rcm

What is the correct degree thermostat for a 93
22r engine?I have checked and it shows 160,170,180,and
a 190 through orielly auto.Not really having a problem
other than it takes awhile to come up to temp.Not sure what is in there now.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

just get one at the dealer. not much more price wise and better part imo. I think it's right around 185-190 if i'm not mistaken. 88*C=190*F. IIRC 180*F is for the 22R and the 22RET.



Best stat is a Factory 2 stage Thermostat !!

Question: “Why does my engine temp go all the way up to the red before it comes back down to the middle of the gauge after I start it up in the morning. It only does this when the engine is cold and once it warms up it seems to operate normally. Could it be as simple as a stuck thermostat?”

Answer: (From Roger Brown’s Web Site - http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...tml#Thermostat)

“What happens on the 22R and 22RE engine, when the coolant goes through the heater core it gets cooled off enough that when it gets dumped back in on top of the t-stat it shuts it. Therefore the temperature in the engine continues to go up. The t-stat that I have mentioned has two valves in it, one at the regular temp. and one smaller on at a cooler temp. If the cool water shuts the big one, the smaller one stays open. All this happens because of the lack of a by-pass hose, which on other systems, keeps hot coolant running on the t-stat.”

You can get the two-stage thermostat mentioned above from your local Toyota Dealer.
Part Number: #90916-03070
copy and pasted from mud.

snobdds

Bravo Bravo...

rcm

thanks guys..Is it neccessary to have the two stage for the 22re or just a better
upgrade?

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

not neccesary but a good idea. If you're replacing it it wouldn't hurt but only improve your cooling system in relation to possible temp over shoot. In other words if you're going to the dealer you may as well kill one bird and another possible bird while you're there.

BMcEL

It's necessary only if you don't want to deal with the problem Mighty described above.

fissure333

i splurged and purchased the dual stage from the stealership. i've got to pull it back out and spit on it a little. it appears that it's sticking and over flowing the over flow tank. I've read that they are a little sticky when new. looks like i'm going to have to sit down with some whiskey and figure out how to break her in. maybe a little KY and some Barry White playing in the background. after the truck is warm and shut off the frigger opens up and sucks some coolant back in. my wife hates the maintenance my truck burdens me with.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Never had any trouble with mine sticking. Might try heating up a pot of water on the stove and drop the t-stat in there with a candy thermometer. Cycle it a few times and see how it opens and closes. If it is not opening properly, take it back and see if you can get a working one. I have had issues with other brand t-stats not working right out of the box and I always test new ones (along with the old one) to see how they are working prior to installation.

fissure333

i'm going to dig into it tonight. maybe one of the easiest things to do next to adding oil. i'll probably look for the sticky spot and break out the jewelers files and touch it up. agreed to check before install.
i've searched every body and read all the posts about burping. i can hear the h20 sloshing around in the heater core. i put it on a 45 degree slant, but still can't seem to get rid of that obnoxious air pocket. yes heater on high, cold start lots of fluid, cap off, ect...

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Well, you might consider doing a pressure test on the cooling system to see if there is either a leak letting in air or if there is a combustion chamber leak forcing exhaust gas into the cooling system. The whooshing/sloshing sound in the heater core was always a sign on my 22RE of a head gasket leak, that and coolant filling the overflow bottle under high engine loads.

fissure333

this all started a couple weeks ago when i installed the new turd-mo-stat. pretty sure it's the culprit.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Easy enough to pull and test it. Could be a rough or tight spot on the valve preventing it from opening all the way.

fissure333

that's what i'm thinking too. i'm going to stop by a buddies and borrow his leak down tester just for fun. i've got to change out my chain tensioner soon too. i think i got a piece of crud in the oiler hole and it's giving me some chatter. ted (engnbldr) gave me a new one. he's only 30 min or so away. handy.

fissure333

leaky water pump gasket between the timing cover and block. fun, fun, fun.

WHAHAHAJR

Funny now that I think of it I was getting a sloshing sound which started a couple weeks before my head gasket blew.

snobdds

But it's so easy easy easy....