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Old 04-17-2008, 07:25 PM
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a few clutch questions

do i have to drain the tranmission when i take it out to do the clutch? do i support the engine with a block of wood on a jack under the oil pan??
do i have to remove the starter??? if i dont have a tranny jack a bout what part of the tranny should i place my normal floor jack so its level??
Old 04-17-2008, 07:31 PM
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first off...find a tranny jack..and rent that dude....that is THE BEST thing i have ever delt with...it took me and my dad about 2 hrs to get my L43 stabbed the first time..then we had to take it back down...then when we went to put it back in...we rented a tranny jack...got it done in less than 15 mins...i dont think you have to drain the tranny....oil pan isnt very strong....pick something else if you can...if not...then i think it will work...i have seen some crunched oil pans from doing the exact same thing...only without the block of wood..lol..good luck!
Old 04-17-2008, 07:41 PM
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it said the do the oil pan in my hayes manual... and i will tyr and rent a tranny jack... i wonder if part source has it.. i also have to find a clutch allignment tool as my kit didnt come with one
Old 04-17-2008, 07:54 PM
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also im putting a welded rear and maybe a lock right in the front.. would it be easyer to do it all at once?? do i have to mark anything when i remove them ??? or can i bolt up the drive shafts and stuff any way??
Old 04-18-2008, 07:48 AM
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BUMP im trying to pull tranny today so any help would be great... im going to make a adapter for my floor jack and rachet strap it... i also found a clutch alignment tool on rent a tool so ill get that once i get the flywheel machined...

so im going to place a jack under oil pan or other part of engine.
take out shifter crap in car
put truck on jack stands

should i take off the tires?
also im gonna put in my welded diff too so should i tkae out the whole rear drive shaft or do the clutch first???
do you need to make driveline?

i have haynes manual and fsm and yotatech in my garage so im ready!!
Old 04-18-2008, 08:10 AM
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You won't have to drain the tranny. You can get a clutch alignment tool for $2 at Advance Auto (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...e=467&PTSet=A). I got one last month when I did my engine swap. Using an adapter with your floor jack should work just fine. I used my atv jack to support the tranny when doing the swap. I took off my tires because the picker wouldn't clear the fenders with them on, and to make it easier to work on (not so high in the air). You might as well replace your throwout bearing while you have it apart. I would say change the pilot bearing but it's a pain to get it out of the back of the engine.

Rob

Last edited by rdlsz24; 04-18-2008 at 08:16 AM.
Old 04-18-2008, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by bigt
do i have to drain the tranmission when i take it out to do the clutch? do i support the engine with a block of wood on a jack under the oil pan??
do i have to remove the starter??? if i dont have a tranny jack a bout what part of the tranny should i place my normal floor jack so its level??
Get a Factory Service manual or at the very least a haynes or chilton. I'm hoping your more mechanically inclined than this post makes you out to be or your in for a heck of a project. Please dont' crush yourself with your tranny. Get some friends together to help you out it'll go easier. Manhandling a tranny back onto the bellhousing by yourself can be a chore.
Old 04-18-2008, 08:50 AM
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Put the car on jack stands first. Get it up off the ground a good ways so you have room to work

Remove the front wheels, it will be easier to access the starter and bellhousing bolts.

Have fun!
Old 04-18-2008, 08:51 AM
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yes im more mechanically inclined than that post makes me out to be.. i was in a rush on my way out the door when i wrote that...

so i made a tranny jack by putting a 1 inch thick 1 foot long peice of wood screwed to my floor jack and i am going to wrachet to strap the tranny...

i have the truck on 2 jack stands 2 under the rear axle and 2 under the front cross bar...
i have the factory service manual and a hanyes and yotatech all in the garage... i have the pilot bearing throw out bearing.. im planning on dropping tranny this weekend.. getting the fly wheel done next week and putting it back in next weekend... this is only my trail rig and first time doing a clutch... it will be good to know incase my dd needs a clutch some time.. i have a rachet that bends and 24-36 inches in extension.. air or hand tools.. im gonna go through and disconnect all wires first by following fsm...

thanks for the help keep the post coming
Old 04-18-2008, 09:23 AM
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Kind of figured that or you would not have even tried but you never know sometimes... Good luck with your project. An impact gun on the bellhousing bolts will help a ton if you have access to one. The hardest part is getting everything lined back up when you put it back together.
Old 04-18-2008, 10:39 AM
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Have fun with the pilot bearing!!!

I tried the grease trick, with no luck, but hindsight being 20/20 I came up with an idea that might make the removal easy.

Get a second clutch alignment tool and cut off the handle thing, grind it flat. Insert the grease into the cavity and use the modified alignment tool to tap the thing out. The skinny end of the alignment tool is sized perfect to go in the little hole.
Old 04-18-2008, 04:40 PM
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well if i have trouble getting out the pilot beaing i might not change it.. its just a trail truck i dont see it being a problem.. i have a impact gun and a full garage of tools.. i made a sweet tranny jack that im def gonna take pics of using a beefy board and ratchet straps should make getting it in nice and level a snap... if thise takes me 3 weeks guys ill get it done!!! but i dont see it taking me more than a day or 2.. plus i can always call in some help!!! i have lots of friends.. but a boys gotta learn sometime.. and if i can fix plasma tvs and computers all day i can fix my trail truck!


does anyone know how many bolts and all the locations just so i know
like bellhousing rear drive shaft... it would really give me peice of mind to make sure i have everything before i pull it out

yt is the best ill say it again!

Last edited by bigt; 04-18-2008 at 04:42 PM.
Old 04-18-2008, 05:25 PM
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if you go through all the touble to change the clutch you should definitely change the pilot bearing while your there. imagine how pissed you would be if it went bad cause you didn't change it. they have specific tools for pulling those. you can rent them at some parts stores, with the right tool it takes about 10 seconds to pull that. you don't need to drain the tranny or t-case but while you're there it may be a good time to do it. my chilton said to drain both (not sure why) and so i did without thinking about it and the t-case fill bolt was all screwed up so it turned a 1 day job into a long weekend job. if you do drain the fluids make sure you can get the fill bolts open first! if i recall the hardest part about the whole change is getting the tranny to align with the bellhousing. make sure the tranny is securely fastened to your jack cause it can be a frustrating job and if your like me you might get the tendancy to start kicking things. good luck.
Old 04-18-2008, 05:33 PM
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im already renting the clutch alignment tool so i will see if they have pilot bearing puller... i have the bearing so ill do it...
should i mark the driveshaft?
Old 04-18-2008, 07:19 PM
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I put a new clutch in my 86 4runner a few weeks ago.

I would definitely install a new pilot bearing.

I would replace the rear main seal, $35.00 from Toyota .

I would replace the transmission input shaft seal, $7.00 from Toyota.

Mark the front and rear driveshafts.

Use plastic bags and a marker to keep track of bolts.

It really helps to have a 19mm swivel 1/2" drive socket and about 3' of extensions to get the top two tranny bolts out

Make sure to clean the flywheel and pressure plate with brake or carb cleaner before you bolt up the pressure plate.

Good luck, enjoy your new clutch.
Robb


I used a tranny jack and it took about 10 minutes to get the trans back in working by myself.
Old 04-18-2008, 07:31 PM
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that advice about the 19mm swivel is EXACTLY WHAT IM LOOKING FOR
thank you man...

im gonna battle it. and win
Old 04-19-2008, 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by bigt
im already renting the clutch alignment tool so i will see if they have pilot bearing puller... i have the bearing so ill do it...
should i mark the driveshaft?
Use a simple center punch tool to mark both flanges on each end of the drive shafts so they can be put back together in the same orientation. When you bolt the pressure plate and clutch to the flywheel, leave the bolts loose, until you get the clutch disk aligned properly with the alignment tool, then tighten the bolts in a cross pattern so the pressure plate goes in evenly. Also, coat the pilot bearing, clutch disk splines, and input shaft splines with a light coat of grease to make reassembly easier. When putting the trans/bellhousing back in place, I have found it much easier to use a set of guide pins made from a couple of longer bolts the same thread as the bellhousing bolts, with the heads ground off. Thread them into the left and right holes in the back of the engine (make sure they thread in and out real easy first). I also cut a slot in the ends so I can use a screwdriver to remove them once the rest fo the bolts are in place. Use them to help align the bellhousing and engine when mating them together. Lastly, don't force the belhousing to the engine using the bolts. If you have everything aligned properly, it should mate easily. If it doesn't go together easily, you have something off. Pull it down and check everything again. If you force it together with the bolts, you might break something you won't be happy about.

Good luck.
Old 04-19-2008, 08:01 AM
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cool yet i have one of those ounchs taht you just push and it clicks and leaves a mark... im gonna start pb blasting all the bolts i can see right now and try and find all the connectors...

keep the advice coming this is turning out to be a great clutch thread for newbs!!! im going to be posting pictures in this thread shortly!
Old 04-22-2008, 08:14 AM
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The hard part on this one is that the tranny is tough to balance on a jack. The tcase makes the right side heavy and the balance point is not at a flat spot on the tranny. 2 jacks helps. You can also run a ratchet strap through the open doors, over the tunnel, and then back under the truck to at least hold the front half of the tranny up when things get weird on the jack. Shoot, 2 ratchet straps might be easier than the jack.

The top 2 bell housing bolts are no sweat IF you lower the back of the tranny down and have 3 feet of extension and a wobble head or integrated U 19mm socket.
Old 05-18-2008, 05:05 AM
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HELP.. i have all the bolts out and the tranny jack under its taking the weight but i cant remove the tranny from the engine???? do i stick a chisel or pry bar and bfh them and pry apart??? when i wiggle from the trnasfer case it moves the engine and everything .... i thenplaced a jack under then engine no luck there either..

i wanna do those TODAY!!!

thanks


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