4 bad alternators in a row please help
#1
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From: appleton wisconsin
4 bad alternators in a row please help
I have done a om617 convertion in my 85 4runne
I have had 4 bad now.
1st bearing reman
2nd bad out of box reman
3 regulator reman
4 regulator all new
All cs130 case GM 1 wire
All have went out in 100_200 miles
I'm stumped
All new wires??????
I have had 4 bad now.
1st bearing reman
2nd bad out of box reman
3 regulator reman
4 regulator all new
All cs130 case GM 1 wire
All have went out in 100_200 miles
I'm stumped
All new wires??????
#2
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Where are you getting your Alternators???
A run of really bad luck.
Did you upgrade all the cables?? most important the ground cables??
loose connections??
Battery up to full charge and in good condition??
A run of really bad luck.
Did you upgrade all the cables?? most important the ground cables??
loose connections??
Battery up to full charge and in good condition??
#3
I see 3 are remanufactured. Are they a good quality brand? On the bad bearing, are you overtightening? May not necessarily be the brands fualt but wouldnt eliminate it.
Regulator, I feel Wyoming9 has you pointed in the right direction. Are you getting them at the same store, which I am guessing you are for the warranty. I might would eat the cost and take one to a professional builder. They are getting harder to find, but if you ask around and can find an old timer who still does these rebuilds and it normally will far out last any reman. If you are still having problems, I think you have a wiring issue. I have been in your shoes before and it was poor quality parts only it was on a starter.
Regulator, I feel Wyoming9 has you pointed in the right direction. Are you getting them at the same store, which I am guessing you are for the warranty. I might would eat the cost and take one to a professional builder. They are getting harder to find, but if you ask around and can find an old timer who still does these rebuilds and it normally will far out last any reman. If you are still having problems, I think you have a wiring issue. I have been in your shoes before and it was poor quality parts only it was on a starter.
Last edited by Terrys87; 08-22-2012 at 02:23 AM.
#4
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From: appleton wisconsin
Nationwide auto parts store’
All new wiring.
Alternator power to battery.
Alternator ground to battery, ground to block .
Yes battery is fully charged and tested in and out of 4Runner.
and no I am not over tightening the belt.
I have read many stories of problems with GM 1 wire alternators.
As for heat I have and the part store have checked the temp of the alternator on the 4Runner after a 40 mile run.
The temp was at 137-140 degrees
I have checked all the stock wiring. 3 times for voltage drop and resistance. But I am going to check for a 4th.
The only other thing I can think of is.
Since the diesel engine takes no voltage while running and the only draw is the brake lights and blinkers. Is it possible that since the is no draw in power that the alternator somehow even at a low or no charge draw is back feeding when the battery gets full ????
All new wiring.
Alternator power to battery.
Alternator ground to battery, ground to block .
Yes battery is fully charged and tested in and out of 4Runner.
and no I am not over tightening the belt.
I have read many stories of problems with GM 1 wire alternators.
As for heat I have and the part store have checked the temp of the alternator on the 4Runner after a 40 mile run.
The temp was at 137-140 degrees
I have checked all the stock wiring. 3 times for voltage drop and resistance. But I am going to check for a 4th.
The only other thing I can think of is.
Since the diesel engine takes no voltage while running and the only draw is the brake lights and blinkers. Is it possible that since the is no draw in power that the alternator somehow even at a low or no charge draw is back feeding when the battery gets full ????
#6
Some mulit-meters can be set up to record the maximum voltage of a connection or system and hold it on the screen. Maybe you could hook one up to the battery terminals and then drive it around a bit. After that take a look at what the reading on the screen is. That number would be the highest ammount of VDC that was available. I had a truck with a shorted wire one time. It was next to impossible to find. Well I kept going through headlights, alternators, and regulators. It would run for a while but always end up burning up the above listed items. Running it down was a real PITA. We were trying to see how much voltage was being created at peek. It was getting over 19.5 VDC!! The regulator would burn up first then it would go on to other things.
Last edited by Stu Pidasso; 08-22-2012 at 04:38 AM.
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#8
I once had a Powerstroke truck that I was working on for a bad alternator, it went through 3 alternators from Napa that were reman before a OEM one fixed it. The alternators each had different problems, I never have good luck with Napa reman alternators and starters, every time I have to do it at least twice. I even made a post about it
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...a-junk-245724/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...a-junk-245724/
#9
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From: appleton wisconsin
Here is what I found.
the GM 10-SI alternator has a basic cooling fan and small holes in the back for air to pass.
Most coming amps where 37-70 AMP this is a stock gm alternator.
In 1983 GM discontinue the 10-SI and started to make the 12-SI
The biggest difference is the cooling fan and the rear holes in the back.
Also has a high performance fan as well
The 12-SI was offered in amp 56-94
So I am thinking that heat is an issue? Due to it being on the same side as the turbo.
also an alternator fan pulls air into the back to front it’s a vacuum not pushing air.
A good read on pirate
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Wiring/Part2/
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Wiring/Part2/
the GM 10-SI alternator has a basic cooling fan and small holes in the back for air to pass.
Most coming amps where 37-70 AMP this is a stock gm alternator.
In 1983 GM discontinue the 10-SI and started to make the 12-SI
The biggest difference is the cooling fan and the rear holes in the back.
Also has a high performance fan as well
The 12-SI was offered in amp 56-94
So I am thinking that heat is an issue? Due to it being on the same side as the turbo.
also an alternator fan pulls air into the back to front it’s a vacuum not pushing air.
A good read on pirate
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Wiring/Part2/
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Wiring/Part2/
#10
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From: appleton wisconsin
On my 85 4runner stock plug can anyone tell me what the wires are for
on the 3 plug 3 wires red,white,yellow.
And one main one for the alternator.
I am ditchign the GM 1 wire andgoint a 12-si GM 3 wire
on the 3 plug 3 wires red,white,yellow.
And one main one for the alternator.
I am ditchign the GM 1 wire andgoint a 12-si GM 3 wire
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