toyturtle

So for some reason I seem unable to pull the error codes - something I have done numerous times in the past without problem...once I have the proper holes jumpered, have it in N, turn the key - just the check engine (and battery etc light) like normal. No flashing - either of a code or of the all clear.

A little background - the box where you jumper the two holes, by the fuse box in the engine compartment - lost it's lid a couple years ago (it was there when I did the tune up one day, next day after the emissions test it was gone). Thought it might be grimy so sprayed it out a few times with CRC contact cleaner, then repacked with di-electric grease). Used the same wire jumpers I've used for years...even made a new one.

While I doubt the underlying problem is causing an issue retrieving the codes...

The trucks been sitting 2+ months. My starter had been intermittent for a while (need a couple good "whaps" every now and again. One day it got me home and then...no more. Let it sit a while before I got around to replacing the starter, did the spark plugs too but NOT a full tune up or timing. It idled fine after that. Went to drive it one day and partway down the hill the "check engine" light came on and it was starving for power. Let it sit another week - just didn't have time and couldn't get the error codes to show. Tried driving again, same result (after fixing a failing battery terminal wire).

Truck idles fine. Tends to loose power/stare for fuel when you step on the gas. If you're REAL cmooth with either the gas pedal or the wire in the engine compartment you can actually rev it up high just fine - but when it drops down the idle is way off or stalls. Once after playing with it seemed to hear a hissing somewher =e under the EFI... but not seeing any cracked, missing, or soft hoses.


But really- for now, just wondering if anyone has any insight into why I'm not able to retrieve the error codes? From memory, as well as both the Haynes and Chilton manuals I am jumpering the right spots.

EDIT TO ADD: Yes, the check engine light has come on while driving. And I haven't disconnected the battery or any of the fusing that would reset the codes. And I'm pretty sure when jumpered it *should* give an all clear code if no codes are stored (4?6? would need to look it up)

EDIT AGAIN TO ADD: I'm leaning towards a bat TPS. Testing the VTA/E2 and the IDL/E2 w .024 feeler both check out. But the IDL/E2 w/ .035 feeler is reading ~1.15 (OHM meter set on 20K) . From what I'm reading it should be open/infinite? Also tested this with the audible feature that sounds a tone on an open circuit - no sound (and yes- I tested meter on a known open circuit to confirm sound was working).

scope103

Yes, you've broken a wire somewhere. Check E1 (ground) first; that will be easy. Test light (or multimeter) from battery+ to E1 should read battery voltage. TE1 will be a little harder; you'll have to check for continuity back to the ECM. But visual inspection is likely to turn it up.

toyturtle

Thanks for the feedback. I had NO idea how to test those sockets or where to even start...

For the record... 20th+ attempt at jumpering it I finally got the codes to display - a 42 (TPS) and 52 (no signal Knock Sensor). I disconnected the battery to clear the codes because I had run it with the TPS disconnected, and then had issues retrieving the codes again. Several attemts and I got the code- just 52 this time.

So, I'm guessing either the sockets are just worn and tired and/or bad ground.

2ToyGuy

You've got several ground points in the engine compartment. All are critical. 2 on the battery negative, one to the body, usually just forward of the battery, behind the headlight. The other goes directly down to the block, connected to the AC compressor mount, or to the block where the AC compressor WOULD mount, if you had one. That one gets dirty/oily/corroded pretty badly, pretty quickly.
Next is the head to body ground. A relatively short wire, connected to the head at one of the lifting hook bolts. It goes to the firewall behind the head. This is the sparkplug ground point, so it's vital.
Last is a wire from the alternator plug up to the power steering pump mount.

Check them ALL frequently. It doesn't take a lot of corrosion, which WILL build up on them, to totally destroy the ground's continuity. Don't ONLY check the battery terminals frequently for corrosion, but all the grounds as well. Another problem is the wires on the battery negative get acid down INSIDE the insulation, destroying the wire with no external indication. Important to check for. A quick end-to-end ohming of the wires will tell you the tale. 0 ohms, good. Anything higher, no good. Replace.
Check both ends of the wire. Look at the ring terminal on it, make sure no corrosion, and the crimp holding it on the wire. Ohm the wire end-to-end. Check the point the ring terminal connects to. Corrosion on, under, or around it? Clean it with a wire brush to get any dirt or corrosion off.

A good idea is to replace to factory battery terminals with "Marine Terminals". They have a screw post to connect to. You can crump a good ring terminal onto the wire, with some heatshrink to prevent intrusion of ickyness INTO the wire. Use meltwall, or FIT-300, type of heatshrink. It has a meltable inner liner, and when you heat it to shrink it down, the glue inner liner softens, melts, and flows into all the little nooks and crannies where the ring terminal is crimped on. Keeps battery acid mist, and everything else, out of the wire. Another benefit is that the battery is a LOT easier to disconnect. Loosen off the wing-nut on the screw post, off come the wires. Easy peasy. If the batteries of all your vehicles have this set up, you can swap a drained battery into the truck fst, so you get going again, while the drained battery is charging. Like for example, if you leave the lights on. Not that I've done that...often...

I also prefer the use of the Optima type battery. The "gel-cell" battery. It won't leak acid into the wires the way a regular battery will. I've heard that the Optima quality has dropped badly the last few years, but there are other versions of the gel-cell out there. IMHO, they're well worth the price, especially if you calculate dollars per miles driven between battery replacements.

Ok, I shut up now...
Pat☺

Jack91yota

I am checking my check engine light code. I am getting (one blink), then a pause then (7 blinks). Anybody familiar with this code. Thanks Jack

scope103

Code 71 is EGR system malfunction. http://web.archive.org/web/201410310...26diagnosi.pdf