michael1963

Yep your right on the warm-up time. Hey, do you guys over there in NJ get a lot of snow and cold?

pwd

My '95 *used* to have no trouble starting up in -30C ... before I added my backup lights which seem to draw power somewhere. Its a manual, its more difficult to shift when its super cold out until its all warmed up.

My '92 4Runner doesn't have trouble starting up, it sure is nice with a remote starter. It has an A/T. I just wish it idled correctly like my '95 so it wouldn't take so long to warm up the inside. The blower motor doesn't always work... then I have to drive like Ace Ventura with my head out the window until it decided to turn on.

The block heater on both makes a world of difference, takes way less time to get up to normal running temp.

85gijunk4x4

sure do! we get 100 degree summers an usually around 10 degree winters, sometimes colder. around this time last year, we had over 2 feet of snow. there was one or two snow storms last years that were 2 and a half feet plus! for a few days, the nj and eastern pa area were under a state of emergency and all businesses and such shut down, and since snow isnt all year round we really arent prepared for the big snow storms, so when it snows, the main roads are decent, but they dont even touch county roads or township roads. i think over the period of last year we got over 50 inches of snow in my town, and since it doesnt go above freezing from december till march, the snow just stayed there for months, and it kept building up more and more with each snow storm. so far we've only gotten an inch or two dont here, but i know theres gonna be some big storms.

now back to the thread! and the moral of the story, let everything warm up for a long while, and dont give it too much hell untill your temp needle is up to normal.

johnnyh117

now see i have these same problems except it happens when its warm too. like i'll set the choke to start it up ill start cranking it, itll start up put unless i put my foot to the floor for a while untill the exaust comes out white and even then itll idle but every now and then itll dip down and come back up. but even then thats when its cold but it also does it whens its warm too.

Greg_Canada

[QUOTE=The Rockin Hoskin;51612539][QUOTE]No bass- Speakers are cold, probably the part that moves in and out is compressed in the tube.
You realy should warm up your speakers like you warm up your engine.
My expensive speakers and subs take about 10minutes to warm up when it's really cold out.


As for your other issues... the high idle on my 3vz was like 2500 rpm for the first minute... on the 5vz it's about 1500 for 15 seconds then down to 1000... weird.. (weird for the 3vz)

Johny Quest

With the heater pads how long do you have to keep it plugged in for and how warm is the engine when you start it?

toyota4x4907

Depends on lots of things, including personal preference. For these older yotas, a few hours before you turn it on will be fine for the majority of places. I see -20F and colder all winter here, and personally, I just leave it plugged in all night. But I have a garage now so I only plug it in at work. There are plug-in timers you can get.
The engine isnt going to be any significant amounts warmer. It will just be warm enough that the fluids flow well mostly and the battery keeps charge. Still need to let it warm up before you drive and for heat in the cabin.

Johny Quest

I was wondering how much of a feat it would be to get our 3.0 4runner so warm that you hit the key and have almost instant heat in the morning. I have a garage, and a remote starter that I could install. The problem is the remote starter would not open the doors, so.......I am debating just replacing this $30 remote start for one that has door unlock. Ultimately This 93 4runner would still require the key to roll the rear window down unless a remote starter/unlock would have an aux that could be used for this. thinking really like to mount a simple switch or button that would control the rear window from outside when the door is unlocked! Now when I do this I would like to really beef up this motor on the rear window because it seems to really slow down on really cold days and I know because this is a 93 this rear window motor might just die. So what is the problem with these tailgate windows and what is the solution.
I think the real issue here Is figuring out how to use this cool website and how to find the right forum / blog to discuss this information......

aviator

spray the window tracks with a little white lithium grease and run the window up and down a few times. If you can remove the cover and get at the mechanism lube all the hinge pts. too.
The window is slow because the cold is tightening everything up.

85gijunk4x4

thx aviator for hleping me remeber something...

forgot to say this before, sparingly spray your weatherstipping around the doors with a wd40, or some type of oil lubracant, so your weatherstripping doesnt freeze your door shut, and it prevents you from ripping off thw weatherstripping...also when your doors freeze shut its quite embarrising when theres people watch you gently tug on your door for a good few minites

Johny Quest

Lubed everything up, Works FANTASTIC now! Much faster as well!

SUPREHATER88ER

My 71 Chevy 3/4 ton 2wd has had a freeze-plug heater in it since day 1!! Works great!!
Two years ago she started without a hitch after sitting for 3 weeks in sub-zero temps!
Brutal!

Swim

Block heater is relatively painless to install. It gets installed in the 2nd freeze plug on the drivers side. Pull out the old plug, usually I take a screwdriver and tap on one side, then pull it out with needle nose pliers. Take the block heater, rotate it so it fits in (look on package for the "o'clock" position)
Tighten screw.
Route cord to the front of the truck.
Zip-tie as needed.

Total time - 40 minutes.

I plug in when it's 10 and below. No problems starting, warms up faster, less wear on the engine.

Resto-noob

iTrader: (3)

Good suggestion, as it's -8 outside at the moment. It was -16 when I let my dog out at 4:45...

Just one thing to add, most diesel guys who plug in use heavy duty timers on the outlet-you can get them anywhere. Just set it for two hours or so before you plan to start up. Plugging in can get expensive.

aviator

These days you can get extension cords for use with block heaters that have thermostats on them so they only come on when the temp calls for them. I used a timer with my old 87 that turned on at 4am [@ 3hrs before I'd need the truck] and plugged her in every night regardless. Always had an instantly toasty truck.
Sadly where I park now has no power avail. so no BH for me ...

Alberta4x

Out here its below -20 on a regular basis, and its not uncommon to be below -30. I just run 5W instead of 10W oil, other than that I don't really do anything for the cold. I don't plug it in, it starts up just fine in the cold, I find the biggest thing is just to let it warm up enough before going anywhere otherwise it isn't too happy.

annoyingrob

^A thinner motor oil makes a world of difference when cold starting. My truck will start first crank even if it's been sitting in -35C for a week. I would highly recommend a block heater to most people regardless though. It's not so much about being able to start, it's about not damaging the motor while you're doing it. Have you ever looked at motor oil when it's -30 outside? It congeals into wax, almost like bacon grease. Try leaving a tin of oil out in your back yard for a night and see. Cold oil won't properly lubricate your motor. Try starting it, and see how long it takes before you see something other than 0 oil pressure. It takes several seconds if the oil is really cold before you get any pressure.

A block heater plugged in for 3 hours before you start your vehicle will make a massive differece in how eaily your motor will turn over, and how quickly the oil will start flowing in your motor. A pan heater on the transmission is a good idea too. I've had manuals that wouldn't shift into gear at -30, and autos that wouldn't move at all.


As for you guys talking about remote starters on manual transmissions, and driving into things etc, where the heck are you getting your remote starters? There are starters specifically designed for manual transmission vehicles to prevent issues like driving into things. They usually cost 20 or 30 bucks more than an automatic starter, and have a few more signals to tap into. My remote starter needs to see me pull the e-brake up, release the foot brake, open the door, and then close it all while the vehicle is still running so that it KNOWS that the vehicle is in neutral with the e-brake on, before it will engage the remote start feature. If yours isn't checking that sort of stuff, whoever installed it ripping you off, and is installing automatic transmission starters in your vehicle to save a few bucks.

Swim

Most shops should install them on a manual. I've got a compustar on my STI, you just have to go through the "shutdown procedure" and it works fine. Should cost you about an extra $100.

85gijunk4x4

i know this is an old, and out of season topic....

but put your transfer case in neutral, put it in first gear, let it idle for a few mins, switch to 3rd gear, let it idle a few mins, then to 5th gear and let it idle for a few mins....

this gets heat going on in the transmission and also gets the fluid circulating...

while your engine may be warm and ready to go, dont forget about your transmission...