Truck won't start.. VAFM?
#21
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Degrees farenheit (F) are at the bottom in parentheses. The left hand of the chart is in thousands of ohms. So at 68 degrees the sensor should read close to 2000 ohms. It's not important to be that precise. As the temp goes up, the ohms go down. If you go out and check it when it's cold, it should be somewhere between 1000 and 4000 ohms, depending your outside temperature. If it's bad, I would think you wouldn't even get the ohmmeter to give a reading, as it would be shorted out. That's why the ECM is throwing a code, because it can't get a reading either. I hope it's that easy for you.
Last edited by DJ99; 01-22-2010 at 12:44 PM.
#24
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I checked the vafm with the ohmmeter and it's good. I went to check the ect and it wasn't connected well. I put it on better and the truck started w/the vafm connected, but it only ran for 2 seconds. I have no idea what that means. The ect also checked out fine with the ohmmeter. Also, the sensor to the passenger side of the ect seemed to be a little loose. Here's a picture I found that shows the sensors(ect far left, looseish one far right):
Here's a video, the first sensor I tap is the ect and the second is the loose-ish one:
http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...=VIDEO_029.flv
Here's a video, the first sensor I tap is the ect and the second is the loose-ish one:
http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...=VIDEO_029.flv
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Video of the truck starting with the ECT in good and the VAFM plugged in(and the battery's dying):
http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...=VIDEO_031.flv
http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...=VIDEO_031.flv
#29
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When I went to pull codes again yesterday all I got was the light constantly flashing with no pattern or pauses. I'll try again today after reseting. Should I replace the ECT? It checked out with the ohmmeter, but if you think it'd be good to replace it then I can do that. I'm just getting tired of throwing parts at it and I'm running out of money
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