upgrade HP - original drivetrain
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upgrade HP - original drivetrain
Hi.
Being famous for their Toyota Production System or LEAN I guess Toyota utilized each given drivetrain in as many different car configurations as possible I suppose. Torsion works all the way through the drivechain from the engine to the tyres. Things must not brake at the drag strip. And things must not wear out to much in daily driver conditions.
How much is a drivechain overbuilt for the given application? Toyota is in the business of designing and building daily drivers. So it makes sense to take a look at the decisions Toyota made for different types of drivechains supporting different types of engines.
Presently I am looking at a 1991 Taro 4x4 diesel for sale with 500+K on the odometer. Pictures show absolutely no rust as far as can see. Underside seems to be clean, no dents. Engine is 2L right? (see picture engine bay). Taro is somewhere in the range N80 thru N110, I think it has a standard size bed.
If I would get this car and at some point down the road I decide that the engine needs replacement then:
1) how much extra power can this (assumingly) original drivetrain take from a daily driver point of view?
2) does the differential in the rear axle wear out more or less in the same pace as the transmission?
3) what type of younger engines bolt up to the L2-transmission?
4) would a gasoline engine bolt up to the L2-transmission?
5) worst case senario I could just fit the body on a younger chassis.
I'm a metal worker and pretty handy for a non-mechanic (former goldsmith, former toolmaker, now industrial welder). As for driving style I sort of drive like your grandpa. I never put the pedal to the metal.
Thanks for the insights.
Being famous for their Toyota Production System or LEAN I guess Toyota utilized each given drivetrain in as many different car configurations as possible I suppose. Torsion works all the way through the drivechain from the engine to the tyres. Things must not brake at the drag strip. And things must not wear out to much in daily driver conditions.
How much is a drivechain overbuilt for the given application? Toyota is in the business of designing and building daily drivers. So it makes sense to take a look at the decisions Toyota made for different types of drivechains supporting different types of engines.
Presently I am looking at a 1991 Taro 4x4 diesel for sale with 500+K on the odometer. Pictures show absolutely no rust as far as can see. Underside seems to be clean, no dents. Engine is 2L right? (see picture engine bay). Taro is somewhere in the range N80 thru N110, I think it has a standard size bed.
If I would get this car and at some point down the road I decide that the engine needs replacement then:
1) how much extra power can this (assumingly) original drivetrain take from a daily driver point of view?
2) does the differential in the rear axle wear out more or less in the same pace as the transmission?
3) what type of younger engines bolt up to the L2-transmission?
4) would a gasoline engine bolt up to the L2-transmission?
5) worst case senario I could just fit the body on a younger chassis.
I'm a metal worker and pretty handy for a non-mechanic (former goldsmith, former toolmaker, now industrial welder). As for driving style I sort of drive like your grandpa. I never put the pedal to the metal.
Thanks for the insights.
Last edited by maurits; 12-08-2019 at 12:23 PM.
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