just flushed brakes and pedal is all goofy
#1
just flushed brakes and pedal is all goofy
alright so my friend and i just flushed all four brakes and now the pedal feels really lose to the point where it takes no effort to push it to the ground to brake. so i guess what im asking is any ideas on how to stiffen that pedal up
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,159
Likes: 7
From: Pleasanton, CA - SF Bay Area
I hate bleeding brakes - happened on my Datsun too.
Did you use a pressure bleeder or anything like that or just a tube, jar, fluid and friend's foot?
either way, I'd say do it all over again - remember to start from the rear passenger wheel, then rear driver wheel, then front passenger wheel -always start the farthest from the master cylinder,working your way closer.
And use flare end wrenches!
Good luck!
Did you use a pressure bleeder or anything like that or just a tube, jar, fluid and friend's foot?
either way, I'd say do it all over again - remember to start from the rear passenger wheel, then rear driver wheel, then front passenger wheel -always start the farthest from the master cylinder,working your way closer.
And use flare end wrenches!
Good luck!
#3
I have a slightly different problem.
My brake pressure went completely out. I checked everything and have no leaks anywhere but after I bled the lines five times (getting lots of air out on the first bleed) now I have intermittent brakes.
I push the pedal and get brakes
next time I push the pedal I get no brakes and the pedal goes to the floor
if I tap then push the pedal I get brakes everytime
what's going on here????? Any ideas???
Btw, I bled the mc before bleeding rears to front
My brake pressure went completely out. I checked everything and have no leaks anywhere but after I bled the lines five times (getting lots of air out on the first bleed) now I have intermittent brakes.
I push the pedal and get brakes
next time I push the pedal I get no brakes and the pedal goes to the floor
if I tap then push the pedal I get brakes everytime
what's going on here????? Any ideas???
Btw, I bled the mc before bleeding rears to front
#7
performing all bleeding with engine off yes?
I like a 3 person method. One to open and close the bleeder at the wheel. One to just press the pedal. One to just pour new fluid.
And we are assuming you know what you are actually doing, meaning when the pedal gets too low(starts to reach the floorboard) the pedal pusher yells out "DOWN" and the bleeder dude shuts it completely(!) and starts the process all over.
I am simply taking a wild guess that at one point the fluid got too low and air was re-introduced into the lines. Brake fluid is cheap compared to your life- so as stated just do it again and again until the pedal firms up.
Slight chance you have a leak in the lines but then you should be noticing fresh drips in places they don't belong.(and which would allow air to come back in)
I like a 3 person method. One to open and close the bleeder at the wheel. One to just press the pedal. One to just pour new fluid.
And we are assuming you know what you are actually doing, meaning when the pedal gets too low(starts to reach the floorboard) the pedal pusher yells out "DOWN" and the bleeder dude shuts it completely(!) and starts the process all over.
I am simply taking a wild guess that at one point the fluid got too low and air was re-introduced into the lines. Brake fluid is cheap compared to your life- so as stated just do it again and again until the pedal firms up.
Slight chance you have a leak in the lines but then you should be noticing fresh drips in places they don't belong.(and which would allow air to come back in)
Trending Topics
#8
Check. I've bled brakes a few times before and know what's going on. My problem started when I noticed (for some reason) the Cooper bolt on the bottom of the mc was all the way loose and about to fall out. So I know where the air got in but I tightened that back up and it hasn't moved. Since then I've been through 5 of the big bottles of brake fluid and re-bled everything in order starting with the mc 4 complete times and still have the same problem. I'm gonna give a couple more shots though because you're right, brake fluid is cheap.
I'm also going to try the three man brake team lol. It'll be like my very own little pit crew =)
I'm also going to try the three man brake team lol. It'll be like my very own little pit crew =)
#9
hmmm I am suspecting more than air got in through the loose bolt-could water potentially entered there also?
And yes it does sound like you know what you are doing and did not mean to imply otherwise. I myself have never bled the master cylinder so perhaps there is a procedure there that you and I are both missing out on.
stay in touch please this is how we all learn. Assuming all Brake fluid you are collecting nice and clean at each wheel yes?
And yes it does sound like you know what you are doing and did not mean to imply otherwise. I myself have never bled the master cylinder so perhaps there is a procedure there that you and I are both missing out on.
stay in touch please this is how we all learn. Assuming all Brake fluid you are collecting nice and clean at each wheel yes?
Last edited by Ron Helmuth; 02-25-2010 at 04:53 PM.
#10
I know you weren't implying anything bro. Just trying to help and I greatly appreciate it.
The bolt is directly underneath the mc so I don't see how any water could have gotten in... Stranger things have been known to happen though lol.
I would think that water would bleed out with the fluid though since the brake fluid is water soluable.
I do think you're right though, I must be missing something.
The bolt is directly underneath the mc so I don't see how any water could have gotten in... Stranger things have been known to happen though lol.
I would think that water would bleed out with the fluid though since the brake fluid is water soluable.
I do think you're right though, I must be missing something.
#11
http://www.gadgetonline.com/BrakeFlush.htm
I quote from the brake pedal flush method section:
I quote from the brake pedal flush method section:
Everyone knows about this method, but few know how bad it can be. Normally the piston, which is connected to the brake pedal, only travels so far in the master cylinder. When using the brake pedal flushing method, the piston can travel much further down in the master cylinder and contact an area that has never been touched by the piston or its sealing O-ring. If the area has corrosion in it you can ruin the O-ring in just one pass and then you will need a new master cylinder. This is most likely going to occur in a vehicle where brake flushing has not been done as often as it should have been. If it has been neglected then you should only have it power flushed.
Last edited by mt_goat; 02-26-2010 at 05:49 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Shaun Crystal Gomban
Pre 84 Trucks
5
07-30-2015 10:13 PM
PopsDad1
General Electrical & Lighting Related Topics
0
07-30-2015 02:21 PM