Jjennings5.9

Hello all, new guy here. Owned a diesel the past 7 years and just now got on the Toyota scene...
This being said I'm pretty much clueless on Gasser engines

Now, I just bought this truck a couple weeks ago, not really checking fluids, it ran, I drove it 2.5 hours home with no problems..truck got hot yesterday. Not in the red on the factory gauge..but I heard the rad. cap blowing off pressure so I pulled over

I poured a gallon of coolant in and didn't fill it up, but I did drive it home. Temps were fine, never got warm, still a good bit of pressure in the radiator but not popping off, no pressure into overflow, no coolant in oil, trucks not running different, doesn't run warm now, coolant is full as I've added more now, acts normal except for some pressure in the radiator still..neeed some guidance on this one as I'm stumped! TIA

bootscootboogie

iTrader: (1)

This is the kind of thread that got me into YT. Love to learn about the Toyota trucks

Jjennings5.9

Yes sir some real knowledgeable fellers on here! Hope to get my problem solved, really a simple engine but I don't wanna spend money on useless attempts at fixing this

Janos01

A few signs of a head gasket issue consist of continuous white smoke out the pipe, milky oil and loss of coolant. Regarding your radiator, is it the original or aftermarket? It is possible there is a small bock in it somewhere.

Jjennings5.9

Aftermarket radiator, cute little plastic booger
Edit: no smoke, no milky oil, no blowby or anything, it's all normal except the pressure in radiator and it being low on coolant that time, but since I never checked it before I'm not sure how much was in it before

Janos01

Is there still pressure in the radiator and have you done a coolant flush?

Jjennings5.9

Yes still a little pressure, kinda what I would call normal, I haven't done a flush, to be perfectly honest I haven't had time. It is a new radiator, I'm assuming PO had this problem before. I don't have a Haynes manual for this truck, but I know that they're kinda unspecific, I'm pretty mechanically inclined but I haven't ever fiddled with these or any Gasser for that matter, not sure how to go about timing and all of that mess, or what all a gasket job for this should entail besides a gasket and head machined. I can get it apart and back together but I'm not sure about the timing chain and things of that nature

Janos01

Before you do anything major, I would recommend this, when the engine is cold, open the hood and take off the radiator cap, start the car and gently squeeze the top radiator hose to see if there might be space still left. You should also see the coolant flowing while doing this and make sure you check the temp as well.

Something simple to try which may help.

Jjennings5.9

Thanks! If its still flowing I'm guessing that kinda narrows it down to head gasket? I've read the heater core returns on the tstat and can cause the tstat to stay closed? Could the possibly be a problem?

Janos01

The coolant will flow in the radiator regardless while the car is running. A few symptoms of a bag HG are milky oil, excessive white smoke out the pipe and noticeable coolant loss.

Jjennings5.9

If it was head gasket shouldn't I be burning white smoke since I noticed the coolant loss? No visible leaks that I can see

Janos01

Before my HG blew in January, I did not have any signs of one aside from having to add coolant after about 3 weeks or so.

Jjennings5.9

I'm not doubting you, but my radiator was damn near empty, if I lost that much shouldn't there be another sign? Lol. Just making sure, I don't wanna tear it down for no reason, I added coolant and now its fine, haven't lost any more, radiator still has a little pressure, its not near popping the cap though, you can just here it when you loosen the cap after driving some. I'm not trying to be ignorant, but if I can keep from spending $500 I would love to

Janos01

All Ive stated is information and advice. If you really want to confirm you have a bad HG, you will need to take it to a mechanic, preferably one who works on Toyotas.

Regarding your statement:
"I just bought this truck a couple weeks ago, not really checking fluids, it ran, I drove it 2.5 hours home with no problems..truck got hot yesterday."

It is possible the previous own did not do something on there part.

Jjennings5.9

Bingo, especially with him changing the radiator himself..never know. Thanks for the info, if I flush and it still happens to drink coolant, is there a write up step by step on a head gasket job? Looked through but all I see is diagnosis, Haynes manual aren't very specific, I don't wanna botch it up, but I can't afford to take to a mechanic

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Here is a good thread https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...thread-188472/ that has some helpful information.

I would not spend a whole lot on getting the head repaired if it is bad. You can buy a new head for $250-$350. Check Engbldr.com or ebay for a new head if you need one. At the very least have your head checked at the machine shop if it is rebuildable. My local shop charges $35 just to see if it is worth rebuilding.

Here is the short version and had pictures that are not missing from the above link https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...cement-212688/ that I think will work better.

Jjennings5.9

Awesome thanks! And my local machine shop said $75 for a head job, if its cracked at all I'm buying new

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

You can start a build thread or use this thread and post picture along the way of what you are doing. It will pay off in the reassembly when you will need pictures for a reference.

One thing you will find out that the crankshaft bolt has to come off and can be a real bear to break loose. I use a 19mm socket with the breaker bar on the passenger side of the frame and use the starter to break it loose. It is TIGHT!!! You will see all kinds of post on trying to get it broke loose.

There are all kinds of tips and tricks that can make it easier for you and people will jump in give answers when you hit a speed bump.

I have done numerous top end rebuilds. I will say for the most part if the motor has over 250k I would not recommend just a top end rebuild unless you know the condition and history of the motor. If it was well maintained you can get quite a few more miles out of it.

The guy who created the above threads that I refered you to had no mechanical experience at all. He mentions it several times in his thread and was one of the most inexperienced guys in the mechanic field and knew nothing about motors. He used to come on here a lot and when he got done with his build was able to jump in and give others advice. He went from Newbie to a Pro. His thread should be able to motivate you and give you the confidence to be able to do it.

Jjennings5.9

Absolutely! Thanks for the help y'all, gonna try and tear down this weekend if needed, I have paperwork for the engine rebuild, but if I'm gonna be pulling apart for a head gasket already I'm taking that it may not have been done correctly or half @$$ed. I've rebuilt Cummins engines for years but haven't gotten my hands on a Gasser of any sort yet, maybe this one will be a breeze, lets hope