v6 or v8 4runner
#1
v6 or v8 4runner
i am wanting a 03-04 4runner 4x4 and cant decide between a v6 and v8. i will mostly use it for hwy driving. i have a boat that probably weighs 1000lbs and i am wanting to get one that weighs 2500-3000lbs, towing a boat will probaly be about 30% of the time, and once or twice a year i might tow a tractor that weighs 5000lbs w/ trailer. i want the best mpg i can get without hurting myself while towing
what do yall think
what do yall think
#3
I have had excellent results with the V-6.. 196,000 mi so far & no problems.
I pull a small trailer (hunting dogs, during Nov, Dec, & Jan) Once again, no problems.
If I can keep my foot out of it, I get 20+ mpg.. (below 70 mph)
I really can't think of a time I wished I had a V-8..
Just my $.02.
Jeff
I pull a small trailer (hunting dogs, during Nov, Dec, & Jan) Once again, no problems.
If I can keep my foot out of it, I get 20+ mpg.. (below 70 mph)
I really can't think of a time I wished I had a V-8..
Just my $.02.
Jeff
#4
4.0 is the way to go
if I remember when researching the 2003, the V6 actually has more HP than the V8. I tow a boat thats close to 1100 lbs with a V6. No problems. 2 things that I did for my own piece of mind.
1.Trans cooler--this is a must if you tow anything!
2. Drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads.
trailer brakes are nice too. wish I had them.
1.Trans cooler--this is a must if you tow anything!
2. Drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads.
trailer brakes are nice too. wish I had them.
#6
I doubt the 6-7 mpg difference, my buddies FJ is getting 16 in town and thats what I get with my V8 with TRD Supercharger.
Even with a 1-3 mpg diff the cost over a year would be insignificant.
The only time less is more is when talking about drywall mud, not when pulling a boat, or passing some slow RV on a mountain uphill or lining up against a 5.0 Mustang GT, or cutting first tracks thru fresh powder on some fire roads.
And yes the V6 did claim 10 more HP in 2003-2004, but torque is what counts.
Even with a 1-3 mpg diff the cost over a year would be insignificant.
The only time less is more is when talking about drywall mud, not when pulling a boat, or passing some slow RV on a mountain uphill or lining up against a 5.0 Mustang GT, or cutting first tracks thru fresh powder on some fire roads.
And yes the V6 did claim 10 more HP in 2003-2004, but torque is what counts.
#7
V-8 gets a beefier drivetrain with 5A/T ECT-i (4A/T on V-6) and full-time 4WD with standard tranny cooler. Toyota rates V-8 1 mpg less City/Hwy on Regular grade vs. recommended Premium for V-6. V-8 resale currently isn't as good as V-6 even though MSRP was ~$1,800 more. If you can find a V-8 Limited with the rare self-leveling rear airbag suspension (includes X-REAS), the model I had, definitely go for it. So smooth, quiet and effortless freeway performance with gobs of low-end torque and taller overall final drive ratio of 2.67 vs. 2.76 = lower cruising rpm's (I still have the brochure!).
Last edited by BT17R; 08-24-2008 at 04:32 PM.
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#8
if I remember when researching the 2003, the V6 actually has more HP than the V8. I tow a boat thats close to 1100 lbs with a V6. No problems. 2 things that I did for my own piece of mind.
1.Trans cooler--this is a must if you tow anything!
2. Drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads.
trailer brakes are nice too. wish I had them.
1.Trans cooler--this is a must if you tow anything!
2. Drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads.
trailer brakes are nice too. wish I had them.
2. Once again, drilled/slotted do not do anything for "cooling" like people think. Just some good vented blank rotors (OEM, Brembo or Duralast will do) and a good set of ceramic pads will be good.
If you are going to be towing that 3000+lb boat regularly, and if you live in a hilly area, I'd opt for the V8. Otherwise, V6.
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