Valve seals/timing chain 86' 22re
#21
The 261 Crawler Cam and metal backed timing guide kit are in the Mail. The Head is in good shape. No machining necessary and the guides are good. Pulled the old seals and tonight I'm lapping the valve seats. Should be sweet when complete.
I'm thinking about changing out the alternator as well, it's pretty gummed up with crap.
Cheers,
Canuckle Head Joe
I'm thinking about changing out the alternator as well, it's pretty gummed up with crap.
Cheers,
Canuckle Head Joe
#22
Did you change the valve adjusting screws when you put your new Cam in?? Mine have the classic hour glass pattern wear but doesn't seem excessive.
Got new nuts for the exhaust manifold and head as well. Not sure if I needed new head bolts, I'm getting mixed reviews on that one. Some yes some no. They were cheap enough anyways so I'll run a bottoming tap into the block to clean up those threads and Bobs your uncle.
Cheers,
Canuckle Head Joe
Got new nuts for the exhaust manifold and head as well. Not sure if I needed new head bolts, I'm getting mixed reviews on that one. Some yes some no. They were cheap enough anyways so I'll run a bottoming tap into the block to clean up those threads and Bobs your uncle.
Cheers,
Canuckle Head Joe
Last edited by Newf wit a Toy; 10-13-2011 at 06:34 PM.
#23
So I got the truck back up and running. Will it hurt the engine to drive with the timing off?? I still have to get a timing gun tomorrow from work and set the timing. It runs ok but doesn't seem to have the power it did before I dropped the new 261C cam in. Does that automatically mean that I screwed up on the cam & chain set up. I was sure that I had No.1 Cy @ TDC when I hooked everything up. and the distributor rotor almost lined up perfect with the mark I put on the casing. Maybe out by 1/8". I sure hope the timing being out would account for the loss of power. When I put the pedal to the metal I get nothing. Just a slow increase in speed. Any advice at this point would be greatly appreciated and welcomed.
Frustrated,
Joe
Frustrated,
Joe
#24
Registered User
First, get your timing set correctly. Then drive it. Don't even know why you would attempt it any other way... Don't drive your truck until you do that. bad idea. Unless you are REAL good at tuning by ear.
I don't care what anyone says. It is a bad idea and well worth the hours of waiting to drive it. Your timing being off 1/8" will make it run like crap. The slightest turn of that thing can set you off by 10*
Did you get new adjuster screws? Makes a huge difference. Cost 20$ If not... I would order some and install them when ya get em and re-adjust the valves.
I don't care what anyone says. It is a bad idea and well worth the hours of waiting to drive it. Your timing being off 1/8" will make it run like crap. The slightest turn of that thing can set you off by 10*
Did you get new adjuster screws? Makes a huge difference. Cost 20$ If not... I would order some and install them when ya get em and re-adjust the valves.
Last edited by 4x4climber; 10-23-2011 at 10:30 PM.
#25
First, get your timing set correctly. Then drive it. Don't even know why you would attempt it any other way... Don't drive your truck until you do that. bad idea. Unless you are REAL good at tuning by ear.
I don't care what anyone says. It is a bad idea and well worth the hours of waiting to drive it. Your timing being off 1/8" will make it run like crap. The slightest turn of that thing can set you off by 10*
Did you get new adjuster screws? Makes a huge difference. Cost 20$ If not... I would order some and install them when ya get em and re-adjust the valves.
I don't care what anyone says. It is a bad idea and well worth the hours of waiting to drive it. Your timing being off 1/8" will make it run like crap. The slightest turn of that thing can set you off by 10*
Did you get new adjuster screws? Makes a huge difference. Cost 20$ If not... I would order some and install them when ya get em and re-adjust the valves.
Thanks,
Joe
Last edited by Newf wit a Toy; 10-23-2011 at 10:43 PM.
#26
Registered User
I would guess your timing being off degrees. Not a whole tooth. 22reperformance sells them for 22$ a set. probably less than 30$ total shipped to canada.
You may not NEED them... But your adjustment will be spot on and they will be quieter and your valve adjustment tolerances will hold true longer. When you get a chance... it is not pertinent.
BTW... you will want your engine to be at normal operating temps. Set idle to about 800-850...Then adjust your timing. Then set idle at about 800-850 rpms again if it is off WITH THE TIMING GUN cuz it is more accurate... Recheck and make sure your timing is still set at the right degree at the new idle.
I do it twice cuz sometimes it will be off or idle will go up and change it all... blah blah blah. it is worth the 30 seconds extra. lol
Rev up your engine to 2500, then 3500, then 4500 while keeping the timing gun on it and see what overall timing it reads. Just to see how your motor is running, knock sensor is responding/ecu adjusting.... make sure it is all good.
That is how I do mine. Works perfect every time. For me... LoL
You may not NEED them... But your adjustment will be spot on and they will be quieter and your valve adjustment tolerances will hold true longer. When you get a chance... it is not pertinent.
BTW... you will want your engine to be at normal operating temps. Set idle to about 800-850...Then adjust your timing. Then set idle at about 800-850 rpms again if it is off WITH THE TIMING GUN cuz it is more accurate... Recheck and make sure your timing is still set at the right degree at the new idle.
I do it twice cuz sometimes it will be off or idle will go up and change it all... blah blah blah. it is worth the 30 seconds extra. lol
Rev up your engine to 2500, then 3500, then 4500 while keeping the timing gun on it and see what overall timing it reads. Just to see how your motor is running, knock sensor is responding/ecu adjusting.... make sure it is all good.
That is how I do mine. Works perfect every time. For me... LoL
#27
First, get your timing set correctly. Then drive it. Don't even know why you would attempt it any other way... Don't drive your truck until you do that. bad idea. Unless you are REAL good at tuning by ear.
I don't care what anyone says. It is a bad idea and well worth the hours of waiting to drive it. Your timing being off 1/8" will make it run like crap. The slightest turn of that thing can set you off by 10*
Did you get new adjuster screws? Makes a huge difference. Cost 20$ If not... I would order some and install them when ya get em and re-adjust the valves.
I don't care what anyone says. It is a bad idea and well worth the hours of waiting to drive it. Your timing being off 1/8" will make it run like crap. The slightest turn of that thing can set you off by 10*
Did you get new adjuster screws? Makes a huge difference. Cost 20$ If not... I would order some and install them when ya get em and re-adjust the valves.
I am still considering getting those adjusting screws as long as I don't have to pay $72 bucks for them(In Canada). Thats retarded!!
Looking for a new project so I started a rear bumper today! 2'' pipe, 90 deg elbows outside, 45's into the lic plate centered. double layering the pipe with a one inch gap in between. should be sweet, and a walk in the park compared to the head rebuild/timing chn replacement.
Tanks-alot!
Canuckle Head Joe
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