trouble converting from an automatic to a stick.
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trouble converting from an automatic to a stick.
Help! We have a 93 Toyota 4x4. Husband has taken on the task of converting transmission from automatic to standard. He has the new one in, had to get the driveshaft lengthened. everything is in. Truck wont start. Does anyone have any sugestions. Computer? We have come so far now he is stuck. Please advise. Desperate for answers.
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that is what he is trying to do. He was going to try and get another computer thinking that that would solve the problem. How would he go about tricking it. We knew there was something that needed to be done.
#4
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all i know is you gotta trick it. you might be able to use a diff computer, for the exact same model you have, but it has to be out of a stick shift. i would think you just jump a side to a ground, but ive never done that swap... there are some guys here who have done that, gone from stick shift to auto.. etc.. they can help ya a lot more than i can.
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We'll give it a shot. He has been trying to find a way short of getting another computer. He had another truck that he got the computer off of a 4runner. that is where he had gotten the pedals. The computer wouldnt match up. So, we are going the other route till we can find a computer. Thank you for the help.
#6
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for it to start (if auto, and in park or N) there is a jumper inside the gear selector (usually on the tranny) this some wire is ran through the clutch interlock switch on the clutch master cyl inside the cab on the last cyl shaft to the clutch petal.
find the main harness in the dash that runs throught the dash from the engine bay. this factory made harness has both hookups for the auto and manual tranny. the electrical plug off of this harness that goes to the clutch interlock on the mast cyl has a plug in it "tricking" the system that the clutch is pushed in (so that the wire has continuity to the next plug inline to the starter relay). in the haynes manual on page 12-15 it is referred to as the clutch start switch. this next plug inline in the factory main harness to the starter relay is for the auto tranny switch (the one that makes the circuit complete when in N or P) he needs to find this auto tranny switch and jumper this wire so that the starter relay will allow the starter to turn the motor over.
hope this helps i know it is kind of confusing, just think of it as a wire with 2spots on the wire that are cut causing no signal from one side to the other. one cut in the wire is the M/T switch on the clutch (so when pushed in it fixes the cut in the wire) the second cut in the wire is the auto tranny switch (when in N or P it fixes the second cut in the wire).
with a factory M/T there is a jumper wire inline fixing this second cut in the wire, with the clutch pushed in that switch fixes the first cut.
with a factory auto tranny there is a jumper wire in place of the first cut, and with the A/T in P or N it fixes the second. try that out. i just did this whole wire maze on a 95 f150.
find the main harness in the dash that runs throught the dash from the engine bay. this factory made harness has both hookups for the auto and manual tranny. the electrical plug off of this harness that goes to the clutch interlock on the mast cyl has a plug in it "tricking" the system that the clutch is pushed in (so that the wire has continuity to the next plug inline to the starter relay). in the haynes manual on page 12-15 it is referred to as the clutch start switch. this next plug inline in the factory main harness to the starter relay is for the auto tranny switch (the one that makes the circuit complete when in N or P) he needs to find this auto tranny switch and jumper this wire so that the starter relay will allow the starter to turn the motor over.
hope this helps i know it is kind of confusing, just think of it as a wire with 2spots on the wire that are cut causing no signal from one side to the other. one cut in the wire is the M/T switch on the clutch (so when pushed in it fixes the cut in the wire) the second cut in the wire is the auto tranny switch (when in N or P it fixes the second cut in the wire).
with a factory M/T there is a jumper wire inline fixing this second cut in the wire, with the clutch pushed in that switch fixes the first cut.
with a factory auto tranny there is a jumper wire in place of the first cut, and with the A/T in P or N it fixes the second. try that out. i just did this whole wire maze on a 95 f150.
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Awesome. That worked. Have another dilema. Will post new thread, but if you have any ideas, won't go in to reverse. This transmission was given to him, and he was gonna buy a used one that mimicked the same issues, so he figured it was something in the design. Moves through all gears, just wont go to rvs.
#10
Is the stick hitting the floor pan? I think the floor pan cutout for the automatic and 5 speed are different. If he put a boot over the hole, he needs to remove it and check for interference. Also, since the reverse is a straight cut gear, the vehicle needs to rock a little sometimes. Let off the parking brake and have someone lightly rock the truck and try putting it into reverse. That should do it.
Congratulations on the swap.
Congratulations on the swap.
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Check the condition of the shifter seat and bushing.
I lent my truck to a friend, and when I got it back I completly lost reverse and 5th.
The only way I could get them to work was to twist the shifter clockwise, then it would click in.
I bought the marlin crawler shifter seat and bushing and that 100% fixed that issue.
Also, try letting the clutch out SLOWLEY and see if it will "pop" into reverse. Like "SeaIRescue" mentioned, reverse is a straight cut gear, sometimes you need to roll back/forward or let the clutch out a little for it to set in properly.
I lent my truck to a friend, and when I got it back I completly lost reverse and 5th.
The only way I could get them to work was to twist the shifter clockwise, then it would click in.
I bought the marlin crawler shifter seat and bushing and that 100% fixed that issue.
Also, try letting the clutch out SLOWLEY and see if it will "pop" into reverse. Like "SeaIRescue" mentioned, reverse is a straight cut gear, sometimes you need to roll back/forward or let the clutch out a little for it to set in properly.
Last edited by Jay351; 03-16-2008 at 02:18 PM.
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we are back at it again. had to pull the transmission again. took the shifter off. can run through all the gears, just wont go in to reverse still. have done everything short of pulling apart. not sure if we should take on the task. have downloaded a manual, but unsure of any precautions. just shows disassembly proceedures. HELP!!!!
#16
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Have you tried putting it in reverse with the engine running & slowly letting out on the clutch while pushing the stick toward the reverse position?
Someone above mentioned this but didn't mention to have the engine running (might work, might not)
Someone above mentioned this but didn't mention to have the engine running (might work, might not)
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Yes. Tried rocking it also. It just doesnt seem to want to go. Just removed it again and tried a new shifter thinking that may be it, but it just wont go. ??? We are losing our minds on this one. The bad thing is that this transmission was given to us and just found out that he was unsure if it worked before he got it. NICE!
#18
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Even if reverse is out it should grind unless the synchro is shot...I'm not even sure if Toyota transmission use synchros to tell you the truth. Maybe a bad bushing?