noob ? 96-2002
#1
noob ? 96-2002
Hi everybody. I am new to Toyotas and have been a jeep guy most of my life so I would like some direction on where to start my search for the perfect 4runner and then I will take it from there for awhile. I am looking for a 96-2002 4runner. I am looking for something I can do a mild build on just to get me and my buddies up into the mountains whenever we want to get away from the wife and kids. Lift, tires, bumpers, winch, all that kind of stuff I will research once I figure out what would be the best year to look at and the best combination of options. That is where I need a little help and then I will start my search. Thanks for any help you can give me.
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Well just what are you going to base your decision on ??
Just what options can you not live without ??
Auto or manual person ??
The real question what kind of budget are you working with??
Looking for a project or something you can just get in and go??
Best thing is get busy looking at the ones you might like remembering decent 4 Runners at a reasonable price go very fast.
Then if your in the liquid brine belt it adds a whole other area to look at while shopping.
Doing all this work yourself quite easy to spend $1000.00 or more just in parts catching up neglected maintenance paying labor it gets real expensive.
Happy Hunting
Just what options can you not live without ??
Auto or manual person ??
The real question what kind of budget are you working with??
Looking for a project or something you can just get in and go??
Best thing is get busy looking at the ones you might like remembering decent 4 Runners at a reasonable price go very fast.
Then if your in the liquid brine belt it adds a whole other area to look at while shopping.
Doing all this work yourself quite easy to spend $1000.00 or more just in parts catching up neglected maintenance paying labor it gets real expensive.
Happy Hunting
#3
I want something that will be a reliable I will aim for something with higher mileage because I'm on a tight budget. I am a competent mechanic and work on all my own vehicles. I want something 98-2002 in that range. Doesn't have to be a limited. I want something that I can load my kids car seats in every or ing but take them out and go off road with my buddies. I am looking at a few. One is a supercharged 01 but it has a lot of miles which makes me a little nervous with the super charger. I'm trying to see how hard it is to do a rebuild. I guess any advice would be helpful. I am a jeep guy normally but want something more reliable
#4
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I want something that will be a reliableI will aim for something with higher mileage because I'm on a tight budget. I am a competent mechanic and work on all my own vehicles. I want something 98-2002 in that range. Doesn't have to be a limited. I want something that I can load my kids car seats in every or ing but take them out and go off road with my buddies. I am looking at a few. One is a supercharged 01 but it has a lot of miles which makes me a little nervous with the super charger. I'm trying to see how hard it is to do a rebuild. I guess any advice would be helpful. I am a jeep guy normally but want something more reliable
I have a 1990 4 Runner that I've had since high school. I have spent about $7K on both maintenance and repairs because I love it to death, even more than my 2012 camery.
keep us informed if you have any questions and will do our best to answer them.
#5
Contributing Member
Peruse this: 3rd gen buyer's guide
It's the best place for the prospective new 4Runner buyer to start that I can think of.
I suppose if I were starting again from scratch I'd go for a manual trans with e-locker, mebbe something like the taller springed '99. Just plain bling hood scoop would be alright too. Nicer headlights, cup holders down in the center console rather than the dash. Extra power outlets. The 99 doesn't have the child seat anchors on the backs of the seats (not sure when that started) and none have LATCH. Cloth sport seats are nice. Rear heat isn't bad, either. Something without rust on the frame or sills or behind any cladding. I'd look to see if the timing belt was done if over 90,000 miles, if it were an automatic *gasp* I'd look to see if new radiator or tranny cooler and learn about pink milkshakes.
Then again, there's no way I'd part with the 96 I have, especially as I've customized it to bits. Even though a stock 96 is the shortest of the 3rd gens, along with the '02, it's been capable enough to get me into the woods- and back out again. Drove it that way 4 years before I started doing.....stuff.....to it.
It's the best place for the prospective new 4Runner buyer to start that I can think of.
I suppose if I were starting again from scratch I'd go for a manual trans with e-locker, mebbe something like the taller springed '99. Just plain bling hood scoop would be alright too. Nicer headlights, cup holders down in the center console rather than the dash. Extra power outlets. The 99 doesn't have the child seat anchors on the backs of the seats (not sure when that started) and none have LATCH. Cloth sport seats are nice. Rear heat isn't bad, either. Something without rust on the frame or sills or behind any cladding. I'd look to see if the timing belt was done if over 90,000 miles, if it were an automatic *gasp* I'd look to see if new radiator or tranny cooler and learn about pink milkshakes.
Then again, there's no way I'd part with the 96 I have, especially as I've customized it to bits. Even though a stock 96 is the shortest of the 3rd gens, along with the '02, it's been capable enough to get me into the woods- and back out again. Drove it that way 4 years before I started doing.....stuff.....to it.
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#8
Contributing Member
My 96 only has 286,xxx miles so haven't had to think rebuild/replace engine yet. I've found the stuff I have done (post 2 of build thread in sig below if curious, but basically lots of maintenance) has been pretty reasonable to work on. We bought the 99 with around 150,000 miles, m/t, 4wd, locker in great shape a few years ago for a little less. No supercharger and we did have to travel to get it though....anywho....
For this area that seems a pretty high price for those kind of miles, though tires and lift and new parts and supercharger might get it sold anyway. All this is what comes to mind when reading the stats, what I would look for:
I'd want to know what brand replacements especially for the ball joints and tie rod ends (oe and NOT Moog).
I'd pay attention to the wheel bearings- as in why were the axle seals replaced (sometimes it's just a clogged diff breather).
When was the supercharger last serviced? 1st or 2nd gen?
Service intervals for the t-belt are every 60,000, though on later 3rd gens it's every 90,000 so there's some wiggle room on that number. If you were to pay strict attention to numbers it'd be due again in 10k. Non-interference and nearly the same parts as later 3rd gens so I'd be comfortable with wiggle room personally.
New brakes meaning pads only or rotors and pads on the front? Are they oe brakes or was the tundra brake upgrade done (front only)?
Does it have a new radiator or does it have an aftermarket trans oil cooler (pink milkshake avoidance measure). IF it has a new radiator did it already milkshake (assuming auto trans, moot if manual tranny) or was it preventative maintenance? AH, nevermind, just saw the new radiator part, but the why question still applies.
Rust issues (just because non-rust belt doesn't mean it won't have any) such as rear pumpkin, door sills, frame, etc?
New tires is nice.
I personally prefer a different lift so wouldn't buy this just because it's lifted. If the lift is recent pay attention to the cv boots when you're under there. They tend to start leaking if they're oe when they've been lifted. If no diff drop the boots may rub lobes and eventually eat themselves (you can feel grooves) and sometimes even if diff drop. Not a big deal, research boot stretch. If they are not the original shafts do they have a replacement warranty (ie, paperwork)?
All that steering/suspension work. Is it maintenance catch-up, lift-induced, state inspection induced or are they chasing a problem down?
Not having many spare coins, I tend to pick the heck out of purchases. You of course, do what you've gotta do.
If you haven't gone through the link I posted you really need to start there. If you have then you've got clues to work with.
For this area that seems a pretty high price for those kind of miles, though tires and lift and new parts and supercharger might get it sold anyway. All this is what comes to mind when reading the stats, what I would look for:
I'd want to know what brand replacements especially for the ball joints and tie rod ends (oe and NOT Moog).
I'd pay attention to the wheel bearings- as in why were the axle seals replaced (sometimes it's just a clogged diff breather).
When was the supercharger last serviced? 1st or 2nd gen?
Service intervals for the t-belt are every 60,000, though on later 3rd gens it's every 90,000 so there's some wiggle room on that number. If you were to pay strict attention to numbers it'd be due again in 10k. Non-interference and nearly the same parts as later 3rd gens so I'd be comfortable with wiggle room personally.
New brakes meaning pads only or rotors and pads on the front? Are they oe brakes or was the tundra brake upgrade done (front only)?
Does it have a new radiator or does it have an aftermarket trans oil cooler (pink milkshake avoidance measure). IF it has a new radiator did it already milkshake (assuming auto trans, moot if manual tranny) or was it preventative maintenance? AH, nevermind, just saw the new radiator part, but the why question still applies.
Rust issues (just because non-rust belt doesn't mean it won't have any) such as rear pumpkin, door sills, frame, etc?
New tires is nice.
I personally prefer a different lift so wouldn't buy this just because it's lifted. If the lift is recent pay attention to the cv boots when you're under there. They tend to start leaking if they're oe when they've been lifted. If no diff drop the boots may rub lobes and eventually eat themselves (you can feel grooves) and sometimes even if diff drop. Not a big deal, research boot stretch. If they are not the original shafts do they have a replacement warranty (ie, paperwork)?
All that steering/suspension work. Is it maintenance catch-up, lift-induced, state inspection induced or are they chasing a problem down?
Not having many spare coins, I tend to pick the heck out of purchases. You of course, do what you've gotta do.
If you haven't gone through the link I posted you really need to start there. If you have then you've got clues to work with.
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