1983 sr5 4x4 build
#1
I just purchased a 1983 Toyota 4x4 with a broke crank. So bought a rebuild motor bored 20 over. Got new radiator, water pump, plugs, distributer, starter, hoses, wires, clutch and pressure plate. Truck was a stock one owner truck with every option besides moon roof, 170000 miles. Not all rusted out and hasn't been dogged is the real reason I got it. The only rust is on the front fender( in pic three ) also 6 inch scratch on hood. Going to put a 3 inch lift 33/1350/r15 on aluminum 15x10s. What size axel gears should I get? Can you supply a website? Where can I get a new gauge cluster with 0 miles so I can keep up with everything?
Last edited by 4x4 goo roo; 10-23-2015 at 08:10 AM.
#5
You're going to want 4.88 or 5.29 gears to turn those tires - I would lean more towards 5.29's if you plan on going with those fat 33's and wide wheels.
As for the gauge cluster, you are better off leaving it alone. Mileage is recorded (on titles, insurance and registration) based on the vehicle, not the engine. If you go tampering with the odometer or replacing it then your vehicle won't have the true mileage on it based on title records and will throw up a red flag to future buyers thus reducing your future resale value. Your best bet is to leave the odometer alone and provide detailed documentation of the engine install (receipts, dates, mileage, labor, etc). This way when somebody pulls the title work (IE: CarFax or DMV records) there won't be a hit on the vehicle for mileage tampering or disclosure. People see that and immediately assume that the vehicle has been in an accident, salvaged, stolen, vin swapped, etc. Feel free to do what you would like, but I would never roll back the mileage on my truck and my truck was close to completely new at 134,000 after I restored it.
As for the gauge cluster, you are better off leaving it alone. Mileage is recorded (on titles, insurance and registration) based on the vehicle, not the engine. If you go tampering with the odometer or replacing it then your vehicle won't have the true mileage on it based on title records and will throw up a red flag to future buyers thus reducing your future resale value. Your best bet is to leave the odometer alone and provide detailed documentation of the engine install (receipts, dates, mileage, labor, etc). This way when somebody pulls the title work (IE: CarFax or DMV records) there won't be a hit on the vehicle for mileage tampering or disclosure. People see that and immediately assume that the vehicle has been in an accident, salvaged, stolen, vin swapped, etc. Feel free to do what you would like, but I would never roll back the mileage on my truck and my truck was close to completely new at 134,000 after I restored it.
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