It seems to me that something is installed wrong or by installing a new clutch you may have found a weak master or slave cylinder. Maybe one of them is about worn out and by adding the brand new pressure plate vs the old worn out pressure plate that now there just isnt enough pressure there to disengage

How far is the rod moving on the slave cylinder?

Well like I said, the master and slave are both less than 3 months old. The slave rod moves between a half inch and an inch or so. Roughly 3/4s of an inch is safe to say. I'll have a factory toyota replacement here in a couple hours and will put it in after work.

I have messed up brand new master cylinders by adjusting them all the way out in the past. 3/4 of an inch doesnt seem like enough movement

How far SHOULD it be moving?

That makes sense. My old clutch had to be completely smashed in to disengage the clutch, therefore the master was all the way out. This is how its been most of the time so it may be bad at this point.

OK here is where we are at...

Swapped the slave and bled the fire outta this thing. Nothing.
Went and bought a new master, started all the way in, and bled the fire out of it again. Nothing
Moved the rod half way, bled again, nothing.
Moved it all the way out and still nothing.
So I pulled the bell housing off again, bearing and fork look good. Pulled the pressure plate off, clutch is facing the correct way. Then I sat there for a few minutes looking at the inside of the bell housing and saw that the ball that the fork pivots on is unscrewable. I decided to take it off, place a couple washers behind it and reassemble the fork giving it more of an offest. The fork now will pivot and travel further when I put the bell housing back on tomorrow. I hope that this will give me enough force to fully disengage the clutch. What do you guys think about that? :)

I wonder if you have the correct clutch release bearing??? Do you have the bearing installed on the bearing hub correct??

Is it on the fork the correct way??

It is easy to screw these up and it causes no end of grief.

The only other thing I can thing is you have a bad connection at one of the clutch line fittings that is allowing air to be drawn into the system.

It might only be leaking a few drops of fluid a day but if it is sucking in air any attempts to bleed will fail.

How did the pedal itself feel??

The bearing is identical to the one that came off the hub. It is poressed on the exact same way.
The fork only goes on one way.
Both master and cylinder are brand new as of today which means that the connections have been checked.

Well the way I look at this is once you get yours fixed then shortly there after mine will be fine also. I have a brand new MCCL-114 clutch kit in mine with a MCCL-442 2100lb pressure plate and a MCCL-312 HD metallic disc
even one of their new MCCL-213A flywheel and have the same issues as you:con::con:.

Have you checked the condition of the short rubber flex line? ... Not to mention the actual clutch pedal assembly.

Both of these are prone to bending (for the pedal) and the hose to begin failing an expand under pressure.

For no reason should you need to add washers to that pivot point for the fork. The problem is with your hydraulics, not your transmission or clutch.

*I have the MC 1600lb plate as well..

I'll double check the short line. I don't know how else it could be hydraulics. Everything is brand new, including the connections to the master and slave cylinders. The pedal is not bent nor is the fork.

I really hope this solves your problem as well. I obviously know how frustrating it is to have all new stuff and it not work.

Where do you live? I always see these problems on YT... These issues are easily sorted with the experienced eye after a few minutes. :wrench:

Do you have any of the old clutch parts to compare to? is the input spline clean and lubed?

I live in Tucson AZ. I had a buddy over that said he could "have it back on the road in a few minutes" and he failed also.

I do have the old clutch parts. Below is a photo of the original clutch when I pulled it out.
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x...al/clutch1.jpg

At the time of the clutch replacement I replaced the clutch only because it was slipping and as far as I knew from the previous owner it had never been replaced. The master cylinder and the slave were in good working order at that time so I didn't replace them. I couldn't begin to tell you how many clutch assy's that I have put in over the past 45 years and master and slave cylinders and have never had a issue like this till now. Before the truck left the shop the next day after installing the clutch and still not being able to get it in gear I replaced the master and slave cyl's and the hyd hose between the hard lines. And yes I did check the brake pedal mounting bracket assy for cracks and there were none. So the only thing that was left to do was to adjust the piston rod on the top of the clutch pedal and I was able to get it to where it would finally disengage the clutch.
At point the clutch released very close to the floor and that was the best that I could get it. By the time the engine has run for about 20 minutes whether its being driven or sitting in the shop the clutch disengagement is at the top of the pedal and that is where it stays no matter how long it runs. After it cools 6 to 8 hours it is back near the floor. I had a tech look at it and he said the same thing as Dd's tech said. Aw, I'll just bleed the system and that will fix that. Same result afterwards, he was stumped also. So here I am back at square 1.:dunno:

Ok so I can't determine if the pressure plate can go on wrong or not. There are two ways it seems to bolt up. Does it make a difference which way it goes on?

DD, how much free play at the very beginning(top) of your clutch pedal? How far does it depress before you feel resistance other than return spring? I'm not sure what factory specs are, but my Marlin 1200lb clutch with new Aisin master and 1998 Tacoma slave (due to swap), my pedal goes down about 3/4" before it starts to "work". Then it goes about 1/2 way down and my clutch is fully disengaged. It may be wrong, but I prefer my clutch up high. Let us know what your measurements are. When I get back to my truck I can take a measurement of how far the slave rod moves. There shouldn't be any play between slave rod and clutch fork...