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** what is involved in removing the water outlet with the ball and bearing assembly?
1st attempt at replacing water pump. During disassembly found the problem possibly with the fan assembly however now faced with decision whether to remove a few bolts and replace the water pump; having purchased a kit that includes the timing belt, water pump, tension pulley, and ** water outlet with ball and bearing component.
Dilemma, down to removing the water pump and decided to first remove the water outlet with the ball and bearing. Appeared by removing 4 bolts I would be able to remove the portion of the sheet metal to gain access to the bolts to remove the water outlet but there is what appears to be a wire harness with decal 62 that is preventing the section of the sheet metal to be removed. It seems I am so close but not sure if I should keep the new water outlet with ball and bearing as spare and leave well enough alone? I would like to replace if not too involved?
What you're calling the "water outlet with ball and bearing component" I think is the No. 2 Idler Pulley. http://web.archive.org/web/201208130...68cylinder.pdf The FSM procedure for replacing the timing belt http://web.archive.org/web/201204051...67timingbe.pdf (this is a '93 manual, you have the spring tensioner rather than the hydraulic tensioner, but that doesn't matter here) doesn't call for replacing the No. 2 Idler. So the manual will not directly answer your question.
Unfortunately, I don't have photos from my replacement of the No.2 idler, but I believe I had the plenum off. I don't think there is enough room to reach the bolts holding the Idler if the plenum is in place.
What your asking about (I think) is the upper harness. If your remove the hold-downs, there should be enough slack in the upper harness to move it out of the way without disconnecting everything.
If I recall correctly, removing the #2 idler pulley requires removing the lower intake manifold to get the the correct bolts. Its not a quick and easy job, you have to remove the upper manifold and all of its vacuum and coolant lines, and the fuel rails, and the lower manifold.
Edit: after looking at some old pictures, it might just be the upper manifold, and possibly a fuel crossover line you need to remove. Either way, not a quick job
I thank you, sounds like replacing the water outlet is too labor intensive so I have decided to clean the original, replace the water pump then reassemble the cooling system component so I can get the vehicle back on the road.
Thank you, appreciate the information I found it very helpful!!!.
What you're calling the "water outlet with ball and bearing component" I think is the No. 2 Idler Pulley. http://web.archive.org/web/201208130...68cylinder.pdf The FSM procedure for replacing the timing belt http://web.archive.org/web/201204051...67timingbe.pdf (this is a '93 manual, you have the spring tensioner rather than the hydraulic tensioner, but that doesn't matter here) doesn't call for replacing the No. 2 Idler. So the manual will not directly answer your question.
Unfortunately, I don't have photos from my replacement of the No.2 idler, but I believe I had the plenum off. I don't think there is enough room to reach the bolts holding the Idler if the plenum is in place.
What your asking about (I think) is the upper harness. If your remove the hold-downs, there should be enough slack in the upper harness to move it out of the way without disconnecting everything.
Sorry I can't be of more help.
I kiinda stumbled thru removing components to get to the water pump, now that I have decided not to deal with the item mentioned I can replace the water pump then proceed to reassemble the cooling system and get the vehicle on the road.
DO turn the No. 2 idler by hand. You should feel "nothing." If you can feel a little bit of grinding or metal rolling on metal, that bearing may be nearing end-of-life. At that point, I'd bite the bullet and go through with the job of replacing it. If it freezes completely, you'll break the timing belt and be stranded.
DO turn the No. 2 idler by hand. You should feel "nothing." If you can feel a little bit of grinding or metal rolling on metal, that bearing may be nearing end-of-life. At that point, I'd bite the bullet and go through with the job of replacing it. If it freezes completely, you'll break the timing belt and be stranded.
Thank you for the suggestion, I went and checked the old #2 idler and it rotates/spins freely and I do not detect any drag?
Not that many miles on the vehicle since shop rebuilt 3 years ago. Initially, an occasional clanking of metal so I immediately decided to investigate and at the time I thought it was the water pump however when I got to the fan pulley bracket I discovered it was frozen, Currently at the point where the water pump is exposed and it should not be a major task to replace although if I subsequently developed a leak I will be kicking my backside. Seems now faced with same situation, I have a quality #2 idler but it appears the old idler is okay not sure I care to get into removing engine components unless absolutely necessary, not that confident?
To Confirm: Decided to replace a couple components for reassembly which arrived today so I was psyched and proceeded to remove the water pump using the 3/8" air ratchet and then realized the water pump bolts come in a couple sizes, at this point stopped to reflect on how to proceed w/out making 'bonehead' mistakes.It appears the 2 short threaded bolts can only go in 2 threaded openings both of which are on the top and to the passenger side of the top center bolt with the arm the belt tension spring attaches to??
I have a digital torque wrench, going to have to go with it however i do not trust the ( In lb) calibration so likely replace wrench, any suggestions of brand would be appreciated.
The FSM gives the torque specs for the two different size of bolts. http://web.archive.org/web/201411140...09waterpum.pdf They don't differ by much (18 v. 20 N-M), but I admire anyone who at least tries to get them right.
I assume your current electronic torque wrench is a 1/2" drive, which is not going to be too helpful for only 18 N-M. I've been very happy with all three Harbor Freight torque wrenches I use; the 1/4" drive covers 2.3 to 22 N-M, which is right in your sweet-spot. The other place I use my 1/4" drive torque wrench is on the valve-cover bolts; they call for only 5.4 N-M, and it's easy to strip the threads out of the aluminum heads if you're ham-fisted.
Any torque wrench (SnapOn or HF, digital or micrometer or beam-type) is only as good as its calibration. I've checked the calibration on my older wrenches with a luggage scale. Not perfect (how do I know my luggage scale is calibrated?), but good enough for me.
I have a digital torque wrench kept it in plastic box and stored in cold but dry environment, convenient in that it can be programed for 5 settings. Couple days ago snapped the head off one of the bolts securing the sheet metal behind the water pump, cam pulleys, etc., this is when I stopped to reflect on how to proceed w/out making mistakes. No longer trust the torque wrench so purchase both inch and ft # torque wrenches, now awaiting tools to complete the project.
Out of the 7 bolts there are 5 with the longer threads, and 2 with the short threads and appears to me the there are only 2 threaded openings the short bolts will fit into? If I understand to torque rec's there are 4 bolts that require 14 ft. #'s and the remainder required 13 ft #'s; O yea, the accuracy of a 1 ft. # difference?
Posting PDF from instruction sheet that came with the pump, belt, tension adjuster pulley, and the #2 idler pulley, may come handy in reassembling, unfortunately unable to rotate PDF attachment?
Posting PDF from instruction sheet that came with the pump, belt, tension adjuster pulley, and the #2 idler pulley, may come handy in reassembling, unfortunately unable to rotate PDF attachment?
I don't know what your using to view the PDF, but in Adobe Acrobat, when you open the PDF there is a menu, upper left corner. Under VIEW, the first choice is Rotate. When you click it, it gives you two choices, Clockwise and Counterclockwise. Use the one you need to get it oriented the way you want it.
Not computer literate, since installing Win 10 (regret) I find there are features I do not have a clue how the operating systems functions. I used my scanner in the PDF mode, when I saved and posted the file it ends up in Win Microsoft Edge?
As a further note, the kit I ordered was for a 1990 T4r 3VZ and I intend to compare the values on the info sheet to ensure for the correct application.
01-06-2021, 03:43 PM
