I bought an OEM fuel filter and read up about it and was convinced I could handle it.

Yet 5 hours later I threw in the towel and spliced in some rubber fuel hose and clamps and will let an expert install the filter for me.

Make me feel stupid please....


It's compression fittings mating to flared fuel lines at both ends of the filter. I mated up the lines and hand threaded them up and just can not stop the leak at the engine side of the filter (that is the out side of the filter) no matter how little or how much I tighten them up with the 14mm wrench.

Is a flare wrench really the secret here? I am off to Irbis Off Road at crack of dawn Denver time to see for myself....

And anyone have an opinion regarding use of anti seize on the fittings?-it just seemed to make some sense to me, but I never see it mentioned anywhere.

Go on - I can take it...mechanics was never my inclination.

I should never have tried this without my 17 year old at home, or the other car running ....

 

I just changed my 96 4Runner's fuel filter today, It took me about 50 mins. It had leaks on both sides when I first started the engine and I was like "this is it." Turned off the engine and re-tighten both fittings then job well done!

***You must use a flare wrench to tighten them well without worrying to damage the fittings. I bought a one set from Harbor Freight for $8.

 

mines got 189k on it if it ain't broke dont waste hours trying to get it off

 

Elton you will be amazed how much smoother your throttle response is once the filter is changed out.

Mine was loaded with some brown crud and right at 4 years old. I had it done when I first bought the truck at 41K miles and now again at around 96K miles.

loopie the flare wrench was honestly not needed.

This is the thread I was using as my reference document:

http://www.4runners.org/writeups/fuelfilter/index.html

Unfortunately a few key details are lacking in the writeup.

One suggestion is: Use the nut protrusion on the filter body ends to anchor the filter with one wrench while tightening the compression fitting onto it with a 14mm wrench.

2nd suggestion-use the give/play of the backside or "in" fuel line to pull it away from the filter during removal and to bring it close during tightening. Finger tighten the compression nuts-being careful not to cross thread them into the filter's threads.

About a 10 minute job for my new best friend Slava of Irbis Off Road fame and now his own shop- Quality Avto. 322 Norfolk St. #B, Aurora CO 80011 (303) 364-8292

I paid 1/2 hour labor at my insistence and it was well worth it to learn the proper technique. Started up using the clutch start cancel switch and no leaks ! Like Oleg and Yuri of Irbis-Slava is from former country we called USSR when I was a kid.

In short- my failure was due to not enough pressure/torque exerted on the compression fitting up front. I was simply tightening on the fitting and not securing it with the backside wrench on the filter. So it was tight but not tight enough to seal properly. Luckily I knew better than to damage the flare fitting or the threads. But that's about all I could take credit for.

I'll sleep better tonight ! I am a wreck when my truck is not up to full standards of my expectations. Ran the truck hard on the Interstate and the throttle response is now instantaneous in any gear. And a downshift for more power feels great too.

 

For any with fuel leak problems get a flare nut wrench. I ruined the fuel line from the tank to the filter with out one. I couldn't get the front one tight either. Fuel leaked everywhere. The flare nut wrench made short work of it though.

 

I used the flarenut wrench and still have a leak but I think I'll try taking it off and reinstalling it again using a 19mm wrench to hold the body of the filter in place and the 14mm to tighten it now. Wish me luck

 

Once you got it finger tight, get a crowsfoot and slip in a torque wrench and tighten to 22 ft/lbs. Then enjoy your favorite beverage and the rest of this holiday.

The meme is hilarious btw.