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My 22re wont idle!

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Old 03-10-2010 | 10:30 AM
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BrokenYotaFellar's Avatar
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My 22re wont idle!

I have a 1989 Toyota 22re 4wd truck. It has something on it that will not allow me to press the gas pedal until the vehicle is warm.(never heard of such a thing) Once the truck has warmed up and I drive for about 5 minutes, the engine will die if i do not press on the gas. I can hear a relay or something (passenger side floorboard area)clicking on and off when i press and release the gas pedal. This makes stopping at signs and for creatures troublesome because i have to clutch, brake, and gas at the same time or restart my truck 10 times for a 20 minute drive. Help!
Old 03-10-2010 | 06:44 PM
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myyota's Avatar
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From: GrangeVille, Idaho
Check the TPS, if its bad or out of adjustment that could cause your truck to not idle. The relay your hearing is the core relay (i think thats right) it controls the fuel pump, and if it goes bad that would also cause your truck to not run or to run badly. They can be expensive to replace, so try and find a used one if needed.
Old 03-11-2010 | 11:15 PM
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BrokenYotaFellar's Avatar
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Will check the TPS this weekend if the weather is good. Also if the fuel pump relay is clicking on and off that makes me think it's working fine. Another thing I perhaps should add is that when driving if I let off the gas, the relay clicks but if I am just decelerating or just coasting in gear it stays running until the engine is not being forced to turn. Also when the truck shuts off from lack of gas pedal pressure the relay makes no sound when the gas pedal is pressed and released.

Another problem I am having that developed recently (from having to pump the brakes and gas back and forth while stopping I'm guessing) is a shimmy due to the brake not releasing along with a warped rotor or something. Is there a spring that may be broken that makes the brakes release when the pedal is no longer being pressed? I believe it is in the driver side front because the truck pulls to the left pretty hard after having to apply the brakes for a stop.

Last edited by BrokenYotaFellar; 03-11-2010 at 11:20 PM.
Old 03-12-2010 | 07:37 PM
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rudy@bsofelpaso.com's Avatar
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From: El Paso, Texas
Wow! I was having this exact same problem with the exact same symptoms you described. My toy is an 86 sr5 4runner with the 22re engine, standard transmission and was recently overhauled about 1,500 miles ago. It looks like i just fixed it although i really didnt do much.

I was attempting to look for a vacumn leak since nothing had been changed before the problem appeard. I looked for all the obvious probably leaks (air intake hose, egr, etc..) but my visual inspection found nothing. So since I coudnt make it idle I had my wife hold the rpm's at 2K. I then proceeded to spray carburetor cleaner (didnt have any starter fluid but the carb cleaner is just as flammable) in small sections on the intake side of the engine but there was no increase in RPM's. Long story short I gave up spraying since i didnt want my engine to erupt in a burst of flames. Lo and behold it idled the way it used to! Drove her around the block, turned her off and on and everything seems to be holding. I'll let you know if something changes tomorrow. keep us posted if you find an official fix
Old 03-15-2010 | 10:13 PM
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From: El Paso, Texas
Well it looks like the problem came back so I took it to a mechanic and he adjusted the tps and the dashpot. That settled my idle to 850rpm and the truck worked fine until it cooled down. It seems like the problem comes when its cold and goes away after the truck has been running for about 10 minutes. Anybody have any ideas?
Old 03-22-2010 | 11:29 PM
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BrokenYotaFellar's Avatar
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May be a bit before I can check my TPS

It will be a week or so until I am able to get to the TPS on my 4x4, found a great site that tells you how to do it in detail with resistance charts and all,(dont want to mess anything up and not be able to drive to work) because I am currently pulling an engine out of my 2wd Yota and having it rebuilt. I found some disappointing sights upon pulling the head for a timing chain and head gasket replacement. Apparently the head gasket had blown before and it was parked or something because there are some water spots in cylinder #2 and deep scoring all the way around the bottom of the cylinder from ring damage, probably broke a ring-land when it took in water.(They had replaced the timing chain and head gasket recently too but I didn't know that and it has 244k miles on it so I thought it a good idea to replace them.) Took a .020" bore to get the cylinder good. Bring on the can of worms. Q_Q

Last edited by BrokenYotaFellar; 03-22-2010 at 11:31 PM.
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