Wheel sound not a bearing not a shock mount.
#1
Wheel sound not a bearing not a shock mount.
I have a strange sound in my 87 22re 4Runner has 1 inch bj spacer and I don't get it all the time not sure if it might be a cv joint or what but it makes a big pop sound when I'm turning sharp
And when I was going about 50 on the freeway it would have a kinda grind sound or a random rubbing sound and then goes away any idea? I'm pretty damn sure it coming from the passenger side front wheel. I jacked up the truck and Tried to wobble it around nothing all was tight checked the shocks and the spacer to make sure I don't know how to check the Cv. It seemed to not happen in 4wd if that makes a difference.
And when I was going about 50 on the freeway it would have a kinda grind sound or a random rubbing sound and then goes away any idea? I'm pretty damn sure it coming from the passenger side front wheel. I jacked up the truck and Tried to wobble it around nothing all was tight checked the shocks and the spacer to make sure I don't know how to check the Cv. It seemed to not happen in 4wd if that makes a difference.
#2
You could be dealing with two separate problems. The popping sound could be a ball joint. Its is best to check them both when loaded and unloaded. What I do is I jack up the truck by the lower control arm on the side I am checking and move the wheel up and down to check for any movement. I will also put a pry bar\pipe between the wheel and ground for extra leverage and see if I get any movement that way. After that I jack up the truck by the frame so that the suspension hangs and repeat the above tests.
Another thing to check is the control arm bushings for wear/cracks/etc..and loose bolts.
Another thing to check is the control arm bushings for wear/cracks/etc..and loose bolts.
#3
Gotcha thanks I'm hoping its just a ball joint my thought is that it could be the Cv joint but why would it not be there when I engage 4wd? Is the question and I only really noticed the grinding over 50 mph
#4
FYI: To check cv joints, first inspect the boot. Without a tear to allow the grease to fall out, it should be fine.
Lock the hubs. Then, IN A DIRT LOT, to avoid binding in the diff, drive in a tight circle, starting slowly but getting progressively faster. Âs you turn left, listen for clicking coming from the loaded right side. Then switch direction for the other side. You'll do this in two wheel then four wheel drive as necessary.
Lock the hubs. Then, IN A DIRT LOT, to avoid binding in the diff, drive in a tight circle, starting slowly but getting progressively faster. Âs you turn left, listen for clicking coming from the loaded right side. Then switch direction for the other side. You'll do this in two wheel then four wheel drive as necessary.
#5
So went to get a alignment guy wouldn't touch it because all my steering components are to loose and worn so I need new pitman idler wheel bearings. Wasn't the ball joints wasn't the cv joint but the axle it self was not bolted inside the hub Attachment 103738 any one got brands they like to replace ifs parts with besides sas!! Haha I wish. Any upgraded pieces
#6
I haven't had any trouble with Moog parts on any of my vehicles as long as you don't mind using a grease gun. I've also heard that the Autozone Idler arm is one of the better ones. Search for idler arm rebuild and you'll find plenty about it. Might even be able to rebuild yours.
#7
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#8
So keep my driving went fine on the way to Seattle now I hear this random rotational almost sounds like I have a flat?! Obviously I get out see there's no flat. I'll check today in the sunlight. I tried moving the Cv axle out as it was sliding in and out before. Could this be a hub issue ? I have automatic hubs
#9
So buying parts I've got idler arm wheel bearings and seals are there any other parts that should be replaced involving steering and wheel alignment tie rods? Drag link ? What about the pitman ?
#10
Well time has passed I replaced idler arm steering damper and all the tie rods with new sleeves. Still have to do bearings and pitman. Found part of the sound I'm missing a washer or something on my driver side sway bar. The link that attaches to the lca is going in and out of the hole and getting caught up on it need to replace the links the bushings are messed up and so are the drop bushings that hold the bar in place on the frame. That thing is noisy. Can I just get rid of the bar? Or should I really be safe and keep it on there. I'm done putting money into the ifs as well. I was gonna get a set of 3rd members with 4.88 gears but buying a 250$ 7.5 3rd seems silly to buy. So sad will happen this summer hopefully. I'm still gonna do the bearings and put man tho just so this thing will be drivable till I park it and start hacking and grinding.
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Talk about some bad camber and toe in. 100 $ for 2 33" Toyos not to bad now look at them
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Talk about some bad camber and toe in. 100 $ for 2 33" Toyos not to bad now look at them
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