adrenalinejunkie42

Hi everyone, I'm new here. My 86 22r 4x4 pickup broke down on a road trip over the 4th of July weekend (started knocking, losing power, then quit, started up again, drove to closest mechanic, then seized going up a tow dolly)

I started the rebuild process, but am on limited funds, I intend to use the rebuild kit from enginebldr.

I have torn everything apart, and am pretty much down to the the short block with the oil pan removed. My question is: my Haynes repair manual says that I need to have the engine removed to remove the crankshaft. Has anyone done this with the engine still mounted?

I kinda don't want to pay to rent a lift. Any other rebuild advice would be great as well, thanks.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

HAYNES.... that says it all, eh? Jk, but really, couple things come to mind....

1. You'll have to at least back the trans up from the motor(I would drop it or at least lower it to where you can get the bell housing off... it's bolted to the trans on the inside of the bell housing hallow)...Thus, needing to back if off, which requires removing all the bell housing to motor bolts(you'd have to anyway to pull the motor)

2. Yes, You will need the bell housing out of the way in order to pull the clutch assembly, flywheel and then unbolt the rear main seal housing/crank end cover from the back of the motor....... AND THENNNNNNN, lol>>>

3. You'll have to start on the main and rod bearing caps, all the while, supporting the crank somehow on the weight ends because, ....well, as you unbolt the thing from the ends toward the center..... what will be holding it in the motor still? 3 CAPS, THEN ....1 CAP!!! NOT gonna work unless you're pushing upward on the crank with something(bottle jacks and pieces of wood??????) .....

4. RENT A HOIST! .... honestly, not making light of this, .... I CAN TOTALLY relate to watching every penny. But, in reality, ....if you don't wanna have to pull/move/maybe drop the trans, bell housing included, then work from under there getting all the clutch assembly and flywheel out, then getting the crank out and MAKING SURE you keep the crank fully pressed upward into the journals while you remove all the caps, then turn the crank over as you remove the rod bearing caps???? Honestly, I know it's doable, I'm sure people will say, "OH heck no, it's a piece of cake....."... and I will say right now, I could be wrong... but honestly, having pulled mine twice in a year, and just rebuilding with a replacement short block after 1.5 years total????? I WOULD PULL THE BLOCK!

You could probably get a 2x4 across the fenders, hook ratchet straps over the wood and then bolt them to the block with some eye-hooks for the ratchet hooks to grab on, then lift it up with another guy, while you both stand on step ladders.... VERY CAREFULLY lift it out, of course, as you can't really back up, etc. If you can pull the dang thing, since you're already down to the short block.... Honestly, I think you would save yourself a LOT OF TIME and more possibilities that something could go wrong, ya know?

Best wishes, either way, you got your work cut out, ...but you'll get it!

adrenalinejunkie42

Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it. Now that you have depressed me with all the more work to do jk I'll probably do as you said and take it out, it should be a lot easier.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Oh no, AJ, ...IT WILL be a LOT easier, not 'should', trust me. I did quite a few things over the last year and a half that I WISH I would have just done what, at the time, 'seemed like the long route' or 'more dramatic route'... because, in the end, all I did was chew up time doing it what 'seemed like the easier way', hahaha. Heck, some times I even wound up having to do it that "Longer route" anyway! lol. Not to mention, 'REINSTALLING THE CRANK AND BEARINGS AND MAIN AND ROD BEARINGS AND END CAPS' ... You will totally thank me, unless you have some way to turn your truck upside down? hehehe.

Honestly, best wishes on it, and KEEP ME UPDATED, k? If there's anything I can help shave some time off through experience of my own(LOTS OF DO-OVERS! LOL)... I would GLADLY lend you a couple cents of thoughts! lol.

adrenalinejunkie42

I priced up the hoist this morning at the local rental place. at $32 a week, can't go wrong. I also checked prices in case I got lazy for rebuilt short blocks - with $1000 being the lowest, gave me a little more initiative to get this done.

iselloil

$1265.00 for a complete engine. I used these guys. Sunwest.http://www.sunwestautomotiveengines.com/lb-toyota.html

4x4climber

WASTE of money. Rebuild your own motor...

It is not that hard. You know exactly what parts are in it, and you get more out of your money.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey AJ, .....

Nothing wrong with grabbing a "RE-2-GO" motor(half the time it works out, lol), if that's what you want(In some peoples lives, they have no choice due to allowed time, etc.). Just remember.... like me, with my first motor that I had rebuilt(and subsequently ruined, LITERALLY)... you wont KNOW exactly what they did, what BRAND parts/seals/gaskets they used, etc.

So; Ask the shops who install motors(and often work on the ones that were rebuilt, and then didn't work out like the customer had hoped). After what I've been through, using what I'd heard by many 'non-professionals' as "Best In L.A.".... I think I can speak on this as someone who has 'learned the hard way'. Heck, I didn't even try to save TOO much money, AJ, ....and yet my crank, block, orig. cam, head job, timing cover sealing, ....plus MUCH more, ....ALL botched! Even handed them an LCE metal deluxe timing kit.... and when I opened up the motor FOR THE SECOND TIME, pulling the timing cover>>>, "Whatever" brand was in there, with plastic guides. THEN, they try to sell me one? lol....

And, I KNOW, doing it yourself doesn't mean it will be "GUARANTEED" to be better than some of the 'rebuilders/sellers'(depending on who you use and their reputation).... But sometimes, taking 2 weeks, yourself, triple checking everything, etc., isn't a 'BAD' thing compared to a place that does it in 3 days in their spare time. 1000$? NOT saying that's a bad thing... I don't know of them. But honestly? >> Many of the guys that sell the most product on here (22reperformance.com, LCE, engnbldr) get around 600$ to 1200$ for the HEADS, ALONE, ..... depending on what you want, but all with a brand new casting head, all new guides, OSized valves, seals, springs, ready to go!

You could get a brand new cast head from engnbldr for around (580$ delivered, w/CAM), then hot tank/machine the rest of your block, crank reworking(300$), Turbo Flywheel and Clutch Kit from LCE(200$) and full rebuild kit from engnbldr for (219$ special... http://engnbldr.com/Toyota-Hotlicks.htm ) ...... I mean, ...at least then, you'll know EVERYTHING that's in there^^^, right? And keep in mind, that, above, INCLUDED the Higher End Daikin Turbo Clutch Kit W/FLYWHEEL.

PLEASE, ....do your homework, and then do some more, ok? Like XXXtreme pointed out to someone the other day, "Why would you recommend those knobs, obviously you've not used them! To the OP, just search the net and you'll find PLENTY, HUNDREDS of unsatisfied customers"....... Can't remember, it was some rebuilder in the Oregon/Washington area(don't wanna bad mouth someone on accident, by name, ya know? lol)

adrenalinejunkie42

Thanks a bunch guys, I,ve been doing a ton of research the last couple of weeks because I only want to do this once, and do it right the first time. I took off work today and stripped it down to the bare block, Now I just have to separate it from the trans and lift it out. hoping there aren't any hidden bolts or nuts I can't see. (taking a break cuz its 98 degrees out there!) lol

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Fhew, that's hot..... gotta pace yourself. U'll get it, and just make CERTAIN you have all the bell/engine mount bolts out . You can leave the support braces on the block, just pull them from the bell housing side. AND MAKE CERTAIN you have the trans supported by ratchet straps when you pull the motor, ok? I think I have pics of how I hooked it up in my build thread, but it's kinda hard to fish through..... maybe in the last 15 pages or so? I'll try to find you one when I have a few minutes to spare, on the run right now, in and out, "drive by!" lol.

adrenalinejunkie42

thanks a ton, the ratchet straps are a great idea - I'm halfway up and its def tough to get apart - definately gonna give the straps a try. and I'll look for pics on your thread. I'm also taking some pics ill eventually post.

adrenalinejunkie42

Hey guys, finished my job - almost. I bought a rebuilt engine because I'm strapped on time. I put it in last weekend which turned out to be way easier than I thought (first time). It runs and drives great, but I have one problem: My radiator is smoking. not from the cap, from the fins it seems. Has anyone experienced this? should I get a new radiator or is this something to be expected. I'm planning to post some pics of the swap on a build thread to come later

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Congratz!

Far as the radiator.... Go to radiatorbarn.com, I believe. OR, ask around to REPUTABLE SHOPS in your area and see who they recommend...then have the recommended shop do a re-rodding if they say it's possible. They will pressure test and such for free, usually, cuz they want the work. I'm in L.A., so 3 OF THE BEST radiator shops are at my 'walk in' disposal, ya know?