chapters 26 and 27 (front and rear suspension). you might also want part of chapter 1 "vehicle lift and support locations"

 

Ive been reading every thread I can find pertaining to the 4th gen lift options for the last six months. I'd like thank James and Andries (and everyone else) for posting about the things they've tried because I would be in the dark (and stuck stock)otherwise!

Ive been waiting for something priced between spacers and coil overs so Im liking this OME lift setup a lot! I hate to keep stealing from James' rig. But the Hanna bolt on sliders worked out well enough for me (even though they were especially expensive shipped to the SE) to trust his judgement again for my lift kit. I just have a few of questions before I commit.

1) If the (Downey, SAW, DR) coil-overs are $1000 (+/- $50) and the OME kit is about the same cost pre-sprung from Slee, why not get adjustable coil overs instead? The Downey kit is the only one thats advertised as including rear coil springs. Wouldnt they all (SAW, DR, & Downey) need to include these AND longer rear shocks? I just need to be sure Im not missing something in the cost and installation comparison here.

2) I want to be able to restore the vehicle to its stock configuration within a day in case I need warranty service for any reason so I need the best bolt-on/take-off solution. Assuming Im not missing something in the above comparison, would the coil overs or the OME setup be best for this?

3) I know a few people have ordered their OME kit from Slee and another from TRDparts4u. I also read that Slee figured this combination of parts out and TRDparts4u can maybe get them cheaper. I appreciate both of those things but..... since Im in the SE, and since since I know what parts I would need (again, thanks to you guys! ;-) it will probably save me on shipping to get them from TRDparts4u. Is there really any reason I shouldnt get the OME kit from the guys in TX besides loyalty to the guy who figured out the setup?

4) I think I appreciate the geometry concepts behind increased suspension height not increasing ground clearance. I assume by increasing travel and allowing for a larger tire the lift will allow me to increase ground clearance. Im dragging everything and the muffler in the sand on the NC seashore so I need increased ground clearance. If I go with a 3" suspension lift, where is the best deal on some 16" rims so I can get some bigger tires and whats the largest size tire I can fit into the wheel well without "trimming" to prevent rubbing? Or is that an entirely different conversation?

Thanks in advance for any guidance!

 

The OME kit is significantly cheaper since the OME kit comes complete (front and rear). The coilovers are only for the front and you're still stranded on the rears which is an added cost. Downey is the only vendor that offers a front and rear solution in the coilover market.

Coilovers are more on the bling between coil/shock vs coilovers. Both are great products and both serve it's own purpose. The coilovers are adjustable thus giving you the ability adjust your height accordingly (helpful when you add a bumper/winch etc etc). Keep in mind that there are owners that have added significant amount of weight and still use the OME successfully so you can't go wrong either way.

At this point, it's just a preference If you have the $ and want to spend abit more on the bling, then get some coilovers, otherwise OME's are your best bet.

installation for either type is the same (of course if you add the top plate from Slee - if not, then you'll have to compress your coil etc etc - see installation notes for any coil/shock installation). I would say I wouldn't even bother removing the suspension when you do warranty service unless the problem you're experiencing is suspension related. See magnusen Act (sp error I'm sure... search).

I have not delt with either vendor so I can't comment but you pay what you get for. As long as you know what parts you need exactly, I don't see why you need to go with one vendor specific vendor. Just buy it from any ARB/OME vendor that is in your area so you can save even more $ on shipping unless you know of some online vendor that can price match another vendor.

you will have to trim some on 285'75'16 MT at full compression/full lock. Not sure w/ A/T tires on the same size.

265'75'16 will have no rubbing from what I recall.

Stick w/ 16" wheels as they're cheaper. Also the tires are much cheaper. I got my tires at Discount Tire / America Tire. The reason is they offer a warranty on any reason so it makes it easier to get things replaced They also price match w/ local tire shops so check them out.

Good luck

 

Thanks a lot for the advice Lance. Im new to the 4x4 scene (always been a motor head though) and everyone here at YT has always been very cool and really helpful.

Theres no doubt you get what you pay for. But Im trying to score a 3" suspension lift, a 1.25" R.B. body lift, 16" wheels and tires, mounted, balanced, and aligned for under $2k. I'll call Slee and then another closer OME dealer and compare them. Im fairly mechanically inclined and have a compressor and garage so I should be able to do the installation with the excellent wirte ups the service manual and my neighbor!

Thanks again for the coil over/OME comparison clarification, but if you dont mond helping educate me (further) , wouldnt one need longer rear shocks with the Downey kit also?

I had no idea about the Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act. I'll have to investigate that more thoroughly.

Ive been using Discount Tire in recent years too since they offer the tire warranty. I hadnt considered them for wheels before though. Dont I need a 2004 16"x7" Taco rim?

Thanks again!

 

Remember also that if you want to carry a full size spare that 265/75/16 or 265/70/17 is the largest tire size that will fit in the spare mount. Anyway that is my understanding. If you go larger than that you will need to find another way to carry your spare.

 

Thats a critical point! I dont want to trim either so since Lance mentioned that was the largest size tire we could run without trimming... I'll go with 265/70/17 AT tires on my stock 17" rims to save some money. I may need to buy some 16" rims to run the 265/75/16's before I go rock crawling this fall? For now I just desperately need to gain some ground clearance to run on the shore and even consider the trails. Like I mentioned, Ive been watching.... and waiting..... and reading.... and waiting..... so OME here's another sale! G'night folks... its 1:30 AM back East here and I have a damn day job. But Im gonna have some sweet dreams......

 

downey's kit comes complete with front coilovers, rear shock and coil.
ome's kit comes complete w/ front and rear shock and coil
donahoe's coilovers just supply the front. you're kinda stuck on your own for the rear.
the same is for sway-a-way (like donahoe's).

hope that clears things up. if you get either SAW or DR, get the OME rear's as that's your best bet on the rears

if you plan to offroad, i'd recommend getting the largest tire possible. you won't regret it one bit. i have 285's and now wish i got even a larger tire! haha greed.... does wonders.

good luck

 

FirstToy, Bulldog-Yota, GoodTimes et al,

Defnitely OME is the way to go, based on your pioneering work. Looks like front 3.25" lift, rear 2.75" initially (e.g. 884 + 895 combo without spacers for a V6).

Now that you had the chance to off-road with them, could you let us know how much the initial lift has settled? Also, I'd be curious to know how much down-travel the front wheels have from ride position (measured by lifting the front so both wheels are off the ground). I measured 4.8" with the stock setup.

Thanks

 

Like Lance said, get the OMEs pre-sprung with new top plate and bushings and it's a bolt-on solution. Then they are all equal w/regards to ease of install/uninstall (fronts, that is).

I have 265/75/16 BFG ATs on 16x7 tacoma rims with the OME lift and there's no rubbing and the spare tire fits. I don't think there's much room left in the spare tire compartment for a larger size tire. Also, I have the cheezy tow hitch which leaves more room; I'm not sure if the heavy-duty hitch makes a difference or not, but that's something to consider. As far as trimming goes, I don't need to do any trimming with my config. See https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f117/tacoma-16x7-alloys-4th-gen-4runner-58433/ for more info on the wheels/tires.

 

[QUOTE=bdh1213]Dont I need a 2004 16"x7" Taco rim? QUOTE]

You don't NEED the taco rim, it just happened to work out well for me. It has a 15mm offset, compared to the 30 of the stock 17" rims, which means the taco wheels stick out an extra 15 mm (that's about 5/8"). This gives the runner a wider stance, which is important for stability when the rig is lifted.

Of course, 16" wheels are not an option if you have the sport model (larger breaks require the 17's).

 

Rishi....

Please read this thread: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f15/pismo-4rj3-august-5-7-2005-a-60707/

Show up to this event. A MUST FOR YOU. When you arrive, we will explain in detail all of the concerns you have with the actual product so you can see it for yourself. I think this will be the best opportunity for you to inspect the various setups and finally get all of the questions answered. Any other questions? Just ask at Pismo! We'll have plenty of members there and will be the best time to check out everything.

See you there.

 

Ok, I've only put 70 on-road miles and about a half mile off-road on the new suspension, but here are my initial impressions:

ON ROAD:

* The ride is more firm, but I like that. I thought the stock suspension was a bit mushy, especially when cornering and breaking.

* No more nose-dive when abruptly breaking. Sure it dips a little, but nothing like before.

* The rear is stiff, but not jolting. I had fears that it would rattle me to pieces, but I really only notice it when going over speed bumps, and you can be sure I've hit every bump I possibly could the last couple days. It feels more like a truck now, less like an SUV.

OFF ROAD:

* I only drove on a short little rutty dirt road so far, (but of course, went back and forth several times like a little kid). HUMONGOUS DIFFERENCE from the stock suspension. I don't get flung around the cab like before. It's really stable and tame, not to mention that when I sink one side in a big rut, I don't bottom out any more Ground clearance is a good thing!

Overall, I can't wait to really take it off road. I have a trip planned in a couple weeks.

 

Great to hear!

SLEE is shipping my parts today.

 

Lance,
Thanks very much for the clarification on what comes with the 4th gen coil-over kits. If the Downey kit is in fact complete it almost makes me want to get it instead since I think Slee wants close to $1k for the OME parts (with the front shipped sprung anyway). Its a personal issue if its solely financial. BUT, adjustable coil-overs for the same money and same install hassle sounds better to me. Do you know if there is any drilling or UCA's required to install the Downey kit or where I can find an install write up on them? I heard DR's need some drilling to install..... Thanks again!

4x4rnr,
I have an SR5v6 with the light weight hitch so Im good on 16" wheels. But I'll save the money if I dont need them. If I can fit just as much tire in the spare wheel well either way, Im not sure how it helps other than looking better with a fatter tire in the wheel well? Unless having the ability to air down and use the side wall to rock crawl keeps you off of the wheel? If not for that then I almost dont see the sense in spending the money on the 16 wheels tires. Stock is 265/65/17 so adding a %10 taller tire sounds really minimal. In that case I'd just but some 265/75/17 AT tires for my stock rims.

Im not entirely certain that a 1.25" wider wheelbase helps a whole lot... but an it IS a slightly wider stance so you may be onto something there. I always believed the only way you would really accomplish that would be with UCA's though since the increases with wheels/tires are so small. Just thinking out loud here...

Im with Lance in that I would want BIG FATTIES if Im going to bother to spend the money on new skids. Either way thanks for the link to the wheels thread.

Lefty's rig has a nice wide stance... anybody know his setup?

 

I don't think DR's require drilling (unless I'm mistaken). All of the suspension kits should be bolt on. None of the kits should require customizing btw.

The only point of no return would be when you want aftermarket UCA's from either Inland Truck or Total Chaos (both of which I have and will go on sale soon). UCA's will help but it will be very minimal (They follow stock geometry so nothing really changes. The only change would be what clears/hits at full compression/droop and replacing the stock ball joints to uniballs - less wear and tear since the stock ball joints will go bad over time from extreme use - think offroad). If you plan to offroad a lot then I would recommend them but it's definitely not the best bang for your buck if you're on a tight budget. These pieces really don't do much justice since it's very minimal but when you offroad, every bit helps (if you know what I mean).

Tires are $ even if you look at stock size. I have 285's and now wished I went bigger but unfortunately at the time, I had no idea what would work. No biggie. Stance will vary according to wheel setting so look into different types of wheels. Backspacing and Offset will make a big difference on how much a tire sticks out (don't forget to make sure the wheels clear the calipers too though).

Personally speaking, I would recommend the OME's since you can't go wrong and they don't need to be maintained. Coilovers will need to be rebuilt over time whereas the OME's won't so keep that in mind too. Installation of the OME kit or even a coilover kit would be similiar if not exactly the same. If you want to make it a bolt on process, look into getting the top plate already pre set w/ the OME kit from any vendor that will do that for you (this way you don't have to compress the coil and set it all up etc etc).

If you can get 16" wheels I would push for that since tires will be cheaper than 17's.

Good luck

 

It sounds like the biggest issue was on ARB's end with there not being enough parts to cover the entire quantity of demand.

 

****deleted here and moved to vendor section*********

 

Rishi as Lance said be there or be square

I can take you for a ride in my 4R (90% cetain that I will be there) and you can feel what the OMEs feel like, and you should probably try some other setups there as well. That will really be the best way to decide what you want. I think some other 4th Gens will be there with different spacer lifts as well.

 

Guys.... last warning.... please keep this on the OME topic!

If you have gripes about any vendor(s), make a thread in the vendor feedback and post accordingly. Let's not clutter up this thread here. Therefore, please remove any unnecessary post in here that is not OME 4th gen related and move it to the appropriate area.

Thanks

 

Hmmmm, rebuilt huh, okay I'll do the OME stuff.

Im sorry I ever asked the supplier question. Jeez....