Who has NOT broken bolts doing the t-stat?
#21
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Truth be told, they're all just knock-offs of the original. None of 'em are anything more than concentrated, suped up, WD-40!
None of 'em are a whole lot better than it neither. And generally speaking, if you can't get it with good ol' WD-40, you need a bigger hammer, a torch, and/or a cheater bar IMO.
None of 'em are a whole lot better than it neither. And generally speaking, if you can't get it with good ol' WD-40, you need a bigger hammer, a torch, and/or a cheater bar IMO.
OT.
I have to agree with that. Though I have found some times I want a thick agent to sit on something (I use the PB) and when I want a thin one, I use the WD-40.
If I could only choose 1, it'd be the WD40 though. I just wish they'd stop doing up their cans so it costs more.
Just a plain tip with a straw will suit me fine.
Me no likey the more expensive "smart straw". (Just how long you think I'll have the can?)
/OT
Last edited by tried4x2signN; 02-01-2011 at 06:35 PM.
#22
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Thanks Bob, that's something to look at because my heater controls are "snug" to say the least!
Even if that can fix the heat problem though, I still want to install a Toyota dual stage t-stat as preventative maintenance at some point, and sooner rather than later. I'm replacing the fan clutch very soon, I'd like to do both at the same time and not have to think about overheating for a long time.
Even if that can fix the heat problem though, I still want to install a Toyota dual stage t-stat as preventative maintenance at some point, and sooner rather than later. I'm replacing the fan clutch very soon, I'd like to do both at the same time and not have to think about overheating for a long time.
#23
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holy crap it only took 15 post for someone to pick up on that. to you sir i applaud. instead of a penetrating oil thread you actually posted towards his initial problem.
and hes right. you need to check these things before you waist your money. see if your getting flow through your core like the other gentleman posted. and lucky for you, you have a first gen runner. which means you have two cables coming from your heater control. one for your valve under the hood. (should be open) and the other one going to your door that controls air flow from your heater core or your a/c side.
if that door doesn't fully close then you'll loose a crazy amount of heat. i know this because mine did this. my lever was snug to move. and the valve is stuck open. (fine for winter) but stuck in a place my door wouldn't fully close but looked like it was.
disconnect that cable to the door and see if you have full swing. if you do then great you probably have a clog in your core. or just a tricky stat. but its better to check then to throw money at it and hope you don't break bolts.
after i did that i had to roll my window down while im out wheeling to let some of the heat out. its crazy warm now. so investigate and trouble shoot before you do a ton of work and still get the same result.
and hes right. you need to check these things before you waist your money. see if your getting flow through your core like the other gentleman posted. and lucky for you, you have a first gen runner. which means you have two cables coming from your heater control. one for your valve under the hood. (should be open) and the other one going to your door that controls air flow from your heater core or your a/c side.
if that door doesn't fully close then you'll loose a crazy amount of heat. i know this because mine did this. my lever was snug to move. and the valve is stuck open. (fine for winter) but stuck in a place my door wouldn't fully close but looked like it was.
disconnect that cable to the door and see if you have full swing. if you do then great you probably have a clog in your core. or just a tricky stat. but its better to check then to throw money at it and hope you don't break bolts.
after i did that i had to roll my window down while im out wheeling to let some of the heat out. its crazy warm now. so investigate and trouble shoot before you do a ton of work and still get the same result.
#24
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What is so good about the stealership's thermostat that justifies the higher price?
Get a generic one. If it has one of those crazy brass plugs that are supposed to wiggle to let air by, cut it out. If there is no brass jiggle thing, drill a 1/8th inch hole in the thermostat.
This will ensure you get the air purged very quickly, and accomplish everything the dual thermostat does for much cheaper.
#25
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I hate it when people give horrible advice.
What is so good about the stealership's thermostat that justifies the higher price?
Get a generic one. If it has one of those crazy brass plugs that are supposed to wiggle to let air by, cut it out. If there is no brass jiggle thing, drill a 1/8th inch hole in the thermostat.
This will ensure you get the air purged very quickly, and accomplish everything the dual thermostat does for much cheaper.
What is so good about the stealership's thermostat that justifies the higher price?
Get a generic one. If it has one of those crazy brass plugs that are supposed to wiggle to let air by, cut it out. If there is no brass jiggle thing, drill a 1/8th inch hole in the thermostat.
This will ensure you get the air purged very quickly, and accomplish everything the dual thermostat does for much cheaper.
just food for thought.
#26
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Thanks Bob, that's something to look at because my heater controls are "snug" to say the least!
Even if that can fix the heat problem though, I still want to install a Toyota dual stage t-stat as preventative maintenance at some point, and sooner rather than later. I'm replacing the fan clutch very soon, I'd like to do both at the same time and not have to think about overheating for a long time.
Even if that can fix the heat problem though, I still want to install a Toyota dual stage t-stat as preventative maintenance at some point, and sooner rather than later. I'm replacing the fan clutch very soon, I'd like to do both at the same time and not have to think about overheating for a long time.
pop your hood. and on the driver side kinda towards the middle you'll see a cable attached to your heater core hoses to a lever (your valve) have someone operate your lever in the cab and see if it moves the heater valve on the fire wall. it should pull it towards the fire wall for the heat to be on. that's where you want to get it to operating temp to see if you have even temp on both hoses. (good flow)
that little trap door that i was telling you about is located under the passenger side glove box. kinda in the kick panel towards the center console. you'll see it when you operate your heater control cable. it will be the only one you can see. if you follow it with your fingers you will find a plastic dowel that the cable wraps around. you can "help" close it by pulling your heater control lever towards the hot side and help "push" close the door. or simply like i did for winter just pull the cable down and off the dowel and close the door manually.
i will fix mine when summer hits. its literally -50 (no joke) wind chill here and has been for a few days. and the runner heats better then my 04 celica does. and i just cracked my windshield on that yesterday. hot blower heat on cold windsheild sounded like someone taking a base ball bat to my windshield from that tiny chip i used to have.
but i'd source your problem first before putting in parts. because if something doesn't act right then you really have that much more you have to look over. fix one thing at a time. usually the stuff thats broken.
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