Hello guys and gals I’m new to this site but need some help I’ve got a 1983 Toyota extra cab 4x4 pickup I’ve had for 12 years recently I rebuilt carb but made a bad mistake and took apart choke and needless to say I ordered a new carb. My engine is a stock 22r and I’ve put a new fuel pump and new carb on it and it will crank right up and runs ok for about 30 secs then it will surge and runs really rough and really rich I’m not great with carbs so any help is appreciated.

 

Sorry, I'm not either. I've owned my pickup, with a 22R in it, for 30+ years now, but Haven't touched the carb, other than to clean it occasionally. Carb cleaner all over the mechanical choke "stuff" on the outside, followed by a short shot of WD-40, some cleaner down the throats while it's running, a touch of WD-40 on the throttle parts, things like that. It probably needs to be rebuilt by now, but hey, it still works fine, so why mess with it?

Sorry I can't be of more help...
Pat☺

 

Thanks anyway this carb is new so not sure why it’s running so rich all I did to truck for years was just buy gas for it and change oil but started not wanting to crank so I got a new carb and it’s running way too rich and besides taking carb off and putting new one on don’t know nothing about adjusting one

 

If I were you, I'd double check ALL the vacuum lines. A vacuum line that has to do with taking the choke off may not be connected, or connected correctly. Use the diagram under the hood, and check all of them end-to-end, carefully. If the diagram under the hood is unreadable, we can probably find the right one for your truck somewhere.

It sounds like, to me, the choke is staying on. You can take the top off the air cleaner, and watch the choke as the truck warms up. Make sure the choke plate opens completely once the truck is warmed up. If it doesn't, it will make the truck run rich, obviously. It's what the choke does, after all. If not, the we can work on seeing WHY. Is the plate catching on something? Is the mechanical linkages on the outside of the carb jammed up, or not adjusted properly, so it's holding the choke plate partly closed, etc. The FSM has a good procedure for setting the choke, at least for the OEM carb.

Something else you can check is the float level, in the bowl. Just look at the sight glass while the truck is warmed up. The fuel level should be right even with the two little pointers on the sight glass. If it's much above that, that could well be why it's running rich. The overflow fuel may be being drawn down the carb throat, thus, too rich. If it is too high, you'll need to adjust the float's level, until the fuel IS even with the pointers. Again, the FSM has "how to".

Maybe not super helpful, but something to check, at least. I wish you good fortune!
Pat☺

 

I will check all that thank you for all that info just got to sit down the first time tonite and haven’t had much time to work on it lately it has rained here for the last 6 weeks every day. On the vacuum line diagram on hood yes it’s gone or just wore plum out my vacuum lines could be problem because I’m not for sure they are hooked up correctly there are a lot of lines that are plugged up because I’m not sure where they go I’ve been looking for a good readable vacuum line diagram if you do run across one please forward it to me. Thank you again your post was very helpful.

 

I'll bet the vacuum lines are the trouble, then.

Just need to know, is your truck got California, or Federal, or neither, emission control. That will affect the vacuum diagram. I'll see what I can find, as quick as I can, though. I'll post whatever I can, whatever version it is, and let you decide. The older trucks have what seems like miles of vacuum lines, and they will affect how the carb works.

Let me see what I have, and what I can find...
Pat☺

 

I live in North AL so I’m just guessing because I worked another late night and didn’t go look to verify but I’m fairly sure it’s just federal emissions it does have vacuum lines going everywhere but half of them are plugged off and most of emissions stuff is also not on truck it wasn’t on it when I bought it 12 years ago. I’m really hoping to have some time tomorrow to do some work on it and trace down some vacuum lines. Thank you for help on that diagram.

 

Magnify this a little. I'm not sure the exact year, and it's Cali but it's something.

Check the "Choke Opener" vacuum stuff. There's a vacuum line going to the BVSV, and so on. Check the components. The BVSV is well known for the plastic braking, causing leaks, and so forth. Does the Choke Opener actuate correctly when you apply vacuum to it?

All that kind of good stuff. I hope something in all this is some small help...
Pat☺

 

Thank you Pat I’ve got to get ink for my dang printer but I appreciate that diagram a lot your tips have been very helpful when I finally get to work on my Toyota I’m sure it will run correct with all your help thank you for all your help again have a great evening

 

Ok I finally a had a little time this weekend to work on my Toyota on my carb it has 3 vacuum ports on it all 3 are capped off but my carb has a electric choke so I was wondering if they even needed vacuum and my choke is staying closed that’s why it’s running rich. So my question is I’m not sure my choke is working properly is there any voltage going to choke when the ignition switch is on? That’s the only way I know to check it is with voltage.

 

You can visually verify the choke's operation. Take off the top of the air cleaner, and LOOK down the primary throat. You should easily be able to see the choke plate. make sure the engine is as cold as it's going to get. I don't know the procedure for the new carb, but the original, factory carb, you pump the gas pedal 3 times, if it's dead cold. Like sitting overnight cold. Start the engine, and just sit there, watching the choke plate. Electric or engine heat operated, you should be able to see the choke plate open by itself. It's slow, so just check it every minute or so to see what it's doing.
Here is the system I believe may be your trouble. Even with an electric choke opener, this system should still be utilized. Notice this may be 2 of the disconnected vacuum lines. Not saying it IS, just that it may be.

The top plate in the picture is the choke plate in the carb throat I'm talking about. The devices connecting the two plates together are on the outside of the carb, and must be adjusted according to the instructions that came with the carb.
Notice that if the BVSV isn't functioning properly, you'll have this problem. Also, if the vacuum lines aren't connected, you'll have this trouble. If the step plate on the bottom plate isn't adjusted properly....you get the idea.

Just a couple things to check on...
Pat☺