a few clutch questions
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: chippawa niagara falls ontario
Posts: 3,278
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
a few clutch questions
do i have to drain the tranmission when i take it out to do the clutch? do i support the engine with a block of wood on a jack under the oil pan??
do i have to remove the starter??? if i dont have a tranny jack a bout what part of the tranny should i place my normal floor jack so its level??
do i have to remove the starter??? if i dont have a tranny jack a bout what part of the tranny should i place my normal floor jack so its level??
#2
Registered User
first off...find a tranny jack..and rent that dude....that is THE BEST thing i have ever delt with...it took me and my dad about 2 hrs to get my L43 stabbed the first time..then we had to take it back down...then when we went to put it back in...we rented a tranny jack...got it done in less than 15 mins...i dont think you have to drain the tranny....oil pan isnt very strong....pick something else if you can...if not...then i think it will work...i have seen some crunched oil pans from doing the exact same thing...only without the block of wood..lol..good luck!
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: chippawa niagara falls ontario
Posts: 3,278
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
it said the do the oil pan in my hayes manual... and i will tyr and rent a tranny jack... i wonder if part source has it.. i also have to find a clutch allignment tool as my kit didnt come with one
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: chippawa niagara falls ontario
Posts: 3,278
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
also im putting a welded rear and maybe a lock right in the front.. would it be easyer to do it all at once?? do i have to mark anything when i remove them ??? or can i bolt up the drive shafts and stuff any way??
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: chippawa niagara falls ontario
Posts: 3,278
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
BUMP im trying to pull tranny today so any help would be great... im going to make a adapter for my floor jack and rachet strap it... i also found a clutch alignment tool on rent a tool so ill get that once i get the flywheel machined...
so im going to place a jack under oil pan or other part of engine.
take out shifter crap in car
put truck on jack stands
should i take off the tires?
also im gonna put in my welded diff too so should i tkae out the whole rear drive shaft or do the clutch first???
do you need to make driveline?
i have haynes manual and fsm and yotatech in my garage so im ready!!
so im going to place a jack under oil pan or other part of engine.
take out shifter crap in car
put truck on jack stands
should i take off the tires?
also im gonna put in my welded diff too so should i tkae out the whole rear drive shaft or do the clutch first???
do you need to make driveline?
i have haynes manual and fsm and yotatech in my garage so im ready!!
#6
Registered User
You won't have to drain the tranny. You can get a clutch alignment tool for $2 at Advance Auto (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...e=467&PTSet=A). I got one last month when I did my engine swap. Using an adapter with your floor jack should work just fine. I used my atv jack to support the tranny when doing the swap. I took off my tires because the picker wouldn't clear the fenders with them on, and to make it easier to work on (not so high in the air). You might as well replace your throwout bearing while you have it apart. I would say change the pilot bearing but it's a pain to get it out of the back of the engine.
Rob
Rob
Last edited by rdlsz24; 04-18-2008 at 08:16 AM.
#7
Contributing Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Solano Co, CA Originally a North Idaho Hick
Posts: 4,267
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
do i have to drain the tranmission when i take it out to do the clutch? do i support the engine with a block of wood on a jack under the oil pan??
do i have to remove the starter??? if i dont have a tranny jack a bout what part of the tranny should i place my normal floor jack so its level??
do i have to remove the starter??? if i dont have a tranny jack a bout what part of the tranny should i place my normal floor jack so its level??
Trending Topics
#8
Contributing Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: phoenix
Posts: 1,137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Put the car on jack stands first. Get it up off the ground a good ways so you have room to work
Remove the front wheels, it will be easier to access the starter and bellhousing bolts.
Have fun!
Remove the front wheels, it will be easier to access the starter and bellhousing bolts.
Have fun!
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: chippawa niagara falls ontario
Posts: 3,278
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
yes im more mechanically inclined than that post makes me out to be.. i was in a rush on my way out the door when i wrote that...
so i made a tranny jack by putting a 1 inch thick 1 foot long peice of wood screwed to my floor jack and i am going to wrachet to strap the tranny...
i have the truck on 2 jack stands 2 under the rear axle and 2 under the front cross bar...
i have the factory service manual and a hanyes and yotatech all in the garage... i have the pilot bearing throw out bearing.. im planning on dropping tranny this weekend.. getting the fly wheel done next week and putting it back in next weekend... this is only my trail rig and first time doing a clutch... it will be good to know incase my dd needs a clutch some time.. i have a rachet that bends and 24-36 inches in extension.. air or hand tools.. im gonna go through and disconnect all wires first by following fsm...
thanks for the help keep the post coming
so i made a tranny jack by putting a 1 inch thick 1 foot long peice of wood screwed to my floor jack and i am going to wrachet to strap the tranny...
i have the truck on 2 jack stands 2 under the rear axle and 2 under the front cross bar...
i have the factory service manual and a hanyes and yotatech all in the garage... i have the pilot bearing throw out bearing.. im planning on dropping tranny this weekend.. getting the fly wheel done next week and putting it back in next weekend... this is only my trail rig and first time doing a clutch... it will be good to know incase my dd needs a clutch some time.. i have a rachet that bends and 24-36 inches in extension.. air or hand tools.. im gonna go through and disconnect all wires first by following fsm...
thanks for the help keep the post coming
#10
Contributing Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Solano Co, CA Originally a North Idaho Hick
Posts: 4,267
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Kind of figured that or you would not have even tried but you never know sometimes... Good luck with your project. An impact gun on the bellhousing bolts will help a ton if you have access to one. The hardest part is getting everything lined back up when you put it back together.
#11
Contributing Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: phoenix
Posts: 1,137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Have fun with the pilot bearing!!!
I tried the grease trick, with no luck, but hindsight being 20/20 I came up with an idea that might make the removal easy.
Get a second clutch alignment tool and cut off the handle thing, grind it flat. Insert the grease into the cavity and use the modified alignment tool to tap the thing out. The skinny end of the alignment tool is sized perfect to go in the little hole.
I tried the grease trick, with no luck, but hindsight being 20/20 I came up with an idea that might make the removal easy.
Get a second clutch alignment tool and cut off the handle thing, grind it flat. Insert the grease into the cavity and use the modified alignment tool to tap the thing out. The skinny end of the alignment tool is sized perfect to go in the little hole.
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: chippawa niagara falls ontario
Posts: 3,278
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
well if i have trouble getting out the pilot beaing i might not change it.. its just a trail truck i dont see it being a problem.. i have a impact gun and a full garage of tools.. i made a sweet tranny jack that im def gonna take pics of using a beefy board and ratchet straps should make getting it in nice and level a snap... if thise takes me 3 weeks guys ill get it done!!! but i dont see it taking me more than a day or 2.. plus i can always call in some help!!! i have lots of friends.. but a boys gotta learn sometime.. and if i can fix plasma tvs and computers all day i can fix my trail truck!
does anyone know how many bolts and all the locations just so i know
like bellhousing rear drive shaft... it would really give me peice of mind to make sure i have everything before i pull it out
yt is the best ill say it again!
does anyone know how many bolts and all the locations just so i know
like bellhousing rear drive shaft... it would really give me peice of mind to make sure i have everything before i pull it out
yt is the best ill say it again!
Last edited by bigt; 04-18-2008 at 04:42 PM.
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 238
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
if you go through all the touble to change the clutch you should definitely change the pilot bearing while your there. imagine how pissed you would be if it went bad cause you didn't change it. they have specific tools for pulling those. you can rent them at some parts stores, with the right tool it takes about 10 seconds to pull that. you don't need to drain the tranny or t-case but while you're there it may be a good time to do it. my chilton said to drain both (not sure why) and so i did without thinking about it and the t-case fill bolt was all screwed up so it turned a 1 day job into a long weekend job. if you do drain the fluids make sure you can get the fill bolts open first! if i recall the hardest part about the whole change is getting the tranny to align with the bellhousing. make sure the tranny is securely fastened to your jack cause it can be a frustrating job and if your like me you might get the tendancy to start kicking things. good luck.
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: chippawa niagara falls ontario
Posts: 3,278
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
im already renting the clutch alignment tool so i will see if they have pilot bearing puller... i have the bearing so ill do it...
should i mark the driveshaft?
should i mark the driveshaft?
#15
Registered User
I put a new clutch in my 86 4runner a few weeks ago.
I would definitely install a new pilot bearing.
I would replace the rear main seal, $35.00 from Toyota .
I would replace the transmission input shaft seal, $7.00 from Toyota.
Mark the front and rear driveshafts.
Use plastic bags and a marker to keep track of bolts.
It really helps to have a 19mm swivel 1/2" drive socket and about 3' of extensions to get the top two tranny bolts out
Make sure to clean the flywheel and pressure plate with brake or carb cleaner before you bolt up the pressure plate.
Good luck, enjoy your new clutch.
Robb
I used a tranny jack and it took about 10 minutes to get the trans back in working by myself.
I would definitely install a new pilot bearing.
I would replace the rear main seal, $35.00 from Toyota .
I would replace the transmission input shaft seal, $7.00 from Toyota.
Mark the front and rear driveshafts.
Use plastic bags and a marker to keep track of bolts.
It really helps to have a 19mm swivel 1/2" drive socket and about 3' of extensions to get the top two tranny bolts out
Make sure to clean the flywheel and pressure plate with brake or carb cleaner before you bolt up the pressure plate.
Good luck, enjoy your new clutch.
Robb
I used a tranny jack and it took about 10 minutes to get the trans back in working by myself.
#17
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Glenville, NY
Posts: 513
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good luck.
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: chippawa niagara falls ontario
Posts: 3,278
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
cool yet i have one of those ounchs taht you just push and it clicks and leaves a mark... im gonna start pb blasting all the bolts i can see right now and try and find all the connectors...
keep the advice coming this is turning out to be a great clutch thread for newbs!!! im going to be posting pictures in this thread shortly!
keep the advice coming this is turning out to be a great clutch thread for newbs!!! im going to be posting pictures in this thread shortly!
#19
The hard part on this one is that the tranny is tough to balance on a jack. The tcase makes the right side heavy and the balance point is not at a flat spot on the tranny. 2 jacks helps. You can also run a ratchet strap through the open doors, over the tunnel, and then back under the truck to at least hold the front half of the tranny up when things get weird on the jack. Shoot, 2 ratchet straps might be easier than the jack.
The top 2 bell housing bolts are no sweat IF you lower the back of the tranny down and have 3 feet of extension and a wobble head or integrated U 19mm socket.
The top 2 bell housing bolts are no sweat IF you lower the back of the tranny down and have 3 feet of extension and a wobble head or integrated U 19mm socket.
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: chippawa niagara falls ontario
Posts: 3,278
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
HELP.. i have all the bolts out and the tranny jack under its taking the weight but i cant remove the tranny from the engine???? do i stick a chisel or pry bar and bfh them and pry apart??? when i wiggle from the trnasfer case it moves the engine and everything .... i thenplaced a jack under then engine no luck there either..
i wanna do those TODAY!!!
thanks
i wanna do those TODAY!!!
thanks