What EVERYONE should know about their truck & the 3VZE
#121
Super useful information. My wife's truck has this same engine, made life interesting with gasket replacement at 362000km but runs strong still. Just hit over 600000km in September and still runs great. Yes some of these engines can be a hassle, I guess it depends on what kind of life its had and build/repair quality it underwent will determine most major issues. We pull 3000lbs quite often and do lots of uphill driving and haven't had much issue. Won't do it forever and she is getting old but it is a good engine for us.
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Prunejuice (08-28-2020)
#122
I love the new text color! This write-up is hella helpful. I have run into all of these problems prior to finding this thread, I am glad i'm not the only one (and i've seemed to approach each the same way recommend). Also everyone, our powering steering pumps DO NOT take power steering fluid. huge mistake i've made. Thought it should be added for newbie techs like myself.
#123
Registered User
I build a lot of 3.0 engines for people and block condition is a problem if maintenance is not done on schedule. Toyota themselves recommend the green antifreeze. Engines with cast iron blocks have been used since engines were created an pose little problem if coolant is replaced on a regular basis. What you have here is a cast iron block with aluminum heads which causes problems with dissimilar metals and intergranular corrosion. All cast iron blocks will corrode if antifreeze is not changed. Even worse is that the aluminum will corrode as well.
Your best bet with these blocks is to flush and change the green antifreeze every 1 to 2 years and if still worried about it then run a sacrificial zinc anode in the radiator. You can buy a radiator cap with a zinc anode connected to it.
The Toyota red won't fix a system that has already corroded.
Your best bet with these blocks is to flush and change the green antifreeze every 1 to 2 years and if still worried about it then run a sacrificial zinc anode in the radiator. You can buy a radiator cap with a zinc anode connected to it.
The Toyota red won't fix a system that has already corroded.
#124
VF1A transfer output shaft
I'm in need of an output shaft(mine is bent) for a VF1A transfer case out of my 94 Runner. Anyone know where I can get one? Also need a rebuild kit for this transfer case do they have one anywhere?
#128
Registered User
Output shaft
I am not familiar with that part number. Is that the out put shaft for the automatic or the manual? I have a complete transfer case for an automatic if that is the one you need.
#129
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Some great tips
Bought my '94 3.0 4Runner in 2000, with 98k miles on the motor (after previously owning an '84pu, '88pu and '89 4Runner). We call her the Black Pearl. Through the years, I've done much of the suggestions/tips in this thread. Lots of upgrades done for off-road and performance, too. She went to 379k miles before the dreaded head gaskets went again in 2015 (for the 4th time!) and cracked the upper block. Got a re-manufactured motor and was on the road again. Gone through all the heartaches of all the HG issues, and thought I was done with them, since I've done so much of the suggested maintenance, mentioned here. Damn, it it didn't happen again this weekend! Guess whoever rebuilt that last motor, didn't find the "new and improved Toyota head gaskets" to put on. Geez. I've got 420,500k miles out of her...thought I could hit the 500k mark. "Oh, what a feeling, Toyota"!...right? Wife is bugging me to get to get rid of her. Gonna miss the Black Pearl.
#130
I'm stealing this post from ToyotaNation.com; it is one of the best, most complete posts I've EVER seen in response to what to look for with your 3VZE truck; I vote this should be a sticky!
Link to original thread:http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=283353
Link to original thread:http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=283353
#131
Registered User
I need help my 3vze
I'm stealing this post from ToyotaNation.com; it is one of the best, most complete posts I've EVER seen in response to what to look for with your 3VZE truck; I vote this should be a sticky!
Link to original thread:http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=283353
Link to original thread:http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=283353
#132
Intermediate rough idle with sputtering during acceleration
I'm stealing this post from ToyotaNation.com; it is one of the best, most complete posts I've EVER seen in response to what to look for with your 3VZE truck; I vote this should be a sticky!
Link to original thread:http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=283353
Link to original thread:http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=283353
a friend of mine said maybe the cam position sensor?
Last edited by Tyler Milliron; 06-26-2019 at 10:01 PM. Reason: Update
#133
Registered User
These runners can be touchy. Looks like your trying all the obvious items. things to check would also be: check valve adjustments, you could have a tight one in that cylinder, check to see your power brake booster is not leaking( will cause lean condition in one cylinder making NOX sky high),put a old school timing light on the bad cylinder and watch the light to make sure your coil is not crapping out, I usually replace all the fuel injector connectors when changing injectors ( you could have a partially broken wire or bad connection), also check the plenum gaskets for air leaks, sometimes the TPS adjustment is hard to get right and will cause some bad missing if not right ( I gave up on the book adjustment and adjust it by ear to where it runs right). Sometimes it's just trial and error till you hit on the problem, but it will get there.
Good luck hunting.
Good luck hunting.
#136
Registered User
#137
Registered User
This thread saved my marriage
Thank you OP! I've referenced this write up over a hundred times, and it has been a huge help.
I'm a first time wrencher and long time DIYer, and I've had a lot of fun (for the most part) tinkering on my 2nd Gen 1995 4Runner 3vze manual 4WD with 195k miles.
Work history documented below. What next? I'm itching to upgrade the suspension, maybe bolt on some headers and replace the cat & muffler? Intake mods seem easy and inexpensive, but I have read mixed reviews on whether there is any benefit. Should I delete the EGR or wait until something breaks? It's running pretty great right now, but now I have the itch to wrench. Being quarantined due to COVID-19 is intensifying this itch.
My goals are to increase performance (power and MPG), keep this thing running for another 200k miles, and keep it "stock+" (close to original but enhanced). It's a daily driver. I don't have any offroad aspirations.
July 2019
Upcoming projects planned:
I'm a first time wrencher and long time DIYer, and I've had a lot of fun (for the most part) tinkering on my 2nd Gen 1995 4Runner 3vze manual 4WD with 195k miles.
Work history documented below. What next? I'm itching to upgrade the suspension, maybe bolt on some headers and replace the cat & muffler? Intake mods seem easy and inexpensive, but I have read mixed reviews on whether there is any benefit. Should I delete the EGR or wait until something breaks? It's running pretty great right now, but now I have the itch to wrench. Being quarantined due to COVID-19 is intensifying this itch.
My goals are to increase performance (power and MPG), keep this thing running for another 200k miles, and keep it "stock+" (close to original but enhanced). It's a daily driver. I don't have any offroad aspirations.
July 2019
- New alternator
- New battery
- New rear brake drums
- New master cylinder
- New water pump
- New timing belt
- New clutch slave cylinder
- Fixed surf window switch
- New fuel filter
- New radiator fan shroud
- New windshield
- New thermostat
- New JVC stereo receiver with microphone and Bluetooth
- New Rockford Fosgate front dash speakers
- New Denso plugs
- New NGK performance plug wires
- New Denso OEM rotor
- New Denso OEM distributor cap
- New reverse light switch
- New front blinkers
- Lubed surf window and sunroof joints
- New Aisin door lock actuator in passenger door
- New Toyota OEM power radio antenna
- New upper air intake hose
- Cleaned valves
- Changed transmission fluid with Redline MT90
- New Denso oxygen sensors
- Cleaned EGR system and replaced gaskets
- New power steering idle air control valve
- Changed power steering fluid
- New shifter knob
- New coolant temp sensor
- New Toyota OEM thermostat
- New Weathertech cargo liner
- Head gasket rebuild
- Resurfaced heads
- New knock sensor & wiring harness
- New front bumper
- New taillight and rear blinker bulbs
- New Toyota OEM shifter bushing and seat collar
- New Denso OEM throttle position sensor
- Changed fluid in front & rear differentials and transfer case. Valvoline 75w90
- New battery
- New Toyota OEM battery harness
Upcoming projects planned:
- Replace o rings on oil cooler (nasty leak).
- Remove the tach cluster and clean the contacts, tighten everything up (I'm getting the irregular tach jumping likely caused by a bad connection in the cluster).
- Moog rear coil springs & spacers (getting a little butt sag and the ride is a little rough).
- Replace missing skid plate.
- Clean up the engine bay without frying anything.
Last edited by ATX4Runner; 03-30-2020 at 11:46 AM.
#138
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No. Deleting the EGR won't help performance or mileage. Since one of the effects of the EGR is to reduce peak combustion temperature, there are some who think deleting the EGR will shorten engine life. Maybe.
Are you exempt from smog checks in Travis County already? If not, you'll need the EGR to pass. And your options for selling your 4runner are significantly reduced if you're missing any emissions equipment (you wouldn't be able to register it in California without EGR, FWIW.)
Last, and certainly not least, it's the air you (and the rest of us) are breathing that you're poisoning. Let the EGR do its job.
Are you exempt from smog checks in Travis County already? If not, you'll need the EGR to pass. And your options for selling your 4runner are significantly reduced if you're missing any emissions equipment (you wouldn't be able to register it in California without EGR, FWIW.)
Last, and certainly not least, it's the air you (and the rest of us) are breathing that you're poisoning. Let the EGR do its job.
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#140
Ditto
From 2006 to 2014 I owned a 1990 Extended Chassis, One Ton, Dual Wheel rear floating axle, pickup, built into a C-Class motorhome by Winnebago. It was powered by the 3VZE. I agree with everything said in the above-mentioned write-up. During my ownership I replaced the timing belt, water pump, and idler pulleys, adjusted the valves, just to name a few. I also repacked the rear axle wheel bearings and adjusted the brakes. The valve adjustments weren't too bad. With 72K miles on the engine, only about three or four of the valves needed adjustment. My local Toyota Dealer's parts department was well managed and I got the shims needed in two days. At first, I bought aftermarket brake rotors and a few seals but soon learned the best thing you can do for any Toyota is stick with OEM parts. Toyota's parts quality is a major reason for their dependability. The Only job I didn't do myself was a muffler replacement. When I sold the truck in 2014 it needed a new Catalytic Converter to pass CA emissions. That cost me $400.00. The biggest mistake was not removing the tags when I sold it. The new owner drove it to New York and started running toll gates and I would get the notice of violations.