Valve cover crack. Replace?
#1
Valve cover crack. Replace?
Saw something leaking by clutch slave cylinder thought great I just got it replacedast year and now something's wrong. Took it to mechanic and he said clutch is fine just need to spend about 400 and I see here your valve cover is cracked. Can someone explain this to me. And what other possible thing can I see go wrong when this crack?
Original engine 119 thousand miles. No HG done yet. If this is going to cost over a grand and something is worse just do a swap? I'm 18 saving money here and I'm really not wanna to dig into a money pit with the 3.0
Original engine 119 thousand miles. No HG done yet. If this is going to cost over a grand and something is worse just do a swap? I'm 18 saving money here and I'm really not wanna to dig into a money pit with the 3.0
#2
Registered User
well the cheap fix is to spend a day at a junkyard and get some new to you valve covers, meanwhile you will be learning how to get to them to change them. the driver side is easy, the passenger side will take some work, it will mean taking off the upper intake, egr/pair stuff and carefully labeling the vacuum hoses at a minimum. I suggest you take pictures and carefully label everything. and read this
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...68cylinder.pdf
this is instructions on how to remove the heads. just use what you need to do the covers
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...68cylinder.pdf
this is instructions on how to remove the heads. just use what you need to do the covers
#3
It'll cost way more than a grand to do a swap i just spent 2500 for a full rebuild on a 3.0 with new clutch, pistons, and heads. If you just keep the engine cool why spend 3000 plus on a 3.4. I sold my 93 and then re-bought one three weeks ago with 285k and a blown hg but the car was immaculate.
Thats my 2 cents.
#4
Registered User
Make sure you replace the valve cover gaskets when you replace. You'll also need the FIPG material from a Toyota dealer. If you're going to replace them, do it right or you'll have oil leaking out everywhere.
If you want a quick and dirty way to replace it, just take off the hoses of the throttle body, unbolt the air chamber (the large metal piece with the logo) and just carefully flip it on the passenger's side upside down. You'll have to remove the EGR though (and replace the gaskets, cheap though). That should be enough to get to the valve covers. Or, remove all the billions of vacuum lines and just take the whole thing off. Be sure to put the back on right though! Pictures help tons.
But if you're going that deep, why not just do other maintenance? You can replace the PCV valve on the passenger side valve cover and the gasket, have your injectors professionally cleaned, even do a valve adjustment (recommended by Toyota every 90k miles). The valve adjustment is hard though, don't do it unless you have a ton of patience.
All that will run you $100 for gaskets and materials, and the injector cleaning runs about $150-180. Sure beats having a shop doing a terrible job and messing things up, AND you'll learn infinitely more about your engine.
If you want a quick and dirty way to replace it, just take off the hoses of the throttle body, unbolt the air chamber (the large metal piece with the logo) and just carefully flip it on the passenger's side upside down. You'll have to remove the EGR though (and replace the gaskets, cheap though). That should be enough to get to the valve covers. Or, remove all the billions of vacuum lines and just take the whole thing off. Be sure to put the back on right though! Pictures help tons.
But if you're going that deep, why not just do other maintenance? You can replace the PCV valve on the passenger side valve cover and the gasket, have your injectors professionally cleaned, even do a valve adjustment (recommended by Toyota every 90k miles). The valve adjustment is hard though, don't do it unless you have a ton of patience.
All that will run you $100 for gaskets and materials, and the injector cleaning runs about $150-180. Sure beats having a shop doing a terrible job and messing things up, AND you'll learn infinitely more about your engine.
#5
The swap would cost around 2500 here if I do the work myself including headers and all random things but. Shop is doing for like 375 I'm looking around my engine I see oil. Caked in my cold air intake. My engine runs rough. It's sounds as if my engine needs to kick in gear at times so it'll sputter then it'll act done after. In does it periodically throughout driving. Does that have to do with valve gaskets?
EDIT:
I'm doing the job myself would love to learn but as I don't have another vehicle at the moment. It would be hard
EDIT:
I'm doing the job myself would love to learn but as I don't have another vehicle at the moment. It would be hard
Last edited by Edionne13; 07-09-2013 at 05:57 PM.
#7
There is a list of recalls on here somewhere, as for valve covers leaking most cars ive bought used leaked through there i think you have something else going on, i started my build because it ran really rough and upon inspection it was a blown hg. Do some more research before you go pay for an engine, as for it only costing 2500 have you considered the headache of the wiring harness needing to be done? This would take me a few hours probably more im sure and i wire stereo systems and house electrical on the side.
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