What seal packing (gasket material) do you prefer
#1
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What seal packing (gasket material) do you prefer
I'd like to hear an informed (or even uninformed) opinion regarding the best sealant to use when, let us say, I replace the cam caps.
For years I've used Permatex No. 2 Form-A-Gasket Sealant (about $4 for 3oz), but I once had a poor result (on that cam cap). I suspect that I might not have cleaned off the oil well enough.
I've used Permatex Water Pump and Tstat Housing Sealant (about $4 for 0.5oz) with reliable results on water connections (that right angle piece through the timing belt cover, for instance).
I've had reliable good results with Permatex Sensor-Safe Blue RTV 6B ($5 for 3oz). I used that on the cam cap re-do, as well as on the corners of the valve cover gasket (for instance). It supposedly sets up good to go in 24 hours (and I've certainly started the truck in that time frame), but I've noticed the stuff in the cap takes more like 5 days to set all the way through
Some on this list have vouched for Permatex Gasket Maker: The Right Stuff. Apparently, that is a catalyzing silicone that sets up in about 10 minutes. It looks like it takes a special can with propellant. I've never used it because a) I'm not fast enough to beat the 10 minute limit, and b) $13/ 4oz turned me off to it. But I can see why somebody working on the clock might prefer it.
Toyota sells a silicone sealant for ... $20.83 (3oz). The gentleman on the phone wasn't making any money by talking to me, so I might have the details wrong, but I think that is also a catalyzing "fast-acting" sealant.
Of course, this is a subject on which some have opinions approaching religious fervor. And this is as good a place as any to state them. But if you have some particular knowledge why one sealant would work better than another (and in what applications; I suspect that water vs. oil vs. gasoline could make a big difference), it would sure help me out.
For years I've used Permatex No. 2 Form-A-Gasket Sealant (about $4 for 3oz), but I once had a poor result (on that cam cap). I suspect that I might not have cleaned off the oil well enough.
I've used Permatex Water Pump and Tstat Housing Sealant (about $4 for 0.5oz) with reliable results on water connections (that right angle piece through the timing belt cover, for instance).
I've had reliable good results with Permatex Sensor-Safe Blue RTV 6B ($5 for 3oz). I used that on the cam cap re-do, as well as on the corners of the valve cover gasket (for instance). It supposedly sets up good to go in 24 hours (and I've certainly started the truck in that time frame), but I've noticed the stuff in the cap takes more like 5 days to set all the way through
Some on this list have vouched for Permatex Gasket Maker: The Right Stuff. Apparently, that is a catalyzing silicone that sets up in about 10 minutes. It looks like it takes a special can with propellant. I've never used it because a) I'm not fast enough to beat the 10 minute limit, and b) $13/ 4oz turned me off to it. But I can see why somebody working on the clock might prefer it.
Toyota sells a silicone sealant for ... $20.83 (3oz). The gentleman on the phone wasn't making any money by talking to me, so I might have the details wrong, but I think that is also a catalyzing "fast-acting" sealant.
Of course, this is a subject on which some have opinions approaching religious fervor. And this is as good a place as any to state them. But if you have some particular knowledge why one sealant would work better than another (and in what applications; I suspect that water vs. oil vs. gasoline could make a big difference), it would sure help me out.
#2
I use the toyota brand "FIPG". I have used it on everything from oil pans to water pumps and on, and it works GREAT.
It works better than any other sealant I have ever found.
When I don't have a tube of FPIG, the only thing I will use is the Permatex "Right stuff". It seals about as well as Toyota's FIPG, and comes in a handy pressurized dispenser.
It works better than any other sealant I have ever found.
When I don't have a tube of FPIG, the only thing I will use is the Permatex "Right stuff". It seals about as well as Toyota's FIPG, and comes in a handy pressurized dispenser.
#4
Toyota FIPG is permatex just with a toyota label on it. Ive talked to a permatex rep and all the dealerships use permatex just with their own lable on it, some even add dye to it to make it look different. All you have to do it make sure its sensor safe which most on the packages say that, a good rule of thumb is if it smells like vineger dont use it. Ive always used the permatex ultra grey for imports and ultra black on domestic. They both do the same thing but ultra grey can be used with antifreeze and ultra black is better with oil. They say on the back of the packages what the oem equivelent is and part number. If I have a gasket sometimes I use High Tack to make it stick. The Rightstuf is good to if you dont have time to wait as it will cure in 1 minute. Also if anyone has plastic headlights permatex sells a kit to sand and buff the oxidation out. A customer brought his lexus to the dealer to have his headlights fixed and they charged him $300.00 and they used the $15.00 permatex kit, they look like new.
Last edited by 854x4; 07-04-2008 at 01:02 PM.
#7
Toyota FIPG is permatex just with a toyota label on it. Ive talked to a permatex rep and all the dealerships use permatex just with their own lable on it, some even add dye to it to make it look different. All you have to do it make sure its sensor safe which most on the packages say that, a good rule of thumb is if it smells like vineger dont use it. Ive always used the permatex ultra grey for imports and ultra black on domestic. They both do the same thing but ultra grey can be used with antifreeze and ultra black is better with oil. They say on the back of the packages what the oem equivelent is and part number. If I have a gasket sometimes I use High Tack to make it stick. The Rightstuf is good to if you dont have time to wait as it will cure in 1 minute. Also if anyone has plastic headlights permatex sells a kit to sand and buff the oxidation out. A customer brought his lexus to the dealer to have his headlights fixed and they charged him $300.00 and they used the $15.00 permatex kit, they look like new.
Haha I love it when people post things like this.
So the PERMATEX rep told you this, and you believed it? I believe David Hannum said it best with "There's a sucker born every minute"
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#8
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Ive used Permatex Ultra Grey (which cross references the Toyota FIPG part number on the package) in areas the require a FIPG (oil pan)
For the Diff I prefer the old skool paper gasket and coat it in Permatex super 300 (?) which comes as brush on can thing... the paper stays pliable years later and peels off w/o residue and chasing slivers of silicone bits...
For the Diff I prefer the old skool paper gasket and coat it in Permatex super 300 (?) which comes as brush on can thing... the paper stays pliable years later and peels off w/o residue and chasing slivers of silicone bits...
#10
Well you can go ahead and pay dealer prices for the permatex with the fancy toyota label and I will just stick with good old permatex with the permatex label on it. Same stuff
#14
I will have to try the Toyota FIPG.
Yamabond from the Yamaha motorcycle dealer is good for fuel/oil stuff, and in a machined surface>machined surface without a gasket. It can be hard to clean, so use sparingly. I use it in "corners" where gaskets come together, in little dollops. Heh, dollops.
Yamabond from the Yamaha motorcycle dealer is good for fuel/oil stuff, and in a machined surface>machined surface without a gasket. It can be hard to clean, so use sparingly. I use it in "corners" where gaskets come together, in little dollops. Heh, dollops.
#16
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Permatex right stuff.
The shop I work at gets it in a can that can be used with a caulk gun. We've used it on everything from Corvette LS motors to chrysler 3.0's
I've used it on my Runner on the oil pan, my mom's Chevy 3.4l intake manifold between the heads (done that twice!) and on my lawnmowers...
It is expensive, but there is more that meets the eye in that little 4oz bottle...
The shop I work at gets it in a can that can be used with a caulk gun. We've used it on everything from Corvette LS motors to chrysler 3.0's
I've used it on my Runner on the oil pan, my mom's Chevy 3.4l intake manifold between the heads (done that twice!) and on my lawnmowers...
It is expensive, but there is more that meets the eye in that little 4oz bottle...
#17
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I use and have used permatex hi temp orange on almost everything and never had a problem. I use it on diff covers with no gasket. I have also used it alone on headers on sb chevs with no gasket. You have to know how to use it it has to cure some before slapping stuff together. If the toyota stuff is $20 i will stick with permatex, to many proven results and no leaks.
#18
I kind of think that the million different colours of Permatex are a bit of a marketing ploy as you end up buying two or three instead of one. My guess is that grey would work for everything. I'm using it on my oil pan and rear diff. Black worked, as did orange. I doubt there's that much difference.
#19
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I've had good luck using various Hylomar sealants. In particular they have a non-hardening sealant that can be used to hold gaskets in place and allows for repositioning of the parts. I've used it on valve covers, carb baseplates and intake gaskets with great results.
For the most part though, if you follow the directions for applying the sealant and apply the correct torque you should not have a problem. If the directions say to allow 24 hours to cure, give it 24. Don't rush it. Premature exposure to oil/coolant/fuel can interfere with the curing process and weaken them. If it says to apply a 1/8" bead, do so, but keep in mind that too much can be just as bad as too little.
For the most part though, if you follow the directions for applying the sealant and apply the correct torque you should not have a problem. If the directions say to allow 24 hours to cure, give it 24. Don't rush it. Premature exposure to oil/coolant/fuel can interfere with the curing process and weaken them. If it says to apply a 1/8" bead, do so, but keep in mind that too much can be just as bad as too little.
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Permatex Black or Red/Orange for almost everything (Which ever color I have, usually black cuz work buys it and it matches the paint on the engine)
Permatex Copper for exhaust quick fixes (like the O2 sensor leaking)
Indian Head works great too.
If you're dumb enough to believe that Toyota or Permatex make their own Silicone... I got ocean front property in Montana I'm selling. Are they the same, probably pretty close but not exact.
Permatex Copper for exhaust quick fixes (like the O2 sensor leaking)
Indian Head works great too.
If you're dumb enough to believe that Toyota or Permatex make their own Silicone... I got ocean front property in Montana I'm selling. Are they the same, probably pretty close but not exact.