Truck starts but quits running in 2 seconds.
#21
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My '88 did that when I first bought it, but I got code 32, instead of 12 like the OP said. All I did was unplug the AFM plug, blow on it and plug it back in. It fired right up. I even bought a $15 multimeter to check everything
#23
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well, the AFM uses the moving air going into the engine to keep it supplied with fuel
it's obviously got fire if it runs for a second
aparently, fuel and air are presesnt as well (for a limited time obviously), because as you claimed, an engine just wont run without them; since it does fire up for a couple seconds, then I guess they're there
but the "2 second run" sounds typical of a malfuctioning or disconnected AFM
go unplug yours, I bet it'll do the exact same thing as what he describes
it's obviously got fire if it runs for a second
aparently, fuel and air are presesnt as well (for a limited time obviously), because as you claimed, an engine just wont run without them; since it does fire up for a couple seconds, then I guess they're there
but the "2 second run" sounds typical of a malfuctioning or disconnected AFM
go unplug yours, I bet it'll do the exact same thing as what he describes
So pardon me didn't realise your depth of knowledge on the 22re.
#25
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Interesting jest on your part. I bet if you went out to your rig and disconnected the groung attach to the intake manifold it would do the same thing. So if only the cold start injector fires it runs for 2 sec.
So pardon me didn't realise your depth of knowledge on the 22re.
So pardon me didn't realise your depth of knowledge on the 22re.
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I wasn't supporting it, i was just responding to your post . It can't be 100% ruled out though, you never know! The OP DID say he got code 12 wheres I got code 32, and that he already checked the first few things. Looks like he needs to maybe swap in a different ECU.
#27
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I say use a diagnostic aproach to solving the problem. Every one is possible right and possible wrong. Shoot all the sensors, injectors, ECU could be fine, for all we know a furry little rat/squirrel/mouse crawled into the truck and decided to teeth on a wire. Or that some someplace in the wiring harness has been rubbing on a sharp edge till it shorted.
But its not my truck so the point is really rather mute.
But its not my truck so the point is really rather mute.
#28
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Ohmed out the AFM last night!
I used the multimeter I recently purchased to ohm out the Air Flow meter last night one more time before I order a new one tomorrow. The AFM ohmed out good when I brought it into the house. I had disconnected it's wire harness and ohmed it out on the truck two days ago and I could not get any resistance readings at all, so I was sure it was bad. Now after this second check with correct readings, I am looking at the trouble code again which says Ne and G signals not present within 2 seconds to the ECU after starting. The Ne signal comes from the igniter but I can't find where the G signal comes from on the Haynes EFI schematic. Haynes doesn't show a G signal on the ECU.
Steven
Steven
Last edited by stevenbrick; 01-07-2009 at 02:19 AM. Reason: typo
#31
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The ignitor is getting a signal from the distributor though to fire the plugs, but the ECU isn't getting the signal to calculate RPM, ignition advance and injector firing.
Hate to be hard headed but... what's the CEL code again?
#32
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the Check Engine Code is 12
I replaced the igniter and it does the same thing, starts, trys to run then dies. I decided to ohm out the 12volt wire to the positive terminal on the coil. That wire with the key off ohms out 65 ohms. This wire I believe should be open to ground and not 65 ohms. I took the resistance reading with the negative terminal on my battery disconnected. I took a voltage reading for this wire with the key on and there is 11.54 volts there. The voltage at the battery is right at 12 volts. I think the problem is in the wire from the ignition switch to the positive side of the coil. I will try to run a new wire and see if that fixes the problem.
#33
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Did you disconnect the coil from the igniter when you tested it? If not, you'll get parallel resistance through the igniter.
You should disconnect the igniter and test resistance between the primary terminals (+ and -) should be between 0.5 and 0.7 ohms, and between the + and secondary terminal should be between 11.4K and 15.6K ohms. Additionally, there should be no continuity between the terminals and body of the coil.
You should disconnect the igniter and test resistance between the primary terminals (+ and -) should be between 0.5 and 0.7 ohms, and between the + and secondary terminal should be between 11.4K and 15.6K ohms. Additionally, there should be no continuity between the terminals and body of the coil.
Last edited by abecedarian; 01-08-2009 at 12:32 PM.
#34
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Igniter wire and positive coile wire were not connected.
On my stock igniter the wires were connected from the igniter and the 12v wire from the switch, but the igniter I acquired from the salvage yard had the wires cut and seperated, so when I took my resistance readings the wires were disconnected fromt he coil and seperated. I purchased new 14 gauge wire today to replace the 12v wire from the switch to the coil. There is no continuity between ground and the wire from the igniter. There is only continuity to ground on the 12v wire from the switch. These wires are connected to the coil together when connected to the coil, so I think that is why the Ne signal is not reaching the ECU do to being grounded out to some degree (65 ohms). I will let you know what happens when I replace the 12v wire from the coil to the switch. Thank you.
Steven
Steven
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Replaced 12volt wire from ignition switch to coil.
Yesterday evening I replaced the 12volt wire from the ignition switch to the coil, and hooked everything back up to try to start the engine. Now the engine will not try to start at all, not even for 2 seconds. I think I must take it to the local Toyota shop at this point. I am out of clues at this point. 12 volts is present at the coil when the ignition switch is on.
Steven
Steven
#38
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check vac lines u might have a leak. check the one thats at the left rear of the valve cover that one tends to come off if u remove the valve cover at least it does on mine and i always forget about it. but dont take it to a dealer they like to screw u over
#39
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I am having this same problem basically. I have been working on a 'project' truck for awhile. Cab and EFI swap to a frame and 22r motor. Trying to get all the vac lines in the correct place, still missing a couple. Starts right up then dies a few seconds later. Please let me know if/when you find your issue, maybe I have the same.
edit
Oh yeah, Code 12 NO ”Ne” signal to ECM within 2 seconds after engine has been cranked. On a 88.
edit
Oh yeah, Code 12 NO ”Ne” signal to ECM within 2 seconds after engine has been cranked. On a 88.
#40
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Replaced ECU, problem fixed!
I took my truck to Taos Off-Road Performace which specializes in Toyotas. Within an hour they had found that a different ECU (ie. computer) made the truck run great. They are ordering me a remanufactured computer and I should have the truck back by next Tuesday if all goes as planned. Thanks to everyone here for all your suggestions. I really learned a lot thanks to this group.
Steven
Steven