True. The one that came with it didn't fit. I figured since it was part of the kit, I might as well try to get ahold of whatever one does actually work.

 

With how much gas in it measured from where to where?

I measured from the bottom edge of the rim to the bottom edge of the wheel well.

 

Guys, there's not a lot of rocket science to this. 1/4" up to 1/2" variation using the 'something' to wheel lip is not that uncommon. The real key is to measure something very definitive instead of holding a steel tape.

Flat on an alignment rack, the distance between control arms is perhaps a more accurate measure of front suspension variance. Also, the presence of a variance is not in itself indicitive of a problem...

 

I've been watching this forum for awhile now specificaly waiting for the OME lift to be tested out for 2004 4Runner. I finaly got around to joining today.

You guys have done a great job leading the way and documenting the process for the rest of us. Thanks!

I got my OME lift a couple weeks ago from SLEE and I installed it last weekend in about 6 hours with no problems. After getting it re-aligned last Monday I took it out for a test run. I'm very happy with the ride & clearence. It's nice to be back to having a vehicle that is capable of performing well off road again. :-)

FYI...I do notice from the rear it does lean a little to the driver's side. It's noticable visualy and measures about .5 inches lower at the edge of the rear wheel well. I would prefer perfection, but I bet I'll learn to live with it.

If someone can educate me on how to post an image I can post one of my 2004 Sport with the OME suspension and BFG AT tires installed.

 

make an accout at a picture host website, the more popular ones are www.photobucket.com and www.webshots.com, upload pictures, and then click the picture icon when you write a new post and copy and paste the location of the picture

 

OK, thanks...I'll try to set that up tomorrow sometime.

 

looking forward to the pics.

 

My ome lift will be here tomorrow. After reading this all more closely it appears the assembling the font shocks & springs myself would be the biggest PITA. Ben at Slee recommended having it done with a wall mounted spring compressor b/c it's really hard to do with the clamp style compressors.

So i think my gameplan is to leave work early and take the stock front shocks/springs out. Take them and my new ome parts down to my mechanic and have them assemble the front shocks/springs. I hope the timing works out.

As a backup plan does anyone have any input on how I could do it myself? what type of spring compressor to use, etc.

Thanks for the advice.

 

You can use the Craftsman Coil Spring Compressors ... but I would really recommend just letting a shop do it. The OME coils are stiff enough that using the coil compressors yourself is a bit dangerous, and a shop can do it easily in no time.

 

I had to get a set of coil spring compressors from NAPA with a different clamping mechanism for the OME coils. The craftsman coil compressors just didn't fit properly with the OME coils, once the coil is comprressed on the strut the Craftsman clamps was to big to slide out from the coils itself. The woundings got too close. That was with 884 coils and an OME trimpacker. I would not recommend doing 885 coils with normal coil spring crompressors, the spring is a lot beefier than the stock coils and longer (compress more). My coil compressors were taking major strain.

Bottom line get a professional tool for these OME coils, might cost you a few $$$ to fit but will be a lot safer.

 

My Craftsman compressors actually bent ... but I wasn't sure if that was due to the OME coils or the fact that the compressors have been used a few times previously.

 

I'm pretty sure I went with the 884's up front, so with 10mm less length and no top spacer it might work with the craftsman compressor. While that's not what I want to do I just want to come up with a contingency plan if I can't get them out in time to take them down to the shop...I guess the alternative would be to go to a chain that's open later. Hmm now there's a thought.

 

Yeah, I would really just go to a shop and have them do that part. It was a bit scary seeing the compressors bend, and was absolutely no fun compressing them with hand tools.

 

I couldn't get the clamp portion of my craftsman compressors to fit between the rungs of the coils. I went to a pro for a $40 swap (only took 15 minutes).

flyAddict - I posted a few tips here about how to get the fronts out that might help if you're in a hurry... I was in the same predicament. If you can dig those up it might save you some head-scratching when trying to calculate exactly how to extract the stock struts from the front assemblies. If I can find it, I'll post the link.

 

I've got the front struts assembled and ready to go back in. The only way I can think to get them in is to pull the steering tie rod out. I know from past exp. if you pickle fork it, it will pretty much destroy the bushing. So can it be unscrewed?

The new strut is so thick there's no way to weasle it in there from all the angles and compressions I've tried. Thanks for a quick reply...

 

Yeah, you'll need to remove the tie rod end ...

 

I use this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=36861



It works great. If necessary, you can always try using a sledge hammer - not the greatest idea, but it won't murder the boots like the pickle fork would.

Good luck!

 

Thanks Rock. I just loosened the jam nut and unscrewed the rod from the johnny joint end of the rod. worked like a charm...need an alignment anyway. The stock setting was a 1/2" from the jam nut to the end of the thread on <edit> both sides.

Some other notable points:
1) the new OME front struts are will not fit the way the stock ones come out due to the there being more coils in the springs. I found the only way to get them in, without roughing up the cv boots or breaking break lines, was to disconnect the steering tie rod (see above).

2) While jacking up the back of the vehicle make sure to put to the jack stands on the frame rails ( just forward of the lower control arm) do one side at a time. Then use a floor jack or piston jack to support the pumpkin. Remove wheels, shocks, swaybar links, etc. [if you don't and try to support the axel with stands, you get into creatively placing jacks around to support while moving the jack stands with the goal of the final jack position being under the pumpkin. e.g. wasting time. speaking from experience here.]


Other than that it was easy. Got the stock struts out in just under 1hr. to get them to my mechanic before they closed. (just made it) The rest took about 6hts. or so. It helps my rig is only 1.5 weeks old too. will post pics in the morning. Took it for a little test drive, rides soooo much better (read more like the truck it is). Cheers for now. Thanks to all you pioneers and Slee Offroad. then bedtime.

 

Ok, I finaly got back on line. Here's the picture I promised of my 2004 T4R Sport V8 with the new 265/70/17 BFG AT tires and OME 3" suspension installed. I opted for the 895 front springs due the V8 and my plans to install an ARB winch bumber when they are available. I'm happy with the ride now, even without the added wieght of the upcoming bumper and winch. I figure if it drops too much when I install the bumper/winch, I can always add some packers on the front struts to compensate for the additional weight.

 

OK, I uploaded my picture to Webshots and copied the link into my previous post. Doesn't look like it worked. :-) Here's the link to my picture on Webshots.....what did I miss on how to properly post on this forum?? Thx

http://image63.webshots.com/63/5/46/...9rmdqXU_fs.jpg