Hello trying to get my 93 22re valves adjusted. Followed the FSM also did some searching on here. The problem I am having is that once I adjust the valve when it is warm runs fine. Then the next day after it gets warm back up it runs like crap. Will not go up a hill without shifting in to second gear. When you press the gas it lags then takes off. Lot of gas consuming. Just rebuild engine and new head. The rockers have about 200,000 on them. Please help thank you

Bradley Benton

 

I'm doubtful that the valves being out of adjustment would cause an issue like that. I know you stated you followed the FSM but just to be sure, did you do the adjustment with the engine fully warmed up? The valve specs are specified for a hot engine. Next, when you rechecked the valves, did they actually need adjustment? If the clearances are changing one day to the next you do have something going on.

You mention the engine runs like crap after getting warmed up. Does it run fine cold every time then get crappy as it heats up? Maybe the cold start time switch or ECU temp sensor is faulty and it never thinks it's warming up, therefore dumping extra gas for no reason. Go through the FSM troubleshooting section. It's very detailed and will point you in the right direction of what to test in what order so you don't waste money throwing parts at it until it's fixed.

 

Thank you for the help. Drove around till the temp gauge was up to normal. It runs fine till the gauge gets up to normal then seems to lose power. A couple of times one would be a little tighter on the valves. I will give that a try working through the FSM. How do you tell what is a slight drag for valve adjustment?
Thank you again for the help

 

Get a go-no go type gauge. The blades are milled .002 thinner at the tip than at the base of the blade.

This gauge will help you to get accurate measurements.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-68150-...UAAOSwPgxVPTjD

 

I guess that would be nice but I wouldn't consider it a necessity. I'd say that learning the right amount of "slight drag" is an experience thing. To put it in words is difficult. At the correct tension the next size down will fit but fall out/rotate when you let go. The correct size will have the right amount of that magical drag when inserted straight but will be difficult if bent/curved. The next size up will fit if forced but be obviously too tight. A thousandth or two in either direction won't kill you and you should have no issue getting it within that range.

 

Picked up one of go no go gauge for autozone for 7 bucks. Going to give it a try once the snow lets up here in Kentucky.

 

Update, the go no go gauge worked. Runs like a champ now. Turns out the valves were way off.
Thank you for the help

 

Hi guys,
Need to check/adjust my valve clearance and fix the leaking valve cover seal. For convenience, I'm adding the procedures from the 1988 22R-Eliable 4Runner FSM below.
I also have a couple of questions / need for second opinion.

Hot, Cold Process?
Procedure specifies to adjust or check with engine hot. By the time vacuum lines, etc are moved our of the way, the cover pulled and engine set to TDC, it would cool a little. Then as one does the first half of the valves, the engine cools down some more. Isn't that significant?
I've also heard of "cold process" but do not see what clearances should be set to when cold. Any inputs?

Seal kits, second opinion please?
Toyota Parts Deal has good prices on OEM so it's my first choice.
However, LC Engineering also has a complete kit (Part Number: 1024057 here) for less. Any experience with the LCE seal kit? The LCE kit (pictured below) also includes additional parts the tech support (chat) gentleman calls the "baffle seals" I do not see those in the illustrated parts breakdown. Any thoughts?

ILLUSTRATED PARTS BREAKDOWN:


PROCEDURES:



LCE SEAL KIT BELOW:
(I do not see "baffle seals" in IPB above)

 

The baffle seals go on the inside of the valve cover. The baffles are there to allow air and vapors to pass but hopefully separate out liquid oil from entering the breather and PCV ports. The baffle is riveted on. Personally I've never removed one or replaced the gaskets. I've also never had any issues with the generic parts store brands of valve cover seals and grommets. I'll go OEM for the head gasket and many other components, but for this I save some pennies.

 

Just did mine yesterday. Took about 15 minutes. Spent more time cleaning the etc from the old 1/2 moons and then installing new aluminum ones. My rubber ones were leaking so the only reason I did the valves was because I was there anyways.

 

Thanks, arlindsay1992 and thefishguy77!
Re: half-moons aka semi-circular seal, I hear people talk about problematic ones. OR could it be that they did not clean the surface well and did not apply sealant properly (Permatex Ultra-Grey or Toyota sealant, correct?)?
Like you two, I;m also checking valve clearance because my seals had been leaking since The Truck Shop in San Diego rebuilt the engine. The mech did not replace the old rubber washers, either.

 

If your seals are rock hard I would replace them. Get them clean of rtv. If you can’t get them clean then get new ones. A very light amount of RTV and then let it cure over night. Invited RTV can float around an engine until it cools then block an oil passage.

 

Cold process is simply one thousandth less on each spec, 8-10 from memory. They call for the hot spec, which really means to HOT to touch. By the time you get it apart it's only going to be warm in most cases, and even cooler still by the time you get to the last valve.

Treat it like grill, if you can hold it for more than a one thousand count its not hot enough.

 

I have always wondered how much the engine cools from when you just shut the engine off, to when you finish taking off the valve cover, to finally finishing the last valve adjustment. I would think the engine would cool off long enough where the last valve you adjust is no longer in HOT spec. I would think a cold spec would be more accurate in practice where a hot spec would be the most accurate if you could instantly adjust the valves after shutting off the engine.

What I want to know is how the valves were adjusted at the factory.

RAD4Runner, the reason you hear about the "half-moon" seals leaking all the time could be from a few things:

1. Old rubber "half-moon" seals that have gone through many heat cycles shrink and can no longer hold a tight seal against the head (the main reason as to why aluminum "half-moons" have been made, aluminum half moon seals don't shrink over time)
2. Not putting sealant (Toyota or Permatex Ultra Grey or other equivalent) sealant placed as shown in the Factory Repair Manual
3. Low quality parts

I wouldn't worry about the baffle gasket for the valve cover. 22RE Performance does replace the baffle gasket when they completely clean them for powder-coating, but I wouldn't replace them unless they prove to be a problem.

I have actually had good luck with the Fel-Pro valve cover set from my local parts stores. Arlindsay1992's made a video of the valve adjustment.

I am still curious about cold vs. hot specs. though...

 

Easy enough. Let all the vacuum switch's flop around by removing everything but the acorn nuts to the valve cover. Run it up to temp, cardboard over the front of the radiator will speed this up. Shut it off and check the clearance on cylinder number one. Slide the cover back on and come back in a few hours.

Odds are it will be one thou less. Point an IR thermometer at it for what it's worth..