same thing. A co worker suggested air trapped in the calipers today at work, so today i will try to take the calipers off and press the cyliders back in and gravity bleed the system again and i think that will probably be it. These are, after all, brand new napa (never any parts available) calipers wich had no fliud in them off the shelf, so there could just be piles of air behind each piston potentailly? what do you guys think? Ill repost the results later.

toyota_junkie505

OK... took the master off to see if it was leaking, dint see anything. Then i bench bled the master, installed the master, bled the master on the truck, bled PR, DR, PF, DF, LSPV, and now they work but the first 3 to 4 inches of the peadal is spongey. Im gonna bleed it like 2 or 3 more times to see if it gets even better but i will wait till tomorow, but for now i guess i just needed to keep bleeding in that order.

oldskoolstang

Have you bled the brake equalizer valve thing that is in the rear of the truck on the passenger side above the rear end? I had a similar problem with my '86 turbo truck and after replacing the master cylinder and nothing changed I began to bleed the equalizer valve and after a couple times of bleeding it I had perfectly working brakes again.....

toyota_junkie505

I finally Got the brakes to work like they should!!! It took 6 times of bleeding the master cylinder lines, then PR, DR, PF, DF, LSPV bleeders to get them firm to the first touch. I was a little confused at first because i didnt really see any air come out of the system when i was bleeding. Also i wanted to say that i found opening the bleeders as fast as possible but also letting out as much fluid as possible the most effective. Also do not make the same mistake i did and make sure your calipers are filled to the top with brake fluid before instalation. Following is pictures of my brake upgrade to vented rotors if anyone is wondering, can also be seen on my buildup page.

toyota_junkie505

These are all of the parts before they went on the truck. To my surprise i couldn find the right rotors from anywhere in town, which is odd since these are found on a huge variety of toyotas. The only place that had them was trailgear.



This is what they look like on my solid front axle. These brakes work very well i am very satisfied with the napa eclipse calipers.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I don`t know how many calipers I changed over the years but I have never had a problem with bleeding these brakes.

Also living in the Greater Salt belt I have never bled the LSPV to do so would mean to replace it and all the lines attached to it



I am wondering did you have a bleeder that you were not getting tight no loss of fluid but it kept sucking in air.

Just curious what do you use to bleed your brakes??

angrydogtattoo

I think you put the calipers on the wrong side, the bleeders should be above the line not below, you need the air to be able to flow up and out, I would think that is why it took so long to bleed all the air out.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I just noticed that the caliper was on the wrong side also.

That would cause alot of grief when attempting to bleed them.

Till now I didn`t know you could get them on the wrong side

Xeo

Yup your calipers are up side down/ on the wrong side which means you will never fully get all the air out...trust me i had a co-worker do the same thing at work except it was on a dodge ram dually i think... anyways he had the calipers upside down and spent at least an hour trying to bleed em until another tech walked by and suggested he had the calipers upside down.

angrydogtattoo

I just replaced my brakes all around, front and back with all new (rebuilt) equipment and a new master Cylinder, the guy at the counter pulled one caliper out and used a sharpie to mark the passenger side for me. I noticed when i got home to put them on that it was also stamped into the caliper from the factory, Right and Left. I'm not sure where they got the core form or if they did that for every year, but mine were. I remember reading on here somewhere that you could put them on backwards, that would make for a very hard time to bleed them.

The only problem that I ran into was that the MC was bad and that I had a weak peddle, it made the passenger side wear indicator rub as it would apply pressure but not release it, I thought the flex line was bad and would have replaced it, (still might) but wanted to get the peddle straighten out first.

I bought this truck not running and rebuilt the whole front end, I wasn't sure what the PO had done so after I bled them out twice (missed the lspv first time) and still didn't have a good feel I replaced the MC, I need to adjust the parking brake adjusters and it will be 100%. I have an automatic and my bell pieces are frozen, I will fix those when it warms up a touch, for now just having good brake is enough and if I need to crawl under and adjust I can do that for a month or so.