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Replaced Circuit Opening Relay now no power at all? Please help!

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Old 03-28-2016 | 08:38 PM
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Replaced Circuit Opening Relay now no power at all? Please help!

Hey guys!
So, I'm kind of new to all of this. Turning 17 in April so I figured I'd try to get my dads old 4Runner going that has been sitting in our shed for close to 12 years.
Keep in mind that I'm a pretty big newb when it comes to stuff like this. I've never done anything this big, but I think I'm doing pretty good so far.

Anyways, I had to replace the fuel pump, starter, and slave cylinder. Also had to replace a few hoses but all in all I got it going in a couple of days. The problem is I could only get the fuel pump to turn on if I jumped Fp and B+. I did some research and from what I could tell it was a problem with the Circuit Opening Relay.

I actually have 2 4Runners, so I'm using the other one for parts. I took the relay out of that one to put it into the one that runs but now all of a sudden I get no power. AT ALL.

Nothing lights up, nothing turns on. I had the stereo going up until I replaced the COR (I of course disconnected the battery before taking it out) so I'm kind of worried I screwed something up.
My dad died in 05, so I'm somewhat on my own with this and learning as I go.
Any help would be MUCH appreciated. I just hope I didn't make a huge mistake when I was taking the COR out.
Thanks
- Stuart
Old 03-29-2016 | 12:31 AM
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Try putting the old one back in and see if you can at least get it back to the way it was. It might be that the replacement relay is worse then what you had. Are all of the fuses good? If that is all you did, I don't think you did any major damage. Electrical is my weak point and not something I care to deal with as well. I go into panic mode when something similar happens to me but think you will be okay in the end.
Old 03-29-2016 | 12:46 AM
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Red face

Poor connection from when you disconnected your battery ??

Since things were working before.

A bad relay would not take out the whole electrical system unless it completely drained the battery in which case you would have melted wires and some open fuses
Old 03-29-2016 | 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Terrys87
Try putting the old one back in and see if you can at least get it back to the way it was. It might be that the replacement relay is worse then what you had. Are all of the fuses good? If that is all you did, I don't think you did any major damage. Electrical is my weak point and not something I care to deal with as well. I go into panic mode when something similar happens to me but think you will be okay in the end.
I put the old one back in as soon I saw that nothing was turning on. Still no change. The fuses should be good since I just replaced most of them, but I'll check them later
Old 03-29-2016 | 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by wyoming9
Poor connection from when you disconnected your battery ??

Since things were working before.

A bad relay would not take out the whole electrical system unless it completely drained the battery in which case you would have melted wires and some open fuses
That's what I originally thought, but it would just be a hell of a coincidence if that's the case. Right after I replaced something important, there's something wrong with the battery cables.
I'm sure there's still power in the battery as I attached some jumper cables to it and made it spark.
I'm really stumped at what I did
Old 03-29-2016 | 11:27 AM
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Red face

Time for a volt meter your just guessing and getting frustrated

Sounds like a bad ground corroded terminals??

Installed in a slightly different position now no connection
Old 03-29-2016 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by wyoming9
Time for a volt meter your just guessing and getting frustrated

Sounds like a bad ground corroded terminals??

Installed in a slightly different position now no connection
I'll check the terminals when I get home.
I'll let you know how it goes
Old 03-29-2016 | 07:54 PM
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Alright, I checked all of that. Still nothing.
However I can roll down the electric back window. So I think it's just the dash that isn't getting any power.
I'm starting the kind of freak out to be honest... Idk what I did wrong.
Is it possible that I ripped one of the wires while trying to get the COR out? But I mean even with that, I should still get something on the dash to work.
I just hope that I didn't completely ruin all of the work I did in less than 10 min
Old 03-30-2016 | 11:33 AM
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How does the fuse box behind the battery get power?
Old 03-30-2016 | 12:52 PM
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nvm, found it and fixed the problem
The fuel pump still wont turn on unless I jump Fp and B+ though
Old 03-30-2016 | 03:03 PM
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You need to check the FP switch in the VAFM. Wait...what year/engine is it? Does it even have a VAFM?
Old 03-30-2016 | 04:26 PM
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Red face

Fess up just what was wrong??

Now we can work on the real problem.
Old 03-31-2016 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by wyoming9
Fess up just what was wrong??

Now we can work on the real problem.
I was stupid and didn't notice that the power cable to the fusebox fell off of the positive battery cable
I reattached that and drove it around for a bit. Drives a lot better than it did when I first got it going.
I still can't get the fuel pump to turn on :/ I was jumping it (Fp to B+) but now that doesnt even work
Could it be because the battery doesn't have enough power? I can roll down the electric back window either for some reason. It worked yesterday :/ same with Fp to B+
Old 03-31-2016 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by MudHippy
You need to check the FP switch in the VAFM. Wait...what year/engine is it? Does it even have a VAFM?
What exactly is a VAFM? Like I said, I'm a pretty big newbie when it comes to stuff like that xD
Not 100% sure what year it is, but I think it's an 89.
here's a picture if you're able to tell- http://imgur.com/7j9NmFm
Old 03-31-2016 | 05:38 PM
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Volume Air Flow Meter.

Looks like an 89. But 89 with what? V6? 4 cyl.?

Regardless...it has one(if it's an 89).

Now you need to pull the plug/connector off it. Then Check for continuity between the 2 pins furthest to the left(FC & E1). There should be none with the measuring plate closed. But opening the measuring plate(pushing it to the rear) a few mm should close the switch and there should be continuity between the pins.

But...it sounds like you're back to square 1 again. So once you figure out what you just broke, we'll start there. The fuel pump circuit is pretty straightforward. Basically it's: Battery --> 30A fuse --> Ignition switch --> EFI Main Relay --> COR --> VAFM Fuel Pump switch --> Fuel Pump.

Jumping Fp and +B bypasses the COR and VAFM FP switch.

Last edited by MudHippy; 03-31-2016 at 05:47 PM.
Old 03-31-2016 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by MudHippy
Volume Air Flow Meter.

Looks like an 89. But 89 with what? V6? 4 cyl.?

Regardless...it has one(if it's an 89).

Now you need to pull the plug/connector off it. Then Check for continuity between the 2 pins furthest to the left(FC & E1). There should be none with the measuring plate closed. But opening the measuring plate(pushing it to the rear) a few mm should close the switch and there should be continuity between the pins.

But...it sounds like you're back to square 1 again. So once you figure out what you just broke, we'll start there. The fuel pump circuit is pretty straightforward. Basically it's: Battery --> 30A fuse --> Ignition switch --> EFI Main Relay --> COR --> VAFM Fuel Pump switch --> Fuel Pump.

Jumping Fp and +B bypasses the COR and VAFM FP switch.
Alright, thanks for the info I'll check it tomorrow.
Any reason you can think of why jumping Fp and B+ Doesn't seem to work anymore?
Old 03-31-2016 | 07:31 PM
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Possibly because, but not limited to:

Battery dead
Fusible link blown
30A fuse blown
15A EFI fuse blown
EFI Main Relay malfunctioning
Old 03-31-2016 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by MudHippy
Possibly because, but not limited to:

Battery dead
Fusible link blown
30A fuse blown
15A EFI fuse blown
EFI Main Relay malfunctioning
If the battery has enough power to turn the truck over, would it still have enough to power everything else?
Where's the fusible link?
I'll check all of the fuses tomorrow as well.
Hopping I can get everything sorted out tomorrow
Old 04-01-2016 | 08:39 AM
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1. Yes, in theory.

2. It's the "power cable" to the fuse box, that fell off. It's a specific gauge wire that will melt at a certain amperage, acting as a fuse.

3. Just wanted to say for tackling this at your age and level of mechanical experience, you are THE MAN. Just the fact that you got it running at all after sitting for 12 years is remarkable. And your willingness to try fixing the electrical issue is quite impressive. At 17 I probably wouldn't have even attempted to resurrect it in the first place. And would likely have backed down completely at the first signs of electrical trouble if I had.
Old 04-01-2016 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by MudHippy
1. Yes, in theory.

2. It's the "power cable" to the fuse box, that fell off. It's a specific gauge wire that will melt at a certain amperage, acting as a fuse.

3. Just wanted to say for tackling this at your age and level of mechanical experience, you are THE MAN. Just the fact that you got it running at all after sitting for 12 years is remarkable. And your willingness to try fixing the electrical issue is quite impressive. At 17 I probably wouldn't have even attempted to resurrect it in the first place. And would likely have backed down completely at the first signs of electrical trouble if I had.
Alright, I'll go outside and fool around with the wire and reattach it again. When I first attached it I was hearing a clicking noise from the fusebox when I hooked up the battery but not anymore.
And thanks Means a lot. I have some good memories of my dad in that 4runner, so I'm pretty motivated to try and get it road worthy again xD
Once I finally get power to the fuel pump I can work on some cosmetic stuff
I'll post my results in an hour or so



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