Woo Hoo! ... in a few hours I was successful in doing my first brake job, replacing the Pads and Rotors on my 2003 SE 4WD!

Gotta love the desert, I have 90,000 miles and have taken it up to MT and WY in the snow, but the caliper Pins still drifted out with ZERO resistance, and the pistons are shiny on the sides and pressed in with no problem...heres the question...

I searched this forum and T4R.org and found only alittle info on doing this...\

I only loosened the Brake Fluid Reservior Cap to relieve back pressure when I depressed the caliper pistons....upon completion, I tightened the cap and pumped the brakes which were spongey for 2 strokes then firmed up.

Test drove it with extreme braking and all seems well. 15 minutes later I gave it to my wife to drive to work...30 min drive and all seems well.

AM I ok or should I have done something else? bled the brakes or something?

feelin pretty good...what da ya think?

 

no you did it right. It was spongy initially because you were displacing the new space in the lines you created by depressing the pistons. This is normal.

No NEED to bleed the lines unless the fluid looks really bad.

 

Great...even though it was very easy, it is up there in complexity for my mechanic skills, such that they aren't!

Now a related question if you don't mind...I didn't lube anything with High temp grease nor did I install anti squeal spacers...just used the existing anti rattle springs (buggered one alittle) and re-used the cotter type pins>>>eh nothing seemed flaky upon reinstallation.

the Bolts for the caliper to the arm, I just snugged them tight...no torque wrench!

Am I a scary gambler or still OK?

 

No I think you're fine. Some replace the brake "hardware" every time they do brakes--don't disagree with this at all but if it looks ok upon inspection, then in my experience, you're good to go.

If the brakes make noise you can buy brake anti-squeal and spray it liberally on the rotors.

 

Thanks AMP & Drew...sign me, one pleased to have done something himself for a change!

The Local Brake Thiefs wanted $900 and I did it for $150!

 

I feel it's like not washing your hands after using the toilet.

Lots of people do it, but should you?

If your brake fluid is still clear/yellow, then you're fine. If it's dark, you should do a fluid change. At this point, the easy way is to use a dollar store turkey baster. Suck the reservoir, fill it up. Do it again in a couple weeks if the fluid goes dark again. Then you're good to go.

Label the thing POISON. BRAKE FLUID. and store it in the garage.

 

Thanks Brian - the fluid is clear and yellow!

Just replaced the rear pads today...seems to have gone very well, found only one piston on the rear caliper, no pins...only bolts for the caliper to the suspension...pads popped out and replaced OK, used toyota dealer OEM pads

Brakes like a new baby!!!

Gone is the pulsing and gone is the $900 brake shop estimate...

 

Most cars, trucks and motorbikes are the same story. I've done dozens upon dozens of basic rotor/drum, pad/shoe replacement jobs myself since high school. Unless I had to open a brake line for some reason, I never have had any issue with it. Only really an issue if the fluid is visually dirty. If a caliper has to be replaced (or the seal gets damaged, somehow...), its time to bleed the system.

I've been tempted to get some speed bleeders for my bike, but I can reach both the caliper and lever/pedal. A few more years and my little girl will be able to help me pump the brake pedal on cars.