How difficult is it to fix an oil leak by replacing the oil filter housing & oil pan?
02-13-2013 | 10:52 AM
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How difficult is it to fix an oil leak by replacing the oil filter housing & oil pan?
My first post on YotaTech, so please be gentle if I err.
Q: Is it a simple mechanical task to remove & replace the oil filter housing o-ring and the oil pan FIPG?
Searching first, I find my 1997 Toyota 4Runner 4Cyl 2WD (3RZ-FE) 5-speed manual, with 133K miles, apparently has seven standard places to check for a persistent oil leak which is dripping in small puddles overnight:
1. Oil filter extension bracket housing o-ring
2. Oil filter o-ring
3. Oil pan formed-in-place gasket (FPIG)
4. Valve cover gasket (incl. front & rear camshaft covers & the housing plug to the rear of the camshafts)
5. Rear main seal
6. Front crank seal
7. Oil pan drain plug washer
Checking all seven suspects, the only two that I can't exonerate are the oil filter housing o-rings and the oil pan itself, as the left side oil pan and just above that oil pan (below the filter housing) is wet with oil - however, as you can imagine, there is also oil all over the place (even after degunking).
My question is how straighforward is replacing the oil filter housing o-ring and the oil pan FIPG? Looking, it seems that it's a bolt-off bolt-on operation for both culprits. But there are often hidden gotchas (and I'm not all that experienced), so that's why I ask.
Q: Is it as simple as it looks to remove & replace the oil filter housing o-ring and the oil pan FIPG (to stop an oil leak)?
Q: Is it a simple mechanical task to remove & replace the oil filter housing o-ring and the oil pan FIPG?
Searching first, I find my 1997 Toyota 4Runner 4Cyl 2WD (3RZ-FE) 5-speed manual, with 133K miles, apparently has seven standard places to check for a persistent oil leak which is dripping in small puddles overnight:
1. Oil filter extension bracket housing o-ring
2. Oil filter o-ring
3. Oil pan formed-in-place gasket (FPIG)
4. Valve cover gasket (incl. front & rear camshaft covers & the housing plug to the rear of the camshafts)
5. Rear main seal
6. Front crank seal
7. Oil pan drain plug washer
Checking all seven suspects, the only two that I can't exonerate are the oil filter housing o-rings and the oil pan itself, as the left side oil pan and just above that oil pan (below the filter housing) is wet with oil - however, as you can imagine, there is also oil all over the place (even after degunking).
My question is how straighforward is replacing the oil filter housing o-ring and the oil pan FIPG? Looking, it seems that it's a bolt-off bolt-on operation for both culprits. But there are often hidden gotchas (and I'm not all that experienced), so that's why I ask.
Q: Is it as simple as it looks to remove & replace the oil filter housing o-ring and the oil pan FIPG (to stop an oil leak)?
02-13-2013 | 11:28 AM
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I should have mentioned that I did search for a pictorial DIY, and that I have both the Toyota FSM and the Chilton shop manual.
I'm most worried about the oil filter bracket o-rings replacement procedure.
Unfortunately, I could find no pictorial DIY for the oil filter bracket, which appears to have two o-rings from the exploded diagram below.
Luckily, I did find a Yotatech text-only DIY for the oil pan R&R in a build thread, as shown below:
1. Remove the oil pan guard, 4x12mm bolts
2. Drain the oil
3. Remove the two brackets that attach the lower bellhousing to the engine, along with the metal shield over the bellhousing; 4 14mm bolts each
4. Unbolt the oil pan and loosen it up; bunches of 10mm bolts, 2 10mm nuts
5. Unbolt the steering idler from the frame; pulling it forward gives the extra 1/2" or so clearance needed to pull the pan; 3 17mm nuts and bolts
6. Pull the pan
7. Pull the oil pickup; 2 10mm bolts, 2 10mm nuts
8. Pull the oil pan baffle; be careful not to bend this as you separate it from the block
9. Clean all of the mating surfaces; a razor blade and wire brush worked well for me
10. Degrease all of the mating surfaces; I first engine degreased the whole pan and baffle, then used carb cleaner on the mating surfaces to be sure they're extra clean
11. Apply a 1/8" bead of FIPG all around the top mating surface of the baffle; install it
12. Replace the oil pickup
13. Apply a 1/8" bead of FIPG all around the mating surface of the oil pan; install it
14. When bolting up the pan, don't over-torque the bolts!
15. Replace bell housing shield and 2 brackets
16. Re-mount steering idler
17. Replace oil pan guard
18. Fill it with oil
2. Drain the oil
3. Remove the two brackets that attach the lower bellhousing to the engine, along with the metal shield over the bellhousing; 4 14mm bolts each
4. Unbolt the oil pan and loosen it up; bunches of 10mm bolts, 2 10mm nuts
5. Unbolt the steering idler from the frame; pulling it forward gives the extra 1/2" or so clearance needed to pull the pan; 3 17mm nuts and bolts
6. Pull the pan
7. Pull the oil pickup; 2 10mm bolts, 2 10mm nuts
8. Pull the oil pan baffle; be careful not to bend this as you separate it from the block
9. Clean all of the mating surfaces; a razor blade and wire brush worked well for me
10. Degrease all of the mating surfaces; I first engine degreased the whole pan and baffle, then used carb cleaner on the mating surfaces to be sure they're extra clean
11. Apply a 1/8" bead of FIPG all around the top mating surface of the baffle; install it
12. Replace the oil pickup
13. Apply a 1/8" bead of FIPG all around the mating surface of the oil pan; install it
14. When bolting up the pan, don't over-torque the bolts!
15. Replace bell housing shield and 2 brackets
16. Re-mount steering idler
17. Replace oil pan guard
18. Fill it with oil
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery
2. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
3. Remove the engine undercover.
4. Drain the engine oil.
5. Remove the 16 mounting bolts and two nuts to the oil pan.
6. Remove the oil pan from the engine.
Be careful not to damage the oil pan flanges of the oil pan and cylinder block.
7. Before installing the oil pan, thoroughly clean the contact surfaces.
8. Apply sealant 08826-00080 or equivalent
Formed In-Place Gasket (FIPG) sealer to the oil pan. Parts should be assembled within 5 minutes of application, otherwise the sealer starts to skin over, looses it's effectiveness and must be removed and reapplied.
9. Install the oil pan and mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts and nuts to 9 ft. lbs (13 Nm).
10. Install the engine undercover.
11. Lower the vehicle.
12. Fill the engine with oil.
13. Connect the negative battery cable, start the engine, and check for leaks.
2. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
3. Remove the engine undercover.
4. Drain the engine oil.
5. Remove the 16 mounting bolts and two nuts to the oil pan.
6. Remove the oil pan from the engine.
Be careful not to damage the oil pan flanges of the oil pan and cylinder block.
7. Before installing the oil pan, thoroughly clean the contact surfaces.
8. Apply sealant 08826-00080 or equivalent
Formed In-Place Gasket (FIPG) sealer to the oil pan. Parts should be assembled within 5 minutes of application, otherwise the sealer starts to skin over, looses it's effectiveness and must be removed and reapplied.
9. Install the oil pan and mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts and nuts to 9 ft. lbs (13 Nm).
10. Install the engine undercover.
11. Lower the vehicle.
12. Fill the engine with oil.
13. Connect the negative battery cable, start the engine, and check for leaks.
Lining up my ducks, my biggest concern is:
Q: Does anyone know of a pictorial DIY for the oil filter bracket o-rings?
Note: I'll write the DIY if I have to, but, we're all better off if someone else has written the oil filter bracket o-rings DIY already.
02-13-2013 | 05:48 PM
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The passenger side of the oil pan is certainly wet and dripping, as is the engine above the oil pan and under the oil filter bracket extension housing - but I can not pinpoint WHERE the oil is emanating from.
I did go to Autozone for their UV dye kit, but they only sell the UV dye for air conditioning diagnostics - not for engine oil.
If the parts are easy enough to remove, there's probably no harm in replacing both o-rings in the oil filter bracket and in replacing the FIPG in the oil pan - but that's why I ask here, as I haven't found a pictorial DIY for either one yet.
02-13-2013 | 07:21 PM
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From: CA, Until TSHTF!
Well, If it was me and I couldn't find a pictorial I would use the the pic diagram you posted as a guide, it pretty much breaks it down, but that's just me.
I'm not trying to make it look simple or be cocky, but I'm confident that I could do it based just upon that pic diagram above.
My only concern and it's minor would be to get it high enough off the ground
to make it easier to work on.
I bet you can do it.
I'm not trying to make it look simple or be cocky, but I'm confident that I could do it based just upon that pic diagram above.
My only concern and it's minor would be to get it high enough off the ground
to make it easier to work on.
I bet you can do it.
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02-13-2013 | 08:15 PM
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From: Memphis, TN
Rocksockdoc, I commend you for your proper grammar and wide vocabulary. It brings a level of refinement most Internet communities lack.
Anyways! I agree in that this should be posted in the tech forums, but I also believe you pretty much have this situation wrapped up. Were it my truck and I had secondary transportation and the proper tools, I'd reseal both the oil filter gasket and the oil pan. Neither are too challenging, but merely time consuming. If you do them both, the problem is without a doubt fixed, assuming your predictions are correct. The parts aren't at all expensive and the process of resealing the oil pan is simple; search the forum for proper instructions. And hopefully the oil leak will disappear.
Welcome to YotaTech!
Anyways! I agree in that this should be posted in the tech forums, but I also believe you pretty much have this situation wrapped up. Were it my truck and I had secondary transportation and the proper tools, I'd reseal both the oil filter gasket and the oil pan. Neither are too challenging, but merely time consuming. If you do them both, the problem is without a doubt fixed, assuming your predictions are correct. The parts aren't at all expensive and the process of resealing the oil pan is simple; search the forum for proper instructions. And hopefully the oil leak will disappear.
Welcome to YotaTech!
02-14-2013 | 07:57 AM
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The funny thing is that I haven't found a DIY with pictures yet for the Toyota 3RZ-FE engine oil filter bracket o-ring replacement.
Since it's a common leak point, it's perplexing why this pictorial DIY doesn't exist (or, if it exists, why it's hard to locate).
The closest I can find is this ChildrenOfBodom (COB) oil leak thread, but it doesn't contain a DIY.
- YotaTech Forums > Toyota SUV & Truck Tech > 95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners > Oil Filter Housing Seal leak? also fuel filter
Since it's a common leak point, it's perplexing why this pictorial DIY doesn't exist (or, if it exists, why it's hard to locate).
The closest I can find is this ChildrenOfBodom (COB) oil leak thread, but it doesn't contain a DIY.
- YotaTech Forums > Toyota SUV & Truck Tech > 95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners > Oil Filter Housing Seal leak? also fuel filter
Last edited by rocksockdoc; 02-14-2013 at 08:21 AM.
02-14-2013 | 08:23 AM
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From: Memphis, TN
Your list of leak points are the common leak points, but it doesn't mean they show up very often. If you're having trouble finding anything at all for the filter or oil pan, it's likely the pictorial doesn't exist. The beauty about working on an engine, and more specifically with gaskets, is if you screw up, you can try again! I don't own your particular model truck and engine, but this process to repairing them is pretty much universal. Try searching other sources, but this repair may come down to using your human ingenuity.
02-14-2013 | 11:07 AM
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From: vermont
you can prolly just unbolt the pan and put on more fipg but you just cant clean off the old gasket easly, i had to drop my front diff to take out my oil pan and weld it around the bottom bump on the pan(i had to do other stuff on the front end too thats why i dropped it) because i had a bunch of pinhole leaks. did you check to make sure your using the correct filter before you have to replace the o-ring?
02-14-2013 | 05:45 PM
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I ran more searches, and, I am just shocked that there isn't a DIY for the oil filter bracket o-ring replacement. People have done it - they just haven't written the steps.
Generally that means that it's obvious - although that is merely my observation and not a definitive conclusion. I will write the DIY when I perform the task (I need to find time where the vehicle can be down for a few days, just in case I screw up.)
I'm also surprised that there isn't a pictorial DIY for the 2WD 3RZ-FE 5-speed manual oil pan R&R - but at least those bolts can be more easily seen and accessed than the oil filter bracket bolts.
I'll keep lining up my ducks ... thanks for your advice - which I appreciate greatly as I do realize that nobody has to help anyone here.
02-14-2013 | 06:20 PM
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From: Memphis, TN
http://www.experts123.com/q/how-do-y...ta-tacoma.html
Check that out. It doesn't apply directly to the 4Runner, but the Tacoma shouldn't be too mechanically different.
Check that out. It doesn't apply directly to the 4Runner, but the Tacoma shouldn't be too mechanically different.
02-14-2013 | 06:31 PM
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From: vermont
that link is dumb and open ended if your truck is a 2wd the pan should drop right out because theres no axle in the way other wise you have to ethier lift the engine or drop the front end. it is possible to replace the gasket with out lifting the engine or droping the axle but it is an extrememly tight space to work and difficult to clean the old gasket off.
02-15-2013 | 08:19 AM
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For the oil pan, the good news is that it's the 2WD 4Runner, so the only bolts that 'look' hard are those near the 5-speed manual transmission housing.
I'm waiting for a warm day where I have at least two days (just in case I screw up).
The oil filter bracket worries me more so than the oil pan - because there are NO instructions anywhere (not in the FSM, not in the Chiltons, and not, so far, on the net).
It's odd that such a common engine (3RZ-FE) doesn't have a single oil filter bracket o-ring DIY on the planet. Very odd.
I'm waiting for a warm day where I have at least two days (just in case I screw up).
The oil filter bracket worries me more so than the oil pan - because there are NO instructions anywhere (not in the FSM, not in the Chiltons, and not, so far, on the net).
It's odd that such a common engine (3RZ-FE) doesn't have a single oil filter bracket o-ring DIY on the planet. Very odd.
02-15-2013 | 08:44 AM
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From: vermont
theres a inspection plate you can take off the bellhousing to get to those bolts easier its made out of thin metal and rubber. and it looks like theres only three bolts that hold on that oil filter bracket, you should be able to take off the inner fender and tire and get to the oil filter stuff that way it will be more of a straight shot.
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