Alright well that would explain why there wasn't an actual pump in the tank xD
I'll follow the tube connected to it and see where it goes.
Here's a close up on that little box- https://www.dropbox.com/s/kriujsfkkl...%20AM.jpg?dl=0
I think they used a mechanical pump on carbed engines? If that's the case then I don't have one and I'll have to purchase one.
Aha yea, my dad was kind of cheap when it came to stuff like this so he tried to mickey mouse everything. So does my grandpa lol

 

this says that 89620-35160 is for efi only, which makes sense: http://www.22rte-trucks.com/simplema...hp?topic=399.0

22r photo, notice the vacuum advance bell module on the distributor, and the mechanical fuel pump hanging off of the side of the head, right beside the "22r" logo: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...uestion-74993/

i guess that putting a mechanical fuel pump on it would eliminate certain things, but i'd suggest looking up some other 22r pics to see how it's hooked up... be sure and replace all of the rubber fuel hose, if it cracks or leaks you'll be bummed.

since the cor/computer/ignition box are still being used to run the ignition, i'd first ask if the cor is interfering with the ignition in any way... the electric fuel pump that's in there fires briefly, right? you should be able to feel it vibrating when it's running, it may still be usable, follow the hot wire for the pump back, see where it goes.

 

So I'd have to find one that's for a carbed engine rather than an EFI? Could that be what's causing the problems?
I'll look for some pictures of it hooked up.
Which pump are we talking about? The one under the hood or the one in the tank? I'm fairly certain both still work. The one in the tank turns on immediately with the key while it's jumped. I know that gas goes through the one under the hood because the tube was cracked and it spewed gas everywhere.
I'll go outside and check in a bit. Just got home.

 

i already linked a photo of the factory mechanical fuel pump for the older 22r.

so it has two electric fuel pumps??? lol, you've got to be kidding

confirm that the longer silver tube in the engine compartment is hooked up electrically, does it have wires running from it? remember that the other short silver tube should be a fuel filter, it shouldn't be wired up to anything.

 

Oh woops sorry, didnt see it linked to an image.
It has to be. I can't see any other way he could of ran it without a pump in the tank. I'll go and check right now though.

 

Mmmmmk.
So, there is 1 wire into the longer silver tube- https://www.dropbox.com/s/zp9fv27e0m...%20PM.jpg?dl=0
The wire starts from here https://www.dropbox.com/s/vwqtnx3fy9...%20PM.jpg?dl=0
And then splices into 2 wires- https://www.dropbox.com/s/lnp2lhm4zp...%20PM.jpg?dl=0
1 wire goes to the silver tube, and then the other goes to the choke-https://www.dropbox.com/s/w2ece9z95c90g5w/Photo%202016-04-13%2C%205%2003%2030%20PM.jpg?dl=0
Also, not sure if this is important or not but this tube is not connected to anything-https://www.dropbox.com/s/zs87q1ztker5io1/Photo%202016-04-13%2C%205%2004%2021%20PM.jpg?dl=0

 

that wire goes from the fuel pump, it looks like it's tied into the windshield wiper wiring, test it with your voltmeter to see if it has voltage, with the key both on and off.

i don't know what that wire is hooked up to?

that long silver tube says "carter" on it, it's an electric fuel pump... the wire to the choke indicates that it's an electric choke, make sure that's working when the engine is first started.

it looks like it's teed into some vacuum line? if it's sucking vacuum when the engine is running, it's going to be hard to keep the motor running right.

this is a huge mess, lol... bare wire with voltage on it, laying around the engine compartment, is an invitation to disaster.

 

The wire that gets spliced is connected to the windshield wiper mortar. Then the 2 wires connect to the long silver tube and the electric choke.
The electric choke works fine because the engine will only start when those wires are connected, so I'm assuming it's working properly.
Where should that tube be connected?
I'll put some of those clamps to connect the wires instead of just twisting them xD I was going to do that anyway.
So how do I get the pump under the hood to turn on? Could it not be turning on because there is only 1 wire connected to it? (I think it's missing the ground wire) I'll use a multimeter to see if there's power going to it.

 

Alright so I just about killed my self and blew the truck up, but I got the pump under the hood to turn on when I turn the key. But now It wont stay running for more than a few seconds. once it dies it wont start for about 10-15 min. I think it's getting flooded. I put new clamps on the wire for the choke (so no more bare wires).
I thought maybe I clamped them wrong but I'd imagine it would be pretty hard to mess that up. Even more considering it's just 1 wire connected to 2 other small chunks of wire (I dont think it matters if the 2 wires are touching in the clamp?)
This makes a lot of sense now. I'm pretty sure my dad took the pump out of the tank and put it under the hood.
Any ideas on why it's flooding? Or is it even flooding?

 

be careful, if there is too much gas in the carb, maybe it's overflowing, or something goes wrong, there could be fire blowing back out the top of the carb... got a fire extinguisher anywhere nearby?

i can't tell much about the wiring except that it needs to be hooked up the same way that the factory did it with the carbed toyotas, and in the long run, if you get it running those clamps need to all be removed, they fray and break the wire, and they let moisture in, that corrodes the wire.

the silver carter pump he's using there is low pressure for carbs, he couldn't use the pump that was in the tank because it's high pressure for efi, so that makes sense.

1)the fuel pump needs to be pumping gas all the time, or the truck won't run, can you feel it vibrating when the engine won't start? or did the truck die because the pump quit working?
2)the choke plate should close when the key is turned on, and the engine is cold.
3)with the ENGINE TURNED OFF, KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION, you should be able to look down into the carb, and see it squirt fuel when you move the accelerator cable... that way you know that it has plenty of gas in the bowl of the carb.

 

How much gas should be in the carb? There's a little in there.
I can hear the pump running all the time (as long as I have the key on)
I'll try 3 right now and see what happens. If the electric choke isnt working, is there a way to manually do it? I've seen people stick a screw driver down there to keep it open, because right now it's not opening at all.

 

I pumped some gas in there and it started for a split second. I pumped the gas and shoved a wrench in the choke valve things and it ran for about 8 seconds (sounds a lot better btw, and the RPM went up on it's own a lot more than with the previous pump).
So, now it's just figuring out why it's not firing up

 

if the choke is closed too far, and/or won't open up, it's a problem, you could try wiring it open for these troubleshooting steps.

the choke is generally needed only when the engine is cold, to help starting and initial driving... if the weather is warm you can sometimes flutter the gas pedal to start the car with the choke wired open, which squirts fuel into the engine(#3 check should have confirmed that you can see fuel squirting from the carb down into the intake manifold, may need a flashlight).

too much pumping of the gas pedal can flood the intake, tho, in which case you hold the gas pedal down on the floor while cranking the engine over, that sucks air in, that flushes the gasoline out into the exhaust.

 

Yeah, I could see the gas being squirted in. Not so much anymore though.
So, I think I have come to the conclusion that the gas isnt getting into the carb. I tried to blow through the tube that the fuel line connects to on the carburetor and I couldn't get any air through (a very small amount at times, which explains why it stays running for about 10 seconds every once in awhile). So If I can't get any air through then I'd assume the gas isnt getting through either.
My grandpa said that there should be some sort of screen or filter in the carburetor so I'm going to take the top off and see.

 

AHHA
I GOT IT.
I opened the top of the carburetor, everything was moving just fine but I still couldnt blow air through, so I took the float valve apart and pulled this out of one of the tube/valve things: https://www.dropbox.com/s/x95kdhg75y...%20PM.jpg?dl=0
It's some sort of rubber.
I think the reason why it was running (but horrible) when I had the other fuel pump going is because like you said, the pump in the tank has higher pressure than the one meant for a carbed engine. So it was able to push a bit of gas through that blockage while the lower pressured pump couldn't.
Drove it around the property for a bit and it ran pretty decent. Didnt stall, idled kind of rough/weak but didnt quit. I'm going to tweak a few things and fix the wiring.
Pretty happy

 

i don't know what that piece is, but congrats on getting it running!