Is it still at full droop when the truck is supporting its own weight? If so, relax the torsion bars until the LCAs are almost level.

 

^looks like the first couple pics are with truck on its own weight...but then again i see part of a jack stand...

relax t-bars and that should hopefully solve the problem. if you run out of threads on the adjustment bolts, you will have to re-index (rotate a few splines) the t-bars and try again.

 

Nothing changes when the truck is on the ground.

I think I might be confused about the whole "re-indexing" idea. Aren't the torsion bars keyed, so they only go in one way?

Here are the only pictures I could scrounge up.

 

I have OME torsion bars on my truck and I have payed with the height a bit. "cranking" the bars means torquing the bar more, which effectively is twisting the bar and adding more tension. This lifts the truck higher or can support more weight without sagging.

After I put the HD dakar springs on the back my truck was WAY up high in the back, so I tried to compensate with cranked (against the bump stop) T-bars, which got me close but not there plus eliminating any droop. I lowered (uncranked) the bars until I was maybe 7/8 of the way to the top bump stop (a fingers' width). This gave me limited droop, but was a bit more level. I wheeled it and took it on the high way and it is fine. A bit rough if a large droop is needed, but fine.

I think you have too short of adjusting bolts and it's causing you to have to crank the t-bars. Mine show alot more threads than yours. my opinion is that it won't hurt anything to have your control arms at the bump stop, other than lose your droop and be a bit rough riding. I would go get the right length of bolt and start over just to be sure you installed everything right. Of course do any adjustments with the wheels off the ground and check your progress periodically by dropping the truck to the ground.

 

I know what "cranking" is, but isn't re-indexing different?

Since the UCA is on the droop stop, does that mean my bars are cranked or relaxed? Relaxing the bar has no effect as I'm simply running out of threads.

I bought the bolts through a Toyota OEM dealer, so I don't know why the bolts are shorter. This is a bad picture, but you can see the difference.

 

Your bars are cranked. If you have longer bolts, you will be able to loosen the t-bars more and be able to dial in exactly where you want to be between the upper and lower bump stops. I think stock setting is 2/3 space to the lower stop and 1/3 space to upper stop

yeah reindexing is turning the splines from recommended install position, which seems unnecessary to me, and maybe impossible as you may be right that they are keyed. I don't remember.

 

So if I go back to using the stock length bolts, everything should be resolved? Should I buy another set of bolts or just use the oldies?

Yeah, that's the setting OME says when you install all their stuff, which I will be doing soon. Just gotta order the springs.

 

yeah i think longer bolts will do it. I used my old bolts. Once you can adjust the bars without losing all the threads, you can set the bars for a softer ride or higher lift, however you want.

 

Sounds like a plan then.

Thanks for the help.

I'll try and get around to posting an update in the next few days.

 

first make 100% sure you're turning the bolt in the correct direction then I think you have 2 options:
1) put in your old, longer bolts to get a bit more threads exposed so you can adjust further
2) re-index your tbars 1-2 splines, set adjustment bolt back to center(or to where you have the most threads in the direction you want to go), then reinstall.

either way, you're essentially doing the same thing with both methods. personally though: 28yr old bolts vs new...

i wouldn't recommend your ride around on your droop stops for a long time. it won't really effect DD other than ride, but if you don't have manual hubs or are putting it in 4wd, your CVs are at pretty much max angle and will not like this for very long (especially 28yr old ones)

 

Just to 100% positive here, taking the load off the torsion bar involves the bolt going down towards the ground? Or have I had it wrong the entire time?

Can you explain how re-indexing works? I'm still confused on the whole idea. How do you rotate the bar if it's keyed? I think I may be missing something.

 

After being delayed by this


I just replaced the bolts and voila! Much better now.

 

Looks much better. I may be confusing the pickup tbars with the tbars of my 100-series (which are NOT keyed and can be rotated). I can't remember what's on the truck but if you say keyed I'll believe you. If that's the case - amazing what 20yrs technology advancement does. Glad it's all fixed. I need to get up to the snow this year....

 

 

 

Curious X2, pretty sure they are just for more GVW so they'd be stiffer and worse for "mad flex bro". But I'm new to torsion bars.