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The outer oil seal between the t-case and driveshaft (going to the front differential) is leaking. Interestingly enough, I had just replaced the fluids in the t-case and added a proportionate amount AT-205 stop leak as a preventative, and now it's leaking.. I'm not sure if it caused it or if the seal was on its way out.
Anyways, to replace the seal I need to remove the bolts off the flange (see below). Problem is accessing these bolts.. it seems removing the crossmember is necessary, since there isn't enough room to get a socket on there. My question is, can I remove the crossmember without causing problems? My concern is that it looks like it is supporting the transmission and t-case. I don't want to remove it and then have those fall on me or create other problems. I think these nuts are really tight so I hope with long enough wrenches I can break them loose. Any advice is appreciated.
Yes, you should support the tranny and case when dropping crossmember.
What seal are you using as replacement?
I'm guessing a jack is the best way to do that?
I got a replacement seal from Napa. I'm also replacing the oil seal at the other end to the front diff. That one is more accessible, but the flange bolts are still super tight. For that one I got the seal from the dealership.
Yes just support the trans with a jack wherever it isn't in the way. I just went through removing/installing my trans a couple times and did it just like this. I even put the jack under the trans oil pan and it held up fine. Put slight pressure with the jack, undo the crossmember bolts and remove it. There are also 2 12mm bolts connecting the crossmember to the trans that you access inside the holes in the middle of the crossmember, need to take those out too.
Yes just support the trans with a jack wherever it isn't in the way. I just went through removing/installing my trans a couple times and did it just like this. I even put the jack under the trans oil pan and it held up fine. Put slight pressure with the jack, undo the crossmember bolts and remove it. There are also 2 12mm bolts connecting the crossmember to the trans that you access inside the holes in the middle of the crossmember, need to take those out too.
Thanks for the info. How was getting these flange bolts off for you in that process? Also, impressive that you were able to remove/install the trans. Did you just figure out how to do it or do you have training as a tech?
Thanks for the info. How was getting these flange bolts off for you in that process? Also, impressive that you were able to remove/install the trans. Did you just figure out how to do it or do you have training as a tech?
That flange is a bit of a pain but it becomes way easier once the crossmember is out of the way. I don't really remember if I removed the propeller shaft first or the top half of the flange first, you'll probably just have to play with it to see what works. A swivel socket comes in handy.
Ha no tech training at all. Lots of forums and videos. It was actually part of an engine swap. I had to pull engines both from my truck and the donor so I tried a couple different methods, on mine I removed the engine and trans as a unit.
Update -- I was able to get these bolts off without taking off the crossbeam. I used a 3/8 wobble extension and impact wrench. I used 3/8 because the socket is smaller than 1/2, which allows it get onto the bolt despite the lack of space. The wobble extension also helped with the space issue, allowing to get in there at an angle. I heated the nuts up first with a propane torch for good measure then blasted them off.
Note that the nuts come off but the bolts stay in the flange. They are more like studs. From what I've read you can get them out, but it's a lot of work and I didn't see the point, other than making separating the driveshaft from the flange a bit easier.
I replaced the leaking t-case seal with one from the dealership. It was about the same price as one from Autozone. Fortunately, the seal is not that difficult to get in. I put it in the freezer for a few hours and was able to drive it in with a large socket fairly easily. It needs to be driven in to be flush with the t-case. Then I put the staked nut back on to where it was before, and restaked it.
When reinstalling the flange bolts, I used a chain to keep the flange from spinning so I could torque them down. So far so good, no more leaks
08-28-2020, 10:38 PM
