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Rebuilding the 22re in my truck currently. Will post the process as I go along. Am already down to the bare block so have skipped some, but there’s plenty left to show.
The truck odometer says 115k miles. Pics show the wear along the sides of the cylinders. I started tearing it down due to the broken timing chain, leaking water pump and bad valve seals. But as I got into it, decided to go all the way. (A problem I have lol)
Having trouble. Attaching videos, any tips?
Any input, tips, tricks and things you wish you knew before your first build, please share. Thanks! Liking this forum a lot so far.
Last edited by MasterOfNone; 03-06-2019 at 09:26 PM.
Best tip I can give you it to take your time and pay attention to the little things, read the build up's others have posted.
Maybe I missed it but what year is the engine?
Best tip I can give you it to take your time and pay attention to the little things, read the build up's others have posted.
Maybe I missed it but what year is the engine?
I think the easiest way to post a video is to upload it to YouTube and post the YouTube link here.
The advice above about taking your time and paying attention to the details is good. High quality parts are a must.
[/QUOTE
Thanks! I’ve been using all OEM parts so far and will continue to do so.
Just dropped off the block/crank/Head/camshaft/Pistons & rods at the machine shop yesterday.
They didn’t seem too happy that I only wanted them to do the machining and I’d be using my own parts(from LCE).. but are going to do it for me still.
Gave them LCE’s tech line phone # and spoke with lce to have them make contact with the shop as well.
Hoping all goes well with the shop and communication stays good.
Having the shop bore as little as possible for what the cylinders need to “clean up”. Also waiting to hear if the crank needs machining or just polishing.
the cam looks okay besides a small rust spot or 2 but waiting to hear what they say about it.
Its been difficult setting up things with the machine shop as I’m a motor newbie and they are country folk(don’t seem to like my approach).
Ive let them know I’m just ocd and am spending a lot of $ and want to keep communication completely open in order to have it go right the first time.
Will keep updating this thread as i hear more. In the meantime here are some things I’ll be working on...
*Cleaning up & painting the oil pan
*Taking apart and replacing the seals on the leaky power steering pump
*Taking apart, cleaning up and rebuilding the alternator(probably just brushes)
*Removing driveshaft and sliding the trans back to make dropping the engine in easier (some of the bolt hoes were a bit shot from the last time I replaced the clutch(may need to drill and re-tap some
*Degreasing and cleaning up the engine bay
*Touching up minor rust spots under the radiator and anywhere else I see
*Rebuilding the idler arm
*Sending injectors out to witchhunter
*Removing broken slave cyl mounting bolt and replacing both with new ones
*Cleaning up & painting random parts/brackets
*Ordering lots of parts from LCE after hearing back from machine shop
It would also be a good time to check the condition of the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor, the Throttle Position Sensor, the Air Flow Meter, and the Cold Start Injector Timer.
It would also be a good time to check the condition of the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor, the Throttle Position Sensor, the Air Flow Meter, and the Cold Start Injector Timer.
I will look up how to test those. Thanks! Probably gonna just get a new TPS from 22reperformance. Tried to adjust mine and it may be on its last legs.
Nice.. What does the clutch look like now, engine mounts in good shape?
Ever want to change your gauge cluster to an sr5?
On mine the oil sender was inside the bracket of the passenger side engine mount.
Moved it to the non-used plug near the oil filter.(remember if make the change you must change out the oil sender to the correct one)
Clean up the engine bay while the motor is out, maybe paint some?
Nice.. What does the clutch look like now, engine mounts in good shape?
Ever want to change your gauge cluster to an sr5?
On mine the oil sender was inside the bracket of the passenger side engine mount.
Moved it to the non-used plug near the oil filter.(remember if make the change you must change out the oil sender to the correct one)
Clean up the engine bay while the motor is out, maybe paint some?
The clutch only has about 5k miles on it so is good. It’s a Marin kit with a new flywheel. TThe mounts will be replaced before dropping it back in. Never thought about switching the gauge cluster. Like to keep the original odeometet in there. I believe the oil sending unit on mine was next to the oil filter already.
Just posting some things I’ve been tinkering with while waiting for the block/Head to get done at the machine shop.
The crank needing to be turned so I opted to just get a new one from LCE.
Waiting to hear word on how much bore was needed t order pistons and the rest of the parts.
Going check to check right now so progress will be slow.
Some thigns ive done-
Cleaned & tested EGR and am currently removing rust & painting.
Cleaned/treated rust and painted the heater bypass pipe and air injection pipe that runs on the manifold.
Cleaned/treated rust on oil pan. Waiting for the block so I can paint them both at the same time with 2k high temp spray paint from Eastwood I ordered.
Cleaned up inside/outside of valve cover mostly. Going to sandblast the outside and paint the same time I paint the block/oil pan.
Cleaned up the oily alternator (from leaky P.S. pump/have to get new one as when I tried to replace seals I damaged it) also putting new brushes in the alt while it’s out and dismantled.
The only only thing I’m questioning currently is how hard it’ll be getting all the parts back on after waiting probably months since dismantling lol. But sure it’ll go smooth.
Have order lists ready for LCE and 22re performance.
Just waiting on funds.
After learning all of this and if/when everything runs smooth after.. I plan to find an old 4Runner to fully restore slowly from the ground up. Would love a 1986 with a solid front axle. Dreams
Chime in with any more input for a first time engine rebuilder before I start putting the motor back together. Still a tad nervous.
Still waiting for the motor to be finished at the machine shop. Probably will take a few more weeks. They had a 2-8 week wait for work when I dropped it off.
Ive gotten a lot of little things done in the meantime and found some other projects needing done on the truck, the big one being the rust under the bed.
-Installed a headlight relay & wiring upgrade to solve my flickering and dim headlight issue
-Got the LCE Pro Flow exaust system including header and new high flow cat
-Started tinting the Windows
-Painted valve cover and other parts
-Cleaned up bolts and polished many small parts
-Saving $ for the rest
just wanted to give a little update. Will post with more once I receive the engine and order the engine build components.
Just picked up the motor from the mAchine shop earlier today. It took .20 to clean the walls up. Both the block & head tested out to be GOOD. Had the valve seats cut and the camshaft polished. The journals were cross hatch honed like the cylinder walls.
Attached a pic of my parts list and wondering if I should add rods or just re use the stock ones with 116k miles on them. What do you all think(I’m sure stocks will be fine, just asking your thoughts on this)?
Not getting much feedback on this thread lately but will continue to post updates as I go.
-Check our the “Trello” app. It’s very handy with organizing different projects and to do lists. I use it for work as well-
Last edited by MasterOfNone; 04-25-2019 at 05:43 PM.
Reason: Learned something new
Cross hatching doesn't look too bad. I have only seen a few though. Several people on here have tons more experience than me. Hopefully they chime in soo
I remember seeing drawings of the ideal pattern in old Chiltons or Haynes or maybe even the Toyota service manual. I don't have one to reference in front of me but the pattern looks to memory anyway to be about right. I'd be more concerned if you had done it yourself so i think I would trust the shop. I don't think it varies much one engine make to the next. But I'm not a machinist.
Last edited by Melrose 4r; 04-26-2019 at 12:37 PM.
From what I learned after posting this, it should be fine. I guess in my mind, just expected something a little different. But I’m a newbie still trying to learn.
Gonna order the bottom end parts on payday and get to putting things together.
Have studied a lot while awaiting machine work, but still could learn more I’m sure.
Anyone else feel the harbor freight torque wrenches are accurate enough for the important torque specs?
It was less than $20 so makes me wonder. Any ideas of how to test it’s accurancy if you feel they are insufficient for the job?
They carry a $100 one that might be better or the same idk.
What are your thoughts on this? Want my torque specs to be right but also have spent a lot and still have to spend a lot on parts. The $ is adding up lol.
I remember seeing drawings of the ideal pattern in old Chiltons or Haynes or maybe even the Toyota service manual. I don't have one to reference in front of me but the pattern looks to memory anyway to be about right. I'd be more concerned if you had done it yourself so i think I would trust the shop. I don't think it varies much one engine make to the next. But I'm not a machinist.
I listened to the 'experts' at the machine shop who assured me that the fine hone they put on my 22RE block would be OK. They said they always finish with 400 grit stones.
I should have followed my gut and honed it myself with the 220 grit stones I always have used with 100% success in the past
After 4000 miles, smoking substantially and consuming a quart of oil in 4-5 hundred miles.
Just opened it back up, honed with my coarse hone and set some new rings. only 180 miles so far but I expect success.
I listened to the 'experts' at the machine shop who assured me that the fine hone they put on my 22RE block would be OK. They said they always finish with 400 grit stones.
I should have followed my gut and honed it myself with the 220 grit stones I always have used with 100% success in the past
After 4000 miles, smoking substantially and consuming a quart of oil in 4-5 hundred miles.
Just opened it back up, honed with my coarse hone and set some new rings. only 180 miles so far but I expect success.
Yea I read that link a while back too and a very long thread from Ted at Egnbldr was a big part of. From that info gathering a long with other sources, I expected a rougher finish. I’m goimg to call the machine shop and ask what grit they finish their hone with on Monday. LCE is calling me back Monday (great company) to let me in on some more info on how they do their blocks (for cast pistons).
Heres some pics of a finished motor that A guy from LCE emailed me. There’s a lot more overlapping crosshatch going on on their motor compared to mine as far as I can see. Mine don’t really appear to have much of that overlapping pattern. Most the the cylinder wall seems to have one set of grooves sloping down, and then those different angled groves meet at 2 points of the wall(180 degrees from each other) but don’t overlap very much if at all in some places.
Gonna hope for more feedback on this thread and do some more research before continuing with the build. Do not want to have to pull anything apart after spending all of this $. Thank you for your reply.
Last edited by MasterOfNone; 04-26-2019 at 04:43 PM.
03-06-2019 | 09:24 PM
