I ordered some new ball joints, and I'm looking the tools I'll need. Just the lower ball joints on a 98 4wd Tacoma. Looks like a pickle fork would work, since it doesn't matter if it damages the old ball joint, since it's getting thrown away.

But are there benefits to a seperator instead of a pickle fork? What's the process for getting the ball joint back into the tie rod? I may buy the tools, or rent. Haven't decided yet...

Just bought this truck and I'm getting to know it. Will also be doing spark plugs, wires, valve cover gaskets along with pcv, intake plenum gaskets, cam gaskets. And eventually the timing belt if I decide I'm up for it. So damn expensive to have a shop do it.

Thanks.

 

ball joint back into tie rod? not sure if that's a thing buddy. but if you meen ball joint back into hub assembley or control arm the new ones will slip right in and then you tighten with a wrench. dirt simple.

i like seperators because they are more graceful than the pickle forks, but pickle forks can be much quicker when you get the feel for them.

if this is your first time use the separator if available. i'm pretty sure harbor frieght has a nice set for like $45. on these tiny trucks they're all you need.

 

also, i'm pretty experienced and i cursed a crap load doing my 87's oem ones. mind u it was used as a plow truck so everything was WAY rustier than normal.

i'd soak it will all the pb blaster you can find for at least a couple hours, if not longer, before you attempt.

 

Jeez..... I just use a BFH, aim and launch. Target separates within three strikes.

 

I use both, start with pickle fork and if it won't budge after a few blows switch to the jaw puller. Just did the ball joints, tie rods and idler on my 75 last week and they were the originals from 40yrs ago, pretty darn stuck on there. Simply re-seat the connection by bolting on the new part.

 

Ok. Well you can tell by the questions I ask that I haven't done this before. I guess I figured if something needs to be pried out with a separator or big hammer, then when you put in the new one, you'd need to "press" it in...Like getting a bearing off and back on. But I'm sure when I have it in my hands it'll make sense.

Since I figure I'll be doing more of this stuff, I bought a kit with 4 or 5 different front end specialty tools. I'm more into working smarter rather than harder these days

 

I've never done it either and I'm curious what size separator you'll end up needing and if it will be the same size for a 1991 2WD truck.
I really don't like beating and banging on parts because it marks them up. I know, who's looking at them anyhow? They'll be there in the back of my mind...

 

This video is a good one for the future. However I am posting the video for another method of dealing with tie-rod ends. Enjoy the entire video however you may skip to 11 minutes to see how he deals with the tie-rods. I have done this many times and it has worked every time (perfect for trail fixes).
[YOUTUBE] [/YOUTUBE]

 

Just finished this job. I bought this kit, figuring I'll be doing more of this stuff and like the idea of these tools over hammering on stuff. To each their own.




And this is the one I used for the tie rod end and the lower ball joint. Worked great.

 

Also, it's funny that I wasn't worried at all about replacing my shocks, but I was intimidated by the lower ball joint job. I've done shocks before, but never any front end work, and separating these kinds of joints always scared me.

Well...rear shocks were no problem. Fronts were a serious pain. It would be easy for me now that I've done it, but it took a lot of time and frustration and bleeding knuckles to get the front shocks in.

The lower ball joints, on the other hand, were cake. This is a non-rusty truck, with the bolts soaked for days in PB Blaster. But just follwing the directions in my Chilton manual, it was just as easy as following the steps, 1, 2, 3.

Each side took an hour, with me refering back to the manual often, making sure I wasn't screwing something up. Only "issue" I ran into was the bolt on the driver side tie rod end spinning when I tried to tighten the nut back down on it. A quick google search was all it took to solve that.

I hear the upper bjs are quite a bit more of a pain. But aside from any rust issues you might have, the lower bjs on these first gen Tacomas, which are prone to catastrophic failure, are pretty darn simple to replace.

 

The pic doesn't show for me so I have no idea what kit ya bought lol
You should always list the manufacturer and part number either with a pic or just the numbers. You end up with no information when the link goes bad, or doesn't work from the start.

 

Huh...I just started posting pics taken with my ipad instead of the old traditional digital camera photo uploaded to my computer, then uploaded to the site, then posted in a thread...thought I found an easier way! Crap.

OTC Tie Rod/Inner Bearing Race Puller, #7503 is what I used. Not sure if 2wd would be different. There's a similar shaped tool, just smaller, in the kit. #6296 Pitman Arm/Tie Rod End Puller that might work for you, too. But at least on my truck, OTC 7503 did the job.