infiltrator

lol sorry to bug AGAIN, but price range on that?

Elvota

I really don't think you are going to be successful at tapping metal tube unless it's at least 1/8" wall or more. There just won't be enough for the threads to grab IMO.

infiltrator

im pretty sure my pipe is 1/8'' thick

JonnyBoy

I tapped mine fine and it's right around or a lil under 1/8". Then again, I only tapped a couple 1/2" holes, then used increaser bushings for the pcv connection. Price range...Hellifino, my neighbor happened to have one 'cause he never throws away a tool. $10 mebbe? Remember to wrap it with teflon tape 4 or 5 times, mebbe more. If ya need more advice, I'll try like Hell to get online, but I'm headed to Tahoe for new year's tomorrow. Have fun!

infiltrator

well, today was a NIGHTMARE!!!

the pipe they SUPPOSIVELY bent to a 45 degree angle was shy about 2 more inches, and it was too long. first thing first, i took it back there. they bend it some more and i take it home again, measure up. its still not perfect but i figure it will work..
the pipe looks like crap. the bends look sloppy and nothing compared to what i see on here. i then go to LOWES, and look at cufflinks.
they have a 3'' one so im like "cool i will grab that one" and i measure up to the pipe and its WAYY TOO BIG!!!!
the pipe is supposed to be 3'' and im like what did they give me 2 1/2'' pipe (becaues it seems 2 1/2'' cufflink will work) but they dont have it. i get 2 adapters for the pipe 1/2'' and head out with NO cufflinks...

next stop, HOME DEPOT. again, they dont have the right cuff links either. im pretty pissed right now (this is after some time searching with no service from anyone....) so im about to throw in the towel guys. i see some 3'' pvc pipe, line that up and it MATCHES THE CUFFLINKS PERFECTLY!!! im freaking out now, thinking what am i gonna do, my truck is stuck for how much longer...

they tell me, "head to osh" they have tons of stuff... by now, ive had it, its a day wasted (gets dark at 4...) and i say why not...
osh had the SAME CUFFLINKS!!!!!!! so i bought 2' of pvc pipe and a pvc angle (45 degrees) and throw the pipe in the back of the car (i want to melt the damn thing right about now)...

OKAY, so i get home, now having pcv pipe instead of metal, ready to cut and fab and i have 2 MORE PROBLEMS!!!!! the 1/2'' brass fittings are too small, and the 3'' cufflinks are wayy too big to fit over the throttle body and the airbox outlet...
how can i make it fit?? what can i do? can i just get a 3'' to 2'' cufflink? will that work?

please help guys, im ready to give up on this. after 2 times to muffler shop, 2 times to both home depot and lowes, and now a trip to osh, im reallly getting pissy. i have to take my brass fittings back tomorrow (to home depot) and the cufflinks to osh so thats 2 stores tomorrow. help me!!!!!!!

Elvota

I think you are making this harder than it needs to be... or are having some bad luck.

Look at my post (#13). I have a picture of the couplings and tell you that they are 2.5" to 3". Just bring either your AFM or Throttle Body (AFM will most likley be easier) back to HD and go through their couplings.

The 3" PVC and the 3" pipe you got from the muffler supply will be measured in two different ways and have very different wall thickness. You didn't get screwed, you are just trying to combine a couple different ways of doing this mod and getting into trouble. If you want to use the muffler pipe, go to your local auto supply and look through the "Ricer" section. You'll find some couplings that will be much more likely to work with the thin muffler pipe.

Same goes with the brass fittings. You need to bring a section of tube from the original intake and get the correct barb size. The threaded end won't matter to much, especially with the PVC. You'll just drill a hole and the fitting will "self-thread" into the soft plastic. Just plan ahead and decide where you will drill the holes, run the lines and if a 90, 45 or straight fitting will work best.

infiltrator

i can tell you for a fact that they didnt have 3'' to 2.5'' couplings at either home depot or lowes. i didnt check osh too hard because i was in a hurry.

i got a 45 degree bend and 2 plastic pvc pipes. ill have to cut those to make it fit.
im pretty sure just sliding the pipes to the elbow will create enough of an airtight enclosure, meaning i wont have to glue or anything.

where else can i go? i mean i guess i could try pep boys or napa? those are the only 2 close.

one more question elvota
you said i need a bracket for the filter, please if you can provide more details on this, it would be very helpful.

Elvota

It is more than possible I am not recalling the dimensions of the couplings correctly... that's why you need to bring the AFM into HD and just play around with the fittings until you find some that will work. I do know that the fittings I found weren't anything special. I think the AFM/ Throttle body side was tight though. Remember, a lot of the Toyota parts are metric and the HD parts will all be standard.

Also, you did not get what I used as far as PVC. Not saying that what you got won't work, but you'll definitely want to glue the connections. I got a 45 degree sweep from the electrical aisle. The sweep is one piece, and gray in color. Your method will not be as smooth on the interior. Smoother equals better air flow. But to be honest, it probably won't make much difference.

The one thing that will change is the OD of the PVC you got. Being mine was a sweep, we are dealing with two different dimensions. You may need to find other couplings... or they may not even exist. I'd suggest finding the sweep in the electrical aisle and trying to duplicate what I did if you have grown tired of experimenting on your own.

The bracket is just a support for the AFM. Mine was metal and mounted from a bolt hole in the AFM and then tied into the fender. You don't want the AFM or air filter just bouncing around when you are all done.

Pep Boys will most likely have a "Ricer" section with couplings that will work for the muffler pipe you got a hold of. Again, you need to bring the parts you have into the store or at least take some really good measurements for comparison. And of course save you receipts... seems like you'll have a fair amount of stuff to return when all is said and done.

infiltrator

yeah definately. i will post up some pictures to show you whats going on. i guess i will glue it then, and make sure everything is nice and tight (seems like it would be, pvc holds water tight stuff :]

im off to home depot, wish me luck.
and osh too... (too much going on i know..)

Elvota

Yup.... glue is key. PVC glue actually "melts" the PVC together giving it a good seal. Without it, you'll have lot's of leaks.

Although, I really think the one piece sweep in the electrical aisle will work the best. My .02.

neoworm0

Sorry slight change of topic here but what does that hose that goes into the Intake silencer do. I can't seem to find a ref. to it in my FSM.

n8buddy

I used that exact kit when i did mine, i tried doing the other way but couldn't find the parts in my small town. I only had to cut a little of the end of the pipe and it came with all the breather fittings you need.

neoworm0

Well it seems like all the cool kids are doing this so I thought I might as well too.

Threw this together last night:
[IMG][/IMG]


Well took it for a ride this morning and I have to say that this is definitely one of the most worthless mods I have done. I would give it a "Bling" factor of 10 and a "Functionality" factor of 1.

The only reason it even gets a 1 is I got to take something out of the already cluttered 3vze engine bay. I would put this one up there with the carbon/leather shift knob the previous owner put in my truck.

As far as performance gain, "Zero". It doesn't even sound different. LOL Maybe if your truck was running like a pile of doodoo (been dying to use that word today) it would make a difference. I probably would have been better off spending this momey on a couple of steaks.

It shur is purdy tho. Don't take this post the wrong way. I'm not upset. Just wanted to let anyone thinking of doing this know not to expect much, or anything for that matter. Considering the actual PITA it is to do this I wouldn't reccomend it.

Elvota

I must admit Neoworm that I didn't find massive improvements from the mod either, but I had a torn intake and this mod fixed that problem on the cheap. I might have gotten minute HP gains but nothing I could really feel or maybe even a dyno could pick up. I did gain a bit of a growl though under full throttle.

After going the 3.4 route... I have questioned all the time and money I put into the 3.0 in the first place.

infiltrator

hello again! MY TRUCK IS FIXED!!! IT RUNS!!!

couple things. i only connected ONE hose (the one closest to the tb).
the other, i believe is called the resonator.
i dont remember when, but i am pretty sure that its okay to run without, just sounds noisy. its getting dark, so i said forget it for now.

my engine sounds putty, but only untill i get that put on there.
promise tomorrow i will have total pic's with a long story of what i did, and how i did it.

looks really bootlegged but oh well. no chrome on this, its almost all plastic haha. oh well. i got a good story for tomorrow...

untill then, i got to get to work.

infiltrator

ps, can anyone show me where the resonator hose is???

infiltrator

Alright so here's how I did my ISR Mod..

Got 1' of PVC pipe (3'' inside total is about 3.6'')
Used 3'' to 2'' cufflinks (or cuplinks i dont know which..)
The 2'' had to be lubricated to fit the engine tb and the airbox outlet (really hard to get it on, its butt tight...)

cut the pvc and threaded myself the fitting in (piece of cake no tap or anything!!!)

STILL NEED HELP ON WHAT A RESONATOR HOSE IS AND WHERE TO GET IT!!!

finally; pics :] thanks guys...


and finally, some pics of my truck after a wax :]

Elvota

You know what... that actually didn't turn out half bad. Nice job.

Not that you care, but the pipe you got a hold of is ABS, not PVC. Mind you, I am not 100% sure the sweep I kept telling you to get is classified as PVC either.

What did you end up doing for the support bracket?

Can't help you with your resonator question. But, I am not entirely clear on what you are asking. You just need to copy the number of connections and sources from your engine to the intake. If you had 2 lines going to the intake before, you need 2 lines going to your ABS now.

Or understand what lines can be deleted and how that may effect your engines operation.

infiltrator

well, that box under the airbox, i just left it there. i dont really care to mount anything haha, so i left the box down there.

i think this resonator is the right hose (look in the first pic the first hose leading down towards the fan) that i need to plug into the pipe.

is there any harm in leaving that box there? i know the whole point is to "remove it" but if i have to mount the airbox, id rather just leave it.

yeah, i thought it turned out pretty nice.
its much easier rather than using the pipe and bending it, just use the 45 degree ebow and some plastic pipe.
i would recomend using the plastic to others.

Elvota

Well... I believe any line you leave just hanging there will introduce unfiltered air to the component or possible engine.

Basically, the factory design used to draw filtered air, and now you have removed the filter.

You could tie this loose line into your ABS or maybe just get one of those little filters and attach it to the end of the line.

I don't see any real "harm" in leaving the box. The goal with a ISR mod is just to make the air flow as smooth and unrestricted as possible. Since the throttle body now has the most direct route possible, secondary routings shouldn't matter as much.