Duckie

Despite advice to go ahead and change the timing chain, I waited and it skipped one or more teeth. Luckily it wasn't while I was driving, but I'm probably going to pull the head just to be sure I don't have any bent valves. Yesterday I went ahead and drained the oil and coolant, and removed the radiator and the intake tubing. I have to buy a 19mm impact socket today and get that crank bolt broken, and hopefully get to remove the valve cover today.

One positive is that I did do a timing chain on a 22re in one of my auto classes, and I have the handout with step by step instructions, as well as 4crawlers site. I'll keep posted on my progress.

justin_4runner

are u pulling it just to make sure u didnt bend a valve? or is there other reasons to pulling it? i would reset the chain or replace and then try a compression test, then spend all the time and money pulling it and nothing being bent, one thing u also could do if u want is to use a compression tester hose and fill each cylinder with air, if a valve is leaking u will hear the air blowing by, just have to make sure its on a compression stroke on each cylinder as u do it.

Duckie

Thanks for the advice, I didn't even think about a compression test. Before I had realized my timing was off, I was cranking the engine and it was sluggish. Once I got it started it was running like crap, but wasn't making any noise. I drove it about 50ft, never got above 5mph, and the noise started variable with rpm. I wasnt sure if it was piston/valve contact, or just the chain slapping around all hard.

The strangest thing about the whole thing is that I never had any obvious chain slap noise before this happened.

justin_4runner

so how do u know it skipped a tooth for sure? and if it skipped one tooth i dont think u would have contact valve to piston, if it was me i would replace the belt and all guilds and tensionors and test,

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

Hey Duckie-
Back when I lived in Tucson at Pantano/Speedway Haystack apartments....my 84 longbed Toyota decided to slip a tooth on the timing sprocket when I went to start it up. It still ran but had no power. I checked it with a timing light and it was off at least 30 degrees retarded on the crank timing marks. I put a new chain in right there in the apartment parking lot. You have to make it look like you're not doing anything major to pull that kind of thing off....nothing ever on the pavement and everything hidden in the bed Mine used to make a loud rattle during start-up and I guess that was the loose chain. As I recall, the plastic tensioner guide was all busted up so that will do it.

By the way, I've been trying to get in touch with you....I was impressed with your simple rear ZUK coil installation....I think you were the 1st one to ever cut the upper steel stoppers so short and it worked so good for you. How are the coils doing for you? I see you have some real upgrade plans according to your signature.....does that mean you will outgrow the coils?...maybe convert the rear into a flex monster or perhaps Chevies?
ZUK

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...thread-208532/

justin_4runner

your the one im always looking for, out in my parking lot working on cars...

but no i work at an apartment complex and i feel if i cant see u doing the work and there is no mess i wont say anything but if i see a mess and oil everywhere i then let them know and if they dont clean up i call in the tow truck to take it out of there.

Duckie

Zuk, I don't think I'm the first, but your website has been a lot of help. If you update it at all, feel free to use my pictures.

As for my issue, my chain definatly skipped a tooth. I pulled the oil pan and found most of my drivers side guide in a million pieces. When I referenced the key mark on the crank to the silver link, it was a tooth off. I've already emailed engnbldr so I just have to order the stuff and get it all put back in. Then I'll have to run a compression test just to be safe.

Duckie

Soupy timing guide mess at the bottom of my oil pan.



I'm glad I have the 4" lift, it sounds like a pita to drop the diff for clearance. I actually still had the remove the sump to get the pan out.