Head gasket bores are typically somewhat larger than the cylinder bore so i would expect it to be ok, but if you have your old head gasket you could measure bore on that one. Aftermarket Manufacturers show bore diameter, compressed thickness and other details in their data but i don’t know where you would find that info for the stock gasket, maybe with somebody like 22re performance.

 

I like your backyard blueprinting. Did you measure weight of each piston/rod assembly by any chance? I once had a 22re balanced during rebuild and it was amazing how noticeable it was.

 

Thank you, I’ll measure the old one.
The block was decked along with the head, im unsure of how much was removed tho.
hoping that using a standard oem head gasket thickness will be okay.

 

I did not, but the rods and pistons are both new from LCE and believe they are all pretty close to the same weight.

 

Something strange I noticed... on the first crank I was sent (was a 10 under crank), all of the oil galley plugs say flush with the hole opening once tightened..
On this new standard crank (was sent a new crank.. long story), one of the plugs sunk so deep into the threads. Anyone seen this before? I won’t be blocking off any oil galleys will I? The plug threaded in so easily at first and only tightened up once sunk this deep into the threads. Just seemed funky to me. Hopefully no big deal.

 

Can you take it out, measure the depth of the hole, and measure the thickness of the plug? Did the original plug have a shoulder or something to actually tighten against? What normally actually gets tight? Tapered thread? Is red LocTite recommended to keep it from backing out?

 

I can do that. I asked the company I got it from(LCE) and they said there shouldn’t be any problem with blocking passageways. But it’s just weird the crank I had before this, all the plugs sat perfectly flush.
They did say they are all tapered threads, and each plug came with the lock tite already on the plug threads.

 

Got the engine assembled and just a few more things to button up before I can drop it in.

-Waiting in oil pickup tube gasket so I can mount the pan permantently

-undo driveshaft and scoot trans back for easier mating

-solder a new injector clip on (one is broke)







Ill still have a lot to do before being able to start it after installing the engine

-Ship injectors out for service

-install new LCE header and downpipe


-replace seals inside P.S. pump and get new pulley (broke mine accidentally)

-order a full OE Toyota tune up kit

-order break in oil etc etc etc etc etc




Hoping to do the first start up sometime in December (still going check to check)




I installed the plenum but am curious, will I be able to drop the engine in this way and still be able to get to everything? Injectors etc etc

or did I mess up by installing plenum now?




Also, if anyone here happens to have a good power steering pump pulley, I’m interested. Broke mine trying to get it off to rebuild the pump. (Any tips for removal of pulley?)




Including pics of other progress made on the truck

 

You should have plenty of room to install with plenum on, I've done it 3x like that.

 

Awesome, good deal. Is there anything else you install while on the stand to make life easier ?
Fuel injectors?

 

 

Thanks! Dang that sucks. They make these hand held impacts you hit with a hammer and you can get Allen heads for it. Probably would’ve been a good tool for that job. Picked one up at Lowe’s for under $20. Has come in handy very often. Good luck!

 

Well shoot, I’m not sure if I’ve ever noticed something like that, could you post a link? The two left I couldn’t get out are nice and stripped now thanks to my 1/4” impact. Also how do you like that POR paint, have you used it in the past? My lease ends in January so planning on moving into a bigger space next where I can take my ugly bed off and do some deep cleaning

*edit* pretty sure I found that hand driven impact. Pretty cool, definitely never seen that before. One more question though.... what timing kit did you go with? I’m still shopping for mine

 

Here’s a pic of it. Def a good tool to have reguardless. And my timing kit was from LCE. I forget what brand they use. OSK or something? I’ll check here shortly.
Whatever you get, just get a good quality one. I used nothing but oem and lce parts so far.

 

To answer your question about por-15..
It is great and durable stuff. I like it. But prep is so important for it to work right. I spent hours and hours scrubbing with degreaser, wire wheeling everything down to bare metal, scrubbing with degreaser again, keeping wet with por-15 Metal prep for 20 min to etch the metal to get the best results. It’s a hell of a lot of work but worth it in my opinion.
ive still got to do the inside and underside of the bed as well as patch a rust hole in the bed floor before putting it back on the truck. Thinking of usInt the pot-15 again but not sure yet.

 

How’s it going? I got my oil plugs on the crank removed finally and picked up some new plugs from a local place. Someone told me to use NPT which are tapered and the plugs LCE have are JSPT, which you found out from them are tapered. Just seems strange if they were tapered I would think yours wouldn’t have sunk so far down. Anyways the plugs I picked up locally aren’t NPT but are JSPT and I had just one start to sink down past flush. Coated it with high temp sealer and a lil touch of red locker