superex87

I am thinking because it wants to take off at higher rpm sounds like a timing issue.
But the bogging seems like it would be fuel related?

The only singles system that controls both is the electrical system.....your going to have to go through each system and determine if i is working correctly.

so
1. check charging/ grounds
2. check timing
3. check fuel pump/ pressure/ wiring to fuel pump
4. check engine electronics that will affect the timing i.e. knock sensor
5. check plugs for lean/ rich

bone collector

sounds like egr related to me problemsto me.. ive had similar issues and it was egr related to cure it

kooolr

check your vaf air flow meter vane for smooth cycling- as it can affect fuel pump operation IIRC.

Hurley

I registered just to answer your question...I hope. It was brought up by a couple members above, but seems to have been overlooked.

Check your timing! Super easy to do, shouldn't cost you a dime. If you don't have a timing light, borrow one from somebody. This sounds like your timing is off. Report back and let us know what you find.

Good luck!

ChzSoda

If the TPS is wonky, or if there is a code 51 stored (true for me), my understanding is that the engine won't enter diagnostic mode when you jumper the fuse box, and thus you can't actually set the timing. I mean, you can adjust it all you want, but there's not really any saying where it's actually set.

Mark1260

Thanks for all of your suggestions guys. I have the day off so I will start looking into them .

Mark1260

Interesting turn of events...

So I was starting her up yesterday and the fan basically blew up lol. It blew into a million pieces and did some damage. Destroyed the battery, and some of the intake components. Basically, it was a pretty good excuse to do the ISR mod. Well, I did it, and now the hesitation/bogging down is way worse. Which got me thinking. Now, it is getting more air faster, and the problem is worse, so it sounds to me like it is not getting enough fuel... I have ran the injector cleaner stuff recently (probably a waste of money), but it changed nothing.

ChzSoda

Guy at my Napa here said that he's seen the connection at the tank get weird and reduce the flow juuuust enough to not run right at higher RPM's. Something about the change from the hardline to the rubber line down at the tank. Also said that a clogged up strainer could be partially to blame. I just filled up, so I'll have to wait til she's empty before I can drop the tank and check it out.

bone collector

change the fuel filter and check the idle screw on the side of the throttle body. make sure its in specs

Mark1260

Alright so I have had some free time and check some more things. I replaced the fuel filter, no difference. However, it is extremely hard to start now. Not sure if related, but it started afterwards lol. I am talking ridiculously hard to start. Takes about 5 minutes when it is cold. So hard that my starter is starting to feel it. 3 times it has seized up on my now. So I am going to change the cold start injector when I get a chance.

Also, I came across the FSM and tested the AFM, horribly out of specs lol. It is basically just one big open circuit. Therefore, the next step I am going to take is find a new one.

ChzSoda

Made a huge leap forward with my 3VZE.
The throttle body had just enough build up in it that the valve wouldn't quite close all the way. That meant that the idle screw was adjusted wrong to compensate, and the TPS was misaligned due to the throttle being 1-2mm open when it was "closed".
That pushed a code 51, which meant the ECU wouldn't enter diagnostic mode.
That meant that the jumper neccessary to set the ignition timing wasn't actually jumper'ing, so timing adjustments were completely random.
After cleaning the TB very thoroughly I was able to clear the codes by removing the EFI fuse for ~45 seconds.
This let the engine enter diagnostic mode, and for the first time in a year I got to see what my timing was actually set at. Turns out this entire time the distributor was in position for 5* retarded instead of the prescribed 10* advanced.
The ECU had been doing its best to make up the difference with the electronic advance, and that is why the engine had such unpredictable power loss, poor mileage, etc.
The pedal response is now 200% what it was, and I'll bet money on my mileage going back up to ~20 from the 14 I've been getting.
Hopefully this is helpful to some of you.

SunBum

I also have these same EXACT problems. Had the compression test done, and they told me that I would be better off to just replace the engine for close to $5k. I laughed and paid the $150 bill for pretty much telling me what I already know.