well I finally did it!
#1
well I finally did it!
$370 later, I ordered my suspention parts
*All new tie-rod ends, idler arms, pitman arm, and 4 new ball-joints
*1.5" ball-joint spacers from 4Crawler
*1" diff drop from 4Crawler
*2.5" longer greasable shackels from WabFab
we'll see how just the shackles in the rear work out; if is looks like I can get the front higher than the rear, then I'll get some OEM replacement springs, cause I'm sure these are shot...
but I'll have to wait till next paycheck to order the shocks now get's expensive quick... I'll wait till I get those, then install everything at once, and drive her up to the shop a whole 2 miles down the road from me and have it all professionally aligned, and she'll be ready for some 33"s! then 4.88s and lockers, then a little armor, maybe some sliders... oops, I've said too much
and I'm also thinking about replacing my CVs while I'm up there too; depends on how the $$$ is at the time, we'll see... both of the inner boots are ripped, so I dunno, I might be able to just get some new boots (I'd replace all 4 at once), some grease, take them apart and clean em up, and just stick em back in; they aren't making any noise right now, so why fix what aint broken...
but man I can't wait; expect a full writeup yall!
*All new tie-rod ends, idler arms, pitman arm, and 4 new ball-joints
*1.5" ball-joint spacers from 4Crawler
*1" diff drop from 4Crawler
*2.5" longer greasable shackels from WabFab
we'll see how just the shackles in the rear work out; if is looks like I can get the front higher than the rear, then I'll get some OEM replacement springs, cause I'm sure these are shot...
but I'll have to wait till next paycheck to order the shocks now get's expensive quick... I'll wait till I get those, then install everything at once, and drive her up to the shop a whole 2 miles down the road from me and have it all professionally aligned, and she'll be ready for some 33"s! then 4.88s and lockers, then a little armor, maybe some sliders... oops, I've said too much
and I'm also thinking about replacing my CVs while I'm up there too; depends on how the $$$ is at the time, we'll see... both of the inner boots are ripped, so I dunno, I might be able to just get some new boots (I'd replace all 4 at once), some grease, take them apart and clean em up, and just stick em back in; they aren't making any noise right now, so why fix what aint broken...
but man I can't wait; expect a full writeup yall!
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 11-17-2008 at 09:22 PM.
#3
#5
#7
Anyway, hope your install goes great
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#8
at least you guys have jobs...
but, yea, you need to take pics, so that when i do mine i can use em as reference...
and i know that its off thread topic, but pleeeeeaassee... wash a lil bit of the oil and grease off og the side of your motor while your down there...
but, yea, you need to take pics, so that when i do mine i can use em as reference...
and i know that its off thread topic, but pleeeeeaassee... wash a lil bit of the oil and grease off og the side of your motor while your down there...
#9
lol, I'll think about that Troy; I'm going to drench everything in WD40 and degreaser the whole week before I begin the work. I'll pull the skid plate down and hit it with the pressure washer at work (set on low, cause that thing's got some serious power), so hopefully it'll be well enough cleaned off, and everything will come apart rather easily
#10
hey guys, I just thought about something...
I want to get a brace between the lower control arms while I'm under there, but is that possible with the 1" diff drop?
Anyone ever installed the combination of both?
I want to get a brace between the lower control arms while I'm under there, but is that possible with the 1" diff drop?
Anyone ever installed the combination of both?
#12
precisely; I wasn't sure if dropping the diff an 1" with would create some clearance issues
anyone got both the brace and diff drop installed?
the braces aren't all that expensive at all, so it's a good thing to do while I'm under there
anyone got both the brace and diff drop installed?
the braces aren't all that expensive at all, so it's a good thing to do while I'm under there
#14
It's actually a good thing for IFS with BJ spacers- won't tear up the outer joints as quickly when they're cranked in for lift.
The only issue you may encounter is interference from the front diff flange, and any fab shop should be able to work around it.
Last edited by abecedarian; 11-18-2008 at 08:15 PM.
#15
Even if no one has a specific "ball joint spacer with differential drop" suspension brace having one fabricated will not hurt anything at all.The only issue you may encounter is interference from the front diff flange, and any fab shop should be able to work around it.
the guys at the shop at work have everything; plenty of welding equpiment, plasma cutters, grinders, and so on, so if I run into problems, I'll just bring it up there and we can tweak it after work one day. I'd have em fab one up, but for $40, I'll save the trouble and just take one measurement between the arms and have someone else make it
That's the beauty of it being IFS; I don't have to worry about the diff moving around; once I get the brace in there just right with no clearance issues, I'm golden
Thanks for all the comments everyone btw! The BJ-spacers and diff drop hardware should be here tomorrow already; 4Crawler doesn't screw around with his shipping!
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 11-18-2008 at 08:26 PM.
#17
i thought i remembered something on roger's website talking about not being able to run a support like that with the dif drop... might wanna PM him about that and let us all know...
#18
The IFS truss won't work with the diff drop unless you make your own and then you will probably lose some ground clearance.
As you can see there is no room for a diff drop.
You don't need the diff drop as long as you don't crank the torsion bars too much.
Check out the Sonoran Steel IFS truss, very beefy! I would also look into the Downey idler arm brace.
Nice truck!
Robb
As you can see there is no room for a diff drop.
You don't need the diff drop as long as you don't crank the torsion bars too much.
Check out the Sonoran Steel IFS truss, very beefy! I would also look into the Downey idler arm brace.
Nice truck!
Robb
#19
The IFS truss won't work with the diff drop unless you make your own and then you will probably lose some ground clearance.
As you can see there is no room for a diff drop.
You don't need the diff drop as long as you don't crank the torsion bars too much.
Check out the Sonoran Steel IFS truss, very beefy! I would also look into the Downey idler arm brace.
Nice truck!
Robb
As you can see there is no room for a diff drop.
You don't need the diff drop as long as you don't crank the torsion bars too much.
Check out the Sonoran Steel IFS truss, very beefy! I would also look into the Downey idler arm brace.
Nice truck!
Robb
Yeah I seen Sonoran Steel's, but then I saw the one on Downey's page right under the Idler Arm Gusset, which I'm probably going to order as well (I would have bought and installed one by now, but it would appear I don't have the factory idler arm from Toyota on it; it's got that wierd aftermarket replacement one that's shorter that I guess the PO had put on there, but the new one is the Toyota OEM design that's servicable), and before I bolt it on I'll probably tear it apart, put in some brass bushings, and drill and tap the side of it so I can grease the Idler Arm (yep, I'm go'n all out ), and since that top bolt is off I could install the gusset. I kinda like Downey's front truss though; anyone have any comments on Downey's truss? Anyone ever used it, or attempted to use it with a 1" diff drop? Or if someone has it installed, how much room is there to play with above it?
And as far as not needing the diff drop if I don't crank the torsion bars; I'm going to leave the torsion at about stock setting, so it's going to lift the front a bit anyway which is going to throw my CV angles out, so that's why I'm doing the diff drop.
But I'm pretty syked about it; all my replacement chassis parts came in today (all my tie-rods, ball joints, idler and pitman arm), and off topic I also got in the mail today a coil and ignitor I scored on eBay for $10 in almost brand new condition Mine's not malfunctioning yet, but for the deal I couldn't pass it up considering they go for $40+ on a regular basis; but that's what came in today, I was thinking my 4Crawler order was the one that was going to come in, but no big deal; not like it's all getting installed this weekend...
#20
4crawler does do some awesome shipping. i ordered stuff form him and this other place the same day, hes in cali i think and the other place was in utah, his got here 4 days before the utah crap did. and im in va