I honestly don't know which component has gone bad and plan on testing them to the best that I can. I know the ignition module can be tested if it goes out completely like mine did. I was driving down the road (in my old truck before the accident) and it was like someone turned my ignition off. Dead engine, with no starting it again. I tested module and it tested bad, so I bought a local module from Merels (I think it was) for like $200. Then I found some new online for like $80.

I have no clue how to go about testing the coil. I'll have to go my service manual.

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http://m.wikihow.com/Test-an-Ignition-Coil

 

You mean I wasn't supposed to put the plug wire in my mouth and stand barefoot on wet concrete and have a friend "crank" the engine? WOO-BOY!!! That'll get your attention!!! LOL

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I ran my Ohm Meter over the coil and not sure about the findings... The Primary Coil was over the spec by .1 or .2 ohms Spec was like .4 - .5 and reading was .6 - .7ohms. Secondary coil was supposed to be 8.5 - 11.5, reading was 9.74 In spec...
Insulation resistance is suppose to read infinity and it did. So is this coil still considered good or bad? After all it was only out of spec by .1 or 2 ohms...

I have not test the ignition unit yet...

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Hmmm...

Okay, after doing some reading n the "new fuels' used in "older" vehicles, I wonder if I can really use OEM spark pugs in my truck since these new fuels seem to need a hotter spark to ignite the fuel right.

And relating to an old thread I have I wonder if some the problem giving me my poor gas mileage is from alky fuels in an old leaded fuel engine and the seals and gaskets ruined by age and alky fuels...

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115.../#post52300831

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Your coil is fine. Unless you have a high-end DMM that can do 4-wire (Kelvin) resistance measurements, you can't get better accuracy than about .5 ohms. Your lead and contact resistance will account for the extra .1-.2 ohms in your primary coil measurement.

 

Thanks, I just figured it was the cheap meter being .1 - .2 ohms out...

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I know this thread has been long dormant, but I have found something I believe will impact my gas mileage. While still chasing a spongy brake pedal and bad brakes I finally bought new (rebuilt) calipers and pads. Calipers were garbage covered in rust with shredded seals. Look at thread here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...x4-gem-301672/
Truck rolls really nice now AND REALLY STOPS MUCH BETTER NOW TOO! Hahaha I think the bad calipers were causing the brake pads to rub, because some days it would roll really good and other days not so much... I did swap out the tranny with a new (Wrecking yard one) and got a MPG or two more

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After messing with this truck for years now. I have found many problems that after repairing all of them has improved my trucks performance. I have replaced my accelerator diaphragm, the power valve and all easily available diaphragms on the carburetor. I've replace the vacuum pod for the vacuum advance on my distributor, and vacuum lines, I also had to replace a new fuel pump that was faulty out of the box and failing giving me all sorts of problems... I worked fine when it was cold, but once it got warm forget it, it starved the engine. The truck is running much stronger, gas mileage is only about 18 MPG around town, which I guess isn't too bad for the truck.

The clarity of hind site, what can I say,

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You can shift the power band down a bit by using 2 1/4".
It all makes pretty much only a "tiny" difference.

Just rock it!