Chutchman

10 seconds is a long time for the clutch to slip at full clamping pressure. That would generate a tremendous amount of heat w/o lubrication. Either way you are going to have to have the tranny dropped. Might as well replace the tranny seal, clutch and rear main while you are in there.

Matt90V6SR5

7hrs x 50 an hr is 350$ plus parts....yikes.My 4Runner is a 4x4,so at least 6 or 700$ on cost?

betelnut

Whoa, only $50/hour? NICE!!! The folks here in Austin cost at least twice that.

For $50/hour, I might stop doing the work myself and take it in!

Whenever I get a new vehicle, I always spend several sessions fixing what the last mechanic screwed up. Actually, the Toyota hasn't been bad so far....

Matt90V6SR5

Maybe Im to conservative on my hourly rate.lol...probably more like 65hr.

Teuf

The clutch i could not have done myself, The cyl head i tackled, man i saved a bundle.

annoyingrob

If you've never done a clutch job before, I recommend trying it. It's a little daunting, with a bunch of heavy lifting, but it's by no means hard. Remove the drive shafts, and shifters, unbolt the bellhousing from the engine, stick jack under transmission, unbolt transmission crossmember, pull transmission back off of engine, and lower. I recommend doing it over a weekend with a friend, but you CAN do it by yourself (it's hard though). Seriously, it's a great project to get yourself dirty with. It's more of a "Move stuff around, and it will work out fine" sort of job rather than a "I better do this perfectly or I'll blow up my motor" sort of job.


I ran a Centerforce dual friction in my Supra for a season, and I was impressed with it. It handled abuse at the strip better than anything I've driven, and still engaged stock like. It wore a little too quick for my tastes, but that's due to my driving habits more than the clutch. The DF has one face of organic compound and another of ceramic, giving you the best of both worlds. As for a heavier flywheel, could someone explain to me why this would benefit a dd/offroading truck?

abecedarian

before you worry about replacing the clutch, verify that the pedal height and such is adjusted properly. find the FSM for your vehicle.

rusche

Go 25-35, put it in 5th gear, and stomp it. If she revs, your clutch is bad.
Clutch job is a piece of cake in these rigs. I'm sure a do-it-yourselfer could handle it with the right tools

Matt90V6SR5

Thanks for all the input guys.Looks like a Marlin clutch + a stock flywheel(per Gnarls).Where I live right now is a no-go on doing it myself.Interestingly enough today I drove my *ss off and the clutch/tranny did great but Im getting it checked out regardless.I will look into the clutch pedal adjustment.I hope its something simple,I was planning on buying some Duratracs next week.My tires have some tread but are dry rotting.Thanks everyone!

fierohink

@teuf

Now I know I'm a little skewed by being a mechanic now for a decade, but if you tackled a Headgasket, which has a lot of intricate parts to reassemble , why not do a clutch job? There isn't anything complex there. Just heavy components. Drop the drive shafts, drop the cross member, split the trans and transfer if it's too heavy as one piece, remove trans, remove clutch, reassemble.

There are no settings to swapping out a clutch, no timing to redo, no tolerances to really be concerned about. Just torque the pressure plate to spec and the rest can be blasted together with an impact gun... well except for the driveshafts impact guns don't fit very well.

Teuf

MMMM well at the time (91) my studio / Garage was tied up with photo eguip and setup, It was worth having stealership do it, as much as i hated to go that rout i did.