Turbo project, COMPLETED!!!
12-20-2010 | 02:55 AM
#1
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From: Australia
Turbo project, COMPLETED!!!
Hey guys, i have finally finished my turbo project, i have turbo'ed my 1993 hilux sr5 2,8 diesel with a ct20 turbo.
it was a long process involving lost and lost of research!! and alot of time, and a fair bit of cash, but all in all i have managed to save over $2000 compaired to buying a kit. and its all worth it!
i used a ct20 turbo and the manifold off a hilux surf 2.4 turbo, they are a perfect match as toyota uses the ct20 on all surfs, the turbo blows oil at what i assume is a bad rate but ive given up careing for now, its new it will live.
so if anybody is setting off on the same mission and would like some help then feel free to ask, from oil feeds, to air lines i will try and help.
i also have many pictures if they are needed.
a little heads up, save some money for the air ducting ITS EXPENSIVE!!
BIG THANKS TO YOTATECH FOR HEAPS OF GREAT INFO THANKS GUYS!
now some pictures of the final product:
BEFORE:
AFTER: (NOW)
This small blue 90 degree bend was $75
it was a long process involving lost and lost of research!! and alot of time, and a fair bit of cash, but all in all i have managed to save over $2000 compaired to buying a kit. and its all worth it!
i used a ct20 turbo and the manifold off a hilux surf 2.4 turbo, they are a perfect match as toyota uses the ct20 on all surfs, the turbo blows oil at what i assume is a bad rate but ive given up careing for now, its new it will live.
so if anybody is setting off on the same mission and would like some help then feel free to ask, from oil feeds, to air lines i will try and help.
i also have many pictures if they are needed.
a little heads up, save some money for the air ducting ITS EXPENSIVE!!
BIG THANKS TO YOTATECH FOR HEAPS OF GREAT INFO THANKS GUYS!
now some pictures of the final product:
BEFORE:
AFTER: (NOW)
This small blue 90 degree bend was $75
12-20-2010 | 03:19 AM
#3
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From: Australia
I'm so happy how it turned out !
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12-20-2010 | 06:44 PM
#8
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From: Australia
. It a whole new car again to me! I love it all Over again
12-20-2010 | 07:15 PM
#10
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From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
how much boost will those things hold with factory pistons?
how loud did the snorkel get with all that extra air going in?
looks good BTW.
how loud did the snorkel get with all that extra air going in?
looks good BTW.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 12-20-2010 at 07:16 PM.
12-20-2010 | 11:01 PM
#11
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From: Australia
I'm notquite sure, but everybody who's done this mod says anything under about 12 psi (1bar) will not harm the engine in any way, and amazing the car is actually quieter with the turbo on, at idle and reving !! Werid :/
12-20-2010 | 11:48 PM
#13
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From: Australia
. And yeah hopefully with the new parts it should be all good
12-21-2010 | 11:20 PM
#14
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From: Australia
Hey guys, my turbo boosts 0.5 bar. But my car doesn't feel THAT much fast/powerful. Do I need to advance the timing and increase fuel pump ? Would this help ?
All the other that have turbo'd their trucks say it's like a new machine but mines the same, they say that theirs flys like never before, mine is only very very slightly faster. What gives!?
All the other that have turbo'd their trucks say it's like a new machine but mines the same, they say that theirs flys like never before, mine is only very very slightly faster. What gives!?
12-21-2010 | 11:43 PM
#16
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From: Australia
Hmm I can't really afford a new exhaust at the mo. But more fuel is easy, I just adjust the pump (tried it earlier and it made it much slower!)
12-23-2010 | 03:28 AM
#18
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From: the Netherlands
The only correct way to adjust the pump for more fuel is to remove the weld-on sealcollar on the adjuster bolt.
If you adjusted the bolt counter-clockwise, without taking it out first, break the seal and remove the collar (it's only tack welded), you actually gave it less fuel
The collar prevents the bolt from being turned in further (clock-wise). This gives it more fuel. And tells the dealer you tampered with the engine for more power and the warrantee does not apply anymore on the engine....
I suggest one half turn per testrun. If you see a constant black smoke coming out the tail pipe you gave it too much fuel and you need to go back a notch.
As you add more fuel you should see the boost pressure go up slightly.
As soon as it's stable and doesn't climp anymore you know the wastegate is doing it's job.
Now you can add M8 washers underneath the wastegate. You probably need 1 or 2 per mounting bolt to reach 0.7 bar.
I wouldn't go much higher than that, the L heads are rather sensitive if you know what I mean. I've seen lot's of em crack....
If you adjusted the bolt counter-clockwise, without taking it out first, break the seal and remove the collar (it's only tack welded), you actually gave it less fuel
The collar prevents the bolt from being turned in further (clock-wise). This gives it more fuel. And tells the dealer you tampered with the engine for more power and the warrantee does not apply anymore on the engine....
I suggest one half turn per testrun. If you see a constant black smoke coming out the tail pipe you gave it too much fuel and you need to go back a notch.
As you add more fuel you should see the boost pressure go up slightly.
As soon as it's stable and doesn't climp anymore you know the wastegate is doing it's job.
Now you can add M8 washers underneath the wastegate. You probably need 1 or 2 per mounting bolt to reach 0.7 bar.
I wouldn't go much higher than that, the L heads are rather sensitive if you know what I mean. I've seen lot's of em crack....
12-23-2010 | 11:55 AM
#19
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From: Australia
The only correct way to adjust the pump for more fuel is to remove the weld-on sealcollar on the adjuster bolt.
If you adjusted the bolt counter-clockwise, without taking it out first, break the seal and remove the collar (it's only tack welded), you actually gave it less fuel
The collar prevents the bolt from being turned in further (clock-wise). This gives it more fuel. And tells the dealer you tampered with the engine for more power and the warrantee does not apply anymore on the engine....
I suggest one half turn per testrun. If you see a constant black smoke coming out the tail pipe you gave it too much fuel and you need to go back a notch.
As you add more fuel you should see the boost pressure go up slightly.
As soon as it's stable and doesn't climp anymore you know the wastegate is doing it's job.
Now you can add M8 washers underneath the wastegate. You probably need 1 or 2 per mounting bolt to reach 0.7 bar.
I wouldn't go much higher than that, the L heads are rather sensitive if you know what I mean. I've seen lot's of em crack....
If you adjusted the bolt counter-clockwise, without taking it out first, break the seal and remove the collar (it's only tack welded), you actually gave it less fuel
The collar prevents the bolt from being turned in further (clock-wise). This gives it more fuel. And tells the dealer you tampered with the engine for more power and the warrantee does not apply anymore on the engine....
I suggest one half turn per testrun. If you see a constant black smoke coming out the tail pipe you gave it too much fuel and you need to go back a notch.
As you add more fuel you should see the boost pressure go up slightly.
As soon as it's stable and doesn't climp anymore you know the wastegate is doing it's job.
Now you can add M8 washers underneath the wastegate. You probably need 1 or 2 per mounting bolt to reach 0.7 bar.
I wouldn't go much higher than that, the L heads are rather sensitive if you know what I mean. I've seen lot's of em crack....
That would explain why when I turned the bolt anti clockwise it had no power at all
Thanks heaps for the info, I would never had figured it out if I kept turning the screw the wrong darn way
And yeah I think 0.7 will be my max! And I always let the engine/turbo cool a bit before I shut the engine off, I'm still waiting on my pyrometer from us to arrive but I guess it sill in January now, I orders it start of november. !
Thanks again !
